The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!
orangesto-87.JPEG

S550 2017 Mustang GT Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

I bought this car in 2020 and have slowly turned it into a track focused car. I started tracking it in 2022 with it mostly bone stock (maybe springs and exhaust), and caught the bug like many others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Update to my summer setup: The car felt amazing at Inde, honestly i was surprised and felt like i left the weekend not getting the max out of it and kinda disappointed in myself, but with a big "but"....the tires were rubbing in a couple different spots, mainly on the rear with my old rear ride height adjustment at max height and on spring collar on the strut. The real problem is im using 295/40/18 tires because I wanted to keep the gearing consistent when I think in the future I should use the 295/30/18 for the short sidewall and clearance, and adapt to the shorter gearing. (if only hoosier made the R8 in a 295/35)

I've since gotten the steeda harcore kit to use a coilover spring in that location and can raise height for clearance. Also went from the 14kg/mm spring to a 900lb/in spring. Last weekend I was out at Firebird West (first time there and its a very SLOW short technical track that's easy to overdrive) and it felt like it was on rails yet again. Still barely touching the spring collar and quarter panel lip probably when I hit bumps. might need to go 1 turn higher on all 4 corners and it should be happy.

1 more short track at Firebird east at the end of the month then 2 fun weekends of Chuckwalla