Instruction on removing by lifting body. Looking for tutorial videos and/or detailed steps/instructions. Is this method preferred over using a picker ? With all the technology stuffed in engine bay, I would hate to create/cause damage by pulling from top. Can anyone help a brother out?
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2013 Boss 302 engine removal
- Thread starterjimmybana
- Start date
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A few TMO members have a lot of experience removing engines. I’m sure they’ll be along shortly. Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks, with late model cars this just appears to be the preferred method. Searched the internet but, no luck with step by step process. One video on GT 350 was done in less 3 minutes with rolling pictures, no explanation. In this one the engine dropped with out front suspension ? I've see on TV where the whole K-member was rolled out with engine & front suspension attached. Not sure if that's just TV - Land ?
I removed it by lifting the body off of it. Disconnecting all the wiring harnesses from their connection to the body and tucking them out of the way is one area you to need to pay attention to. Take close up pictures of everything so you know how they are routed.
Also, disconnect the steering column. At the very least at the bottom knuckle. When I reinstalled the engine with Kooks Shorties, I ended up disconnecting it from the top knuckle too so you may want to do that up front. Just make sure the steering wheel is locked in place so its not moved while your're working on the car. Technically, the bolts are one-time-use so order them ahead of time or make sure you use Lock-tite when puting them back in. I had to push the telescoping portion out a bit through the firewall from the drivers seat side to line everything up when I put it back together.
Despite having the Ford Performance Radiator, I did not need to remove the radiator, etc. Although you should remove the radiator fan and coolant expansion tank.
I marked around the outline of the K-member to assist in aligning it again afterwards. I'm not sure that helped much because there didn't seeem to be any ability to shift it around when reassembling.
I disconnected the ball joints and tie-rod ends to avoid having to disconnect the calipers and to have less "stuff" in the way when working on the engine. But if I had to do it over, I'd disconnect the calipers and struts. There are less one-time bolts/nuts to replace that way. Either way you'll need an alignment.
Note that the O2 sensors and transmission linkage are also held to the trans tunnel by some plastic fasteners. Once you drop the engine and trans combo a few inches you can reach up and disconnet. You may need to use one of those trip clip fastener pliers that spread the surfaces apart to make it easier.
My friend had a homemade heavy welding table on wheels that we used to hold the engine. I just used some 1x3 wood strips under the k-member to keep the oil pan off the table and a block of wood under the transmission cross member. I was only changing the cams, timing gear, oil pump and manifold so I basically just worked on it as it sat - but wheeled it out from under the car.
If you don't have a table like that I've heard some people use stacks of pallets. If you do, then either get a pair of the cheap Harbor Freight dollies to stack them on or attach casters on the bottom pallet.
As your lifting the car off, stop the lift every 1 or 2 inches and look all the way around to make sure nothing is caught. Having a buddy really makes this go faster.
If you're removing the engine and the trans as a unit, coming out from below must be easier since you don't have to worry about angling the combo up and out.
Good luck.
Also, disconnect the steering column. At the very least at the bottom knuckle. When I reinstalled the engine with Kooks Shorties, I ended up disconnecting it from the top knuckle too so you may want to do that up front. Just make sure the steering wheel is locked in place so its not moved while your're working on the car. Technically, the bolts are one-time-use so order them ahead of time or make sure you use Lock-tite when puting them back in. I had to push the telescoping portion out a bit through the firewall from the drivers seat side to line everything up when I put it back together.
Despite having the Ford Performance Radiator, I did not need to remove the radiator, etc. Although you should remove the radiator fan and coolant expansion tank.
I marked around the outline of the K-member to assist in aligning it again afterwards. I'm not sure that helped much because there didn't seeem to be any ability to shift it around when reassembling.
I disconnected the ball joints and tie-rod ends to avoid having to disconnect the calipers and to have less "stuff" in the way when working on the engine. But if I had to do it over, I'd disconnect the calipers and struts. There are less one-time bolts/nuts to replace that way. Either way you'll need an alignment.
Note that the O2 sensors and transmission linkage are also held to the trans tunnel by some plastic fasteners. Once you drop the engine and trans combo a few inches you can reach up and disconnet. You may need to use one of those trip clip fastener pliers that spread the surfaces apart to make it easier.
My friend had a homemade heavy welding table on wheels that we used to hold the engine. I just used some 1x3 wood strips under the k-member to keep the oil pan off the table and a block of wood under the transmission cross member. I was only changing the cams, timing gear, oil pump and manifold so I basically just worked on it as it sat - but wheeled it out from under the car.
