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Chassis Swapped Boss 302

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Is it just me or do the pics of cylinder #8 look more reddish than the other pics, especially the valves?

Glad to hear the tuning is working out. Good lock!
 
Is it just me or do the pics of cylinder #8 look more reddish than the other pics, especially the valves?

Glad to hear the tuning is working out. Good lock!
Yessir, it does. I asked AI about this (so who knows if it's right or not!) and it said that it's because of the known characteristics about cylinder 8 getting less cooling etc. So it burns off more crud (cyl 8 is also cleaner than the others) but it gets more wear. Dunno if this is right or not, but it seems to make sense...
 
Lund's take on adding Marvel Mystery oil/2-cycle oil to e85: unnecessary.

One of those things where opinions vary I guess. Shaun is a smart guy and he's usually right. But Lund is my tuner. Ya gotta trust your tuner, right? I think I'll skip it.
 
Lund's take on adding Marvel Mystery oil/2-cycle oil to e85: unnecessary.

One of those things where opinions vary I guess. Shaun is a smart guy and he's usually right. But Lund is my tuner. Ya gotta trust your tuner, right? I think I'll skip it.
I was thinking it was more to seal the engine up, not an actual lubricant
 
This was Lund's response to my question as to whether or not it would be a good idea to consider a fueling upgrade due to running e85:

That is normal on the Gen1 cars. The fuel pump duty cycle PID is inferred/scaled from the commanded fuel pump operation, so seeing it near the top under WOT does not mean the fuel pump is actually at the top of its flow capacity. Basically the PCM sends the fuel pump control module a command, and the module doubles that command to determine pump output. Ford lists 37% PCM command as normal low speed and 47% as normal high speed

FP duty cycle is inferred on these Like I said and Its not leaning out . If anything its a little rich at WOT due to fuel mixture ( from at least what I last looked at) so you are fine man . The 13-14 Shelby guys say the same thing and its all inferred data so it looks odd to the eye

So I guess I'm all good for now!
 
Ahh the famous hunt for false knock!! What fun!!. Have had this several times. Especially with custom 3" exhaust etc. All it takes is a little knock anywhere on the exhaust of headers to get the signal send straight to the sensors. You will not hear it with the engine going. Just get under the car and wrestle with the piping to try to get a rattle or use a rubber mallet. We got rid of the exhaust tubes going over the axle for this reason. Just went straight out under the axle. AS BS mentioned it can be a 10mm socket stuck somewhere under the intake manifold but in our case it was always the exhaust. On the log graphs, false knock usually looks very rectangular compared to real knock, as its succinct individual events instead of a series of rapid mini explosions. happy hunting!
 
So -- AI is telling me that it's neigh impossible that it's real knock now that I'm running e85. Although, when pressed it will admit that oil getting into the cylinders is one of the scenarios that could cause it. Should I desensitize the knock sensors? AI is telling me that it can be done so that they're only desensitized at WOT and during a specified RPM range... I've always heard before that we should NEVER do this. This particular AI's theory right now is that the knock is piston slap caused by my older engine (the scoring). I'm thinking that I probably should not do this, but I could just ask for the revision and keep it in my back pocket for when it might be useful...
 
"Should I desensitize the knock sensors?" Noooo!!..... please don't. Try to find the false knock, but don't assume its not real! It just takes a little to long to kill the Coyote. Can you show a graph of your knock??

When I had a tune from Lund, they told me to go and drive and forget about looking at the logs.... I melted a hole in my headers about 1.5" wide. After, when I logged the engine for Shaun at AED, he made me find and fix the knock before he would tune anything.
 
"Should I desensitize the knock sensors?" Noooo!!..... please don't. Try to find the false knock, but don't assume its not real! It just takes a little to long to kill the Coyote. Can you show a graph of your knock??

When I had a tune from Lund, they told me to go and drive and forget about looking at the logs.... I melted a hole in my headers about 1.5" wide. After, when I logged the engine for Shaun at AED, he made me find and fix the knock before he would tune anything.
Roger that! I won't do it :)

Personally I don't think I'm exactly BANNED from AED. But Shaun said he wouldn't tune me until I got the knock and fuel trims fixed... which I'm pretty sure will be never in my case! ... well, never on this engine anyway.

How do you melt a hole in the headers?
 
Here's some juicy e85 knock. 3 degrees at 6500 RPM. 1st spike is 1 degree at 5k RPM.
e85_knock.jpg
My money is still on engine at this point. Piston slap or oil in the cylinders sound like good bets to me. But false knock remains a possibility. This knock shows up on 9/10 of my WOT logs. But every blue moon for no apparent reason I'll get one without knock. There is virtually no knock when not at WOT while driving around. I do get rare spikes but those are likely caused by bumps in the road.

I'm still happy with the e85 mod. Everything just feels smoother.
 
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Yee gads... Thats not looking good. That looks more like real knock.

About the Hole... I think Shaun said the car was trying to keep its self alive by adding more fuel to a bad tune. I found Lund to be much nicer then Shaun to chat with.... But then again I think he tells you what you need to hear, not what you want to hear.

I will look up what happened as it was years ago..
 
Here's some juicy e85 knock. 3 degrees at 6500 RPM. 1st spike is 1 degree at 5k RPM.
View attachment 112193
My money is still on engine at this point. Piston slap or oil in the cylinders sound like good bets to me. But false knock remains a possibility. This knock shows up on 9/10 of my WOT logs. But every blue moon for no apparent reason I'll get one without knock. There is virtually no knock when not at WOT while driving around. I do get rare spikes but those are likely caused by bumps in the road.

I'm still happy with the e85 mod. Everything just feels smoother.
I wish I knew how to read this . . . rpm on the vertical axis. What is the horizontal axis? What do the brown and blue lines represent and plot on the graph? I see a knock sensor gauge on the left pegged to the far right hand red zone, but I do not know what any of this means.
 

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