Oh there is definitely interest from yours truly in the door cards and center console...how are you mounting your door interior handles? Or did you remove them? Need to know what to do with mine as I removed my door cards and hate the ziptie fix.
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S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs
- Thread starterhoneybadger
- Start date
Modified GT350 called the Honey Badger
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- Thread starter
- #822
I had two separate pull tabs in the previous config.
For the carbon door, I plan to do copy this approach except I'll do a black door pull and a red release
For the carbon door, I plan to do copy this approach except I'll do a black door pull and a red release
- Thread starter
- #823
okay - inbetween the like 80 coats of epoxy, filler, glazing putty, and the like for the door fitment, I am tackling a sidequest on the sway bars
As a refresher, I am putting some Genesis Blades on the car so I can easily adjust it. In my sim setup, i've gotten really used to adjusting brake bias and sway bars throughout a stint or track to track and I'd like to bring that flexibility to the real car. Total overkill - but trying to make my days easier. I'm often a one man show and the less the easier it is to optimize setup, the less stress for me.
Okay, so enough justification for the ridiculous investment in bars. Here's my starter pack for the front bar. 1.25" OD chromoly torsion bar (.120 wall), two barrels, 2 inner bearings, 2 outer bearings, 2 genesis blades, and the adjustment tabs. I'll need a cable in the future for adjustment, but waiting until I figure out how I want to adjust in the car. More on that later.
Close up of how the parts go to together
The tab screws into the end of the blade and a push/pull cable rotates it. Vertical for full stiff, flat for full soft.
So this is where I have a question for our resident fabrication expert, @Fabman - my rear bar is smaller. 1" OD with only .085 wall to hit my torsion target. That's a bit thin on the wall, so I bought some 7/8 OD 0.120 wall and turned it down in my mini lathe to act as a slug and up the thickness in that area. My plan was to have (4) plug welds to handle the torsion loads t then use a hole saw to "notch" the now thicker end and then weld to the barrel. Does this sound reasonable?
Imagine notched tube end after welding. I was planing on doing a root pass and then second to flush it out and widen it a bit. thoughts?
As a refresher, I am putting some Genesis Blades on the car so I can easily adjust it. In my sim setup, i've gotten really used to adjusting brake bias and sway bars throughout a stint or track to track and I'd like to bring that flexibility to the real car. Total overkill - but trying to make my days easier. I'm often a one man show and the less the easier it is to optimize setup, the less stress for me.
Okay, so enough justification for the ridiculous investment in bars. Here's my starter pack for the front bar. 1.25" OD chromoly torsion bar (.120 wall), two barrels, 2 inner bearings, 2 outer bearings, 2 genesis blades, and the adjustment tabs. I'll need a cable in the future for adjustment, but waiting until I figure out how I want to adjust in the car. More on that later.
Close up of how the parts go to together
The tab screws into the end of the blade and a push/pull cable rotates it. Vertical for full stiff, flat for full soft.
So this is where I have a question for our resident fabrication expert, @Fabman - my rear bar is smaller. 1" OD with only .085 wall to hit my torsion target. That's a bit thin on the wall, so I bought some 7/8 OD 0.120 wall and turned it down in my mini lathe to act as a slug and up the thickness in that area. My plan was to have (4) plug welds to handle the torsion loads t then use a hole saw to "notch" the now thicker end and then weld to the barrel. Does this sound reasonable?
Imagine notched tube end after welding. I was planing on doing a root pass and then second to flush it out and widen it a bit. thoughts?
See attached, mine was made buy a guy who supplied parts for our Group A touring cars. This was a version for my 944.
It has one fixed end and one blade end. The fixed end was keyed and had hole adjustment as well. Easily swap or exchange damaged ends. One end of the torsion tube also had location collars to stop it walking.
It was setup without in car adjustment. Easily changed by exchanging the notched end cap for a lever type.
It has one fixed end and one blade end. The fixed end was keyed and had hole adjustment as well. Easily swap or exchange damaged ends. One end of the torsion tube also had location collars to stop it walking.
It was setup without in car adjustment. Easily changed by exchanging the notched end cap for a lever type.
Last edited:
Fabman
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I'm a little confused....I see that you plan to use a slug in the end of the tube and then weld it to the collar and use plug welds which is fine.
However, do you plan to weld the center piece to the collar first and then slip the outer tube over it and plug weld the center to the outer and then to the collar?
Also, when I have made sway bars from scratch in the past (solid bars that had to be bent for fitment) I have used 4140 condition "N" for "normalized".
If the alloy is full hard you could end up with embrittlement in the heat affected zones and have the part snap next to the welds. Watch your heat input, this is critical.
Might wanna look this procedure up as I am not an expert with Chrome moly.
- Thread starter
- #826
Still need to clean it up and throw a coat of matte clear on it, but sneak peek. going to be sick, i think
I have such a love-hate relationship with composites. It's sooooo much work. Like 40 working hours to get to this point. But then you hold the finished product and you go "oh, yeah. that's why." weighs like 2lbs if that.
I have such a love-hate relationship with composites. It's sooooo much work. Like 40 working hours to get to this point. But then you hold the finished product and you go "oh, yeah. that's why." weighs like 2lbs if that.
Very pretty.
Absolutely amazed at the amount and breadth of skills you have amassed. Do you ever sleep caus you seem to be constantly turning stuff out.
And YES it will be SICK caus YOU made it.
Absolutely amazed at the amount and breadth of skills you have amassed. Do you ever sleep caus you seem to be constantly turning stuff out.
And YES it will be SICK caus YOU made it.
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