If you don't have a table like that I've heard some people use stacks of pallets. If you do, then either get a pair of the cheap Harbor Freight dollies to stack them on or attach casters on the bottom pallet.
As your lifting the car off, stop the lift every 1 or 2 inches and look all the way around to make sure nothing is caught. Having a buddy really makes this go faster.
If you're removing the engine and the trans as a unit, coming out from below must be easier since you don't have to worry about angling the combo up and out.
Good luck.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #5
It looks more intimidating than it is. The wiring harnesses actually disconnect fairly easily from the terminal by the radiator and fuse box.
The connections on and around the valve covers are actually more of a pain. Not difficult but just lots more. But that's the same no matter which way you pull the engine.
The connections on and around the valve covers are actually more of a pain. Not difficult but just lots more. But that's the same no matter which way you pull the engine.
- 899
- 561
A lift, stack of pallets, or a heavy-duty furniture dolly really helps. The the first time I dropped my engine an transmission, I used a stack of pallets below the lift. But, without casters, repositioning the K-member was difficult. I know have a large furniture dolly I built out of 2x6 and heavy duty casters. It works much better when trying to reposition the K-member with the engine and transmission. It allows you to move the whole assembly around as you drop the body back on top.
- Thread starter
- #9
It's a lot of work but it's not particularly difficult. Having the stuff to be able to physically handle the subframe w/ engine and trans attached is the biggest deal. On @captdistraction 's car one time we even put the rear wheels up on ~10" tall race ramps, then picked the car up off of the subframe using an engine hoist at the front (using the tow hook on the front racing bumper beam).
captdistraction
GrumpyRacer
I’ve done this method a number of times and it’s by far the safest.
The overall runbook set looks like this:
Put rear wheels on ramps or jack stands on the rear axle, stands set tall up front
Disconnect battery and battery harnesses from vehicle
Disconnect engine harness from ecu and 3 grounds
Disconnect exhaust and driveshaft
Disconnect knuckles from A arms (remove cross bolt from ball joint and tap loose)
Drain radiator and disconnect hoses, evap and fuel line
If you have AC, remove the compressor from engine or evacuate system and disconnect hoses (safely!!)
Now take a couple furniture dolleys and place them under the k member and transmission mount.
Connect an engine picker to the top of the motor and apply light lift, disconnect the z brace and the 8 bolts/nuts that hold the k member to the frame
Drop the k member/drivetrain to the dolly set slowly ensuring nothing is still connected.
Now that the engine is on the ground, determine height needed to roll it out. Using the bumper beam (assuming bumper removed), the engine picker can be used to lift the front of the chassis up enough to roll out the engine.
Don’t get under the car while using a picker to hold it up, apply basic safety techniques etc. however I’ve found this to be the fastest way to get an engine out safely without a dedicated lift. The reverse is the fastest install.
On my racecar I remove the radiator crossmember and have tall enough stands I no longer have to pick up the nose with a picker, just pull the radiator and slide it all out front.
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Forgot to mention that. A long extension to get to the ac manifold makes it pretty easy. But keep a magnet handy since the manifold bolts can easily drop into the knooks and crannies of the K-member/engine mount area.
Afrerwards, make sure you tape over the ends of the lines and the inlet ports to keep dirt and dust out of the system.
And do yourself a favor and install the AC stretch belt (a new one) before you re-install the engine in the car. MUCH easier...
- Thread starter
- #13
Yeah Man ! I'm like a sponge soaking up all this great and detailed information. Soooo many things I didn't even think about until mentioned in these threads. I can't thank all of you enough ! Reminds me of my big brother giving me tips about women but, some of those not so much !
Here's the Ford workshop manual of how to do this, although it looks like they are considering from above removal. http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=831&f=Engine - Manual Transmission.pdf
It will at least give you a good idea of what to do to prep/disconnect.
It will at least give you a good idea of what to do to prep/disconnect.
And here is a photo of the aforementioned "lift the front" technique.
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks ! Hey man, just noticed my 2 year anniversary with TMO in 4 days... PayPal donations for "Betty Boop's" implant will be appreciated. My car's name - '13 Boss LS. Only joshing, who has extra cash not being spent on our ladies. Right ! I do have to mention, the pics sent are some Bad Ass Blue Ovals or as I say - BABO
Tips or not you'll spend a lot less money on the cars then on the women....
- Thread starter
- #18
If it’s got tits or tires, it’s expensive regardless.
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