10R80 Automatic Trans Cooling Questions

[blueboss302]

since the pin expands at 190*F, there would be no way to electronically change the setting at which the pin expands. Does anyone know if like a ball valve that opens and closes at certain temps that are for automotive use exist at all?

 

[blueboss302]

@flyhalf Do you think the cooler that you are running now could be swapped out for a smaller one to heat up the fluid a little bit more? I noticed that you mentioned that you would like to be at 160*F minimum and I agree with that. My ideal trans temps would be between 170*F-220*F absolute max. From the research that I have done, the 6r80 and 10r80 were designed to run hot and if they were designed that way, then the assumption is that they would be most efficient around 190*F

 

[flyhalf]

@flyhalf Do you think the cooler that you are running now could be swapped out for a smaller one to heat up the fluid a little bit more? I noticed that you mentioned that you would like to be at 160*F minimum and I agree with that. My ideal trans temps would be between 170*F-220*F absolute max. From the research that I have done, the 6r80 and 10r80 were designed to run hot and if they were designed that way, then the assumption is that they would be most efficient around 190*F

Define Hot lol. Both stop to work after 230 so not that hot.
There is an easy solution.
External thermostat.
IMPROVED RACING has one.
Different options for opening 140 160 180
And still allow 10% flow even when close.
So you make a bypass on the trans and add this
Check that!

 

[blueboss302]

Define Hot lol. Both stop to work after 230 so not that hot.
There is an easy solution.
External thermostat.
IMPROVED RACING has one.
Different options for opening 140 160 180
And still allow 10% flow even when close.
So you make a bypass on the trans and add this
Check that!

Well, I mean the oem fluid expands with heat and they have it setup for the thermostatic bypass to open at 190* which I would assume the fluid is a a certain viscosity and thinner (10r80 even thinner) than when cold for the seals and parts on the lead frame to work properly. From what I read, there is something like 150-250 psi inside the trans when shifting gears. excuse my lack of vocabulary as I'm not an expert obviously lol.

 

[blueboss302]

Define Hot lol. Both stop to work after 230 so not that hot.
There is an easy solution.
External thermostat.
IMPROVED RACING has one.
Different options for opening 140 160 180
And still allow 10% flow even when close.
So you make a bypass on the trans and add this
Check that!

High-Flow Engine & Transmission Oil Cooler Thermostat

Improved Racing's Flow Series Motor Sport (FSM) oil thermostat is a universal solution that can be used with any oil cooler on any vehicle or industrial application flowing up to 20 GPM (75.71 LPM). Trusted by professional race teams, OEM's, and military contractors. Accelerates fluid warmup...

www.improvedracing.com

That is nice, I was hoping something like this would exist. I think This would solve a lot of your issues and potentially mine as well. Would you personally mount it right off the trans or right next to the cooler?

 

[blueboss302]

Ford Tuning - Transmission

This is the hp tuners website, specifically their ford transmission tuning section. lots of great info in there as well. I don't know if its ok to post this link, but if its not Please remove it mods. I would really like to learn about the shifting table and whatnot, but right now I just don't have the time to do all of that research. Probably in a few months I will have more time.

 

[blueboss302]

@flyhalf I was also curious how you go about checking your trans fluid levels. as you already know the fluid level is checked when the thermostatic bypass opens up and all the fluid is cycling through the cooler and at 190*F. And since the fluid expands, its going to be at a higher level than when at 120*F.

 

[flyhalf]

@flyhalf I was also curious how you go about checking your trans fluid levels. as you already know the fluid level is checked when the thermostatic bypass opens up and all the fluid is cycling through the cooler and at 190*F. And since the fluid expands, its going to be at a higher level than when at 120*F.

Because is 24 7 open the level is actually more "real " with the bypass cause is already circulating.

 

[Ronzer]

So I took my new 10-speed Dark Horse to the track for the first time, didn't push it that hard and had transmission cooling issues. After 6 laps at Buttonwillow Raceway the transmission oil got to 280F when it was 65F outside.

I got a quote from Power By The Hour Performance for one of their cooler kits:

PBH Transmission Cooler Kit – Power By The Hour

pbhperformance.com

@flyhalf think that would help?

 

[GTP]

So I took my new 10-speed Dark Horse to the track for the first time, didn't push it that hard and had transmission cooling issues. After 6 laps at Buttonwillow Raceway the transmission oil got to 280F when it was 65F outside.

I got a quote from Power By The Hour Performance for one of their cooler kits:

PBH Transmission Cooler Kit – Power By The Hour

pbhperformance.com

@flyhalf think that would help?

Before I post a ridiculous response please describe the OEM setup for us.

 

[flyhalf]

So I took my new 10-speed Dark Horse to the track for the first time, didn't push it that hard and had transmission cooling issues. After 6 laps at Buttonwillow Raceway the transmission oil got to 280F when it was 65F outside.

I got a quote from Power By The Hour Performance for one of their cooler kits:

PBH Transmission Cooler Kit – Power By The Hour

pbhperformance.com

@flyhalf think that would help?

No. At least not only. You already have a cooler that works well. I forgot to answer you. Sorry
You can get my trans thermostat bypass.
I think will fix 90% ot your problem. But it is never been tested on a dark horse yet.

Also the dark horse has a different system than previous one. Basically it has a water to oil pre cooler tank. Many believe is an additional cooler. I actually believe is the opposite. It does warm up the oil
That cooler is slightly bigger than your oem. Nothing that will change anything.
If it was mine :
Bypass first . Then way bigger cooler after. With a "thought" on how to remove the boiler that is before the cooler.
We can keep chatting viw text if you need

Let ne add. Is so freaking sad to see dark horse with that issue.

 

[Ronzer]

Following up. @flyhalf has been very helpful but I'm still having issues. His trans thermostat bypass doesn't fit the DH but we were able to modify the existing trans thermostat to always stay open to achieve the same result. I went to the track again and my DH would start to overheat the transmission fluid around lap 5 at Sonoma Raceway across multiple sessions.

Next I'm considering:

1. @flyhalf Suggests trying to bypass the water to oil pre cooler ("boiler") tank, I've been able to find very little info about it
2. Add the transmission radiator from the manual DH in series to the existing auto radiator, GM did the same thing on the auto C7
3. Replace the existing radiator (which is already pretty big) with a Misimoto, they don't have bolt-in for the DH yet so I'd have to try a universal

 

[Mad Hatter]

@flyhalf as our 10R80 pioneer, in the end did you get your transmission to stay cool for a 20min plus track session?

 

[flyhalf]

I did

 

[Mad Hatter]

Thats good to hear!!

 

[seekerofgts550]

I'm wondering if anyone has found a perfect mix of coolers and thermostat choice for a street car that needs to get up to proper temperature and yet not overheat at the track for 30min HPDE sessions?

@flyhalf @lil'zeus @Theflyingz I can see in this and other threads that you guys came up with different coolers and solutions to same problem, not sure if those solutions allow the cars to reach proper operating temps at the street? I understand the harder you drive the car on the track, the more cooling you need. Is the idea to fit the biggest cooler you can find either the 948 or Derale 40 row one and get a thermostat set at 180 or 200 and see if that works? This is also assuming that the transmission valvebody bypass is installed. I wouldn't want to overcool the transmission.

 

[1 old racer]

Check this out.

10r80 custom thermostatic valve and cooler lines

Hi Everyone, Skip to "The Project" below for the why, the how and the actual project. I want to start by saying that I have learned a great deal through this forum and its members, so thank you to all who have provided information along the way. I would not have been able to start this, or...

www.mustang6g.com

 

[flyhalf]

Assuming we talk about

I'm wondering if anyone has found a perfect mix of coolers and thermostat choice for a street car that needs to get up to proper temperature and yet not overheat at the track for 30min HPDE sessions?

@flyhalf @lil'zeus @Theflyingz I can see in this and other threads that you guys came up with different coolers and solutions to same problem, not sure if those solutions allow the cars to reach proper operating temps at the street? I understand the harder you drive the car on the track, the more cooling you need. Is the idea to fit the biggest cooler you can find either the 948 or Derale 40 row one and get a thermostat set at 180 or 200 and see if that works? This is also assuming that the transmission valvebody bypass is installed. I wouldn't want to overcool the transmission.

Hey. So.
The way it worked for me was :
Setrab 640 and Thermostat bypass (find it at SPEEDITALIARACING.COM ~30$ )
This allowed great heat management.
I had no issue pushing the car to the limit like I do
And when daily driving I would just tape the inlet so can warm up more.

Im now going to try (in 10days) and external
Thermostat that opens at 135f with 2 trans coolers. One 640. One 634.
The idea is to do w2w. Im not convinced with the 130f thermostat but we will see.

 

[Theflyingz]

I'm wondering if anyone has found a perfect mix of coolers and thermostat choice for a street car that needs to get up to proper temperature and yet not overheat at the track for 30min HPDE sessions?

@flyhalf @lil'zeus @Theflyingz I can see in this and other threads that you guys came up with different coolers and solutions to same problem, not sure if those solutions allow the cars to reach proper operating temps at the street? I understand the harder you drive the car on the track, the more cooling you need. Is the idea to fit the biggest cooler you can find either the 948 or Derale 40 row one and get a thermostat set at 180 or 200 and see if that works? This is also assuming that the transmission valvebody bypass is installed. I wouldn't want to overcool the transmission.

Hello, I did not do a valve body bypass or change the thermostat on my car. I did do a Lund tune on the motor and trans, which helped the shifting smooth out and might have done some additional programming. My car and cooler have not had any issues with HPDE or street driving. On track the trans has not gotten above 220 with 20+ minutes on track. On the street it might run slightly on the cooler side but the thermostat manages that. I did add a large oil cooler and I think that helped to pull a lot of heat away from the engine, which helps the trans as well. Next is hood vents for more cooling.

 

[GTP]

My trans used to get up to 230 on track. I added a second OEM trans cooler in series to the first and now my temp is 215 steady. I only did that because "why not" instead of overheating. More photos are over at 6g under my same UN. Make sure your fluid level is correct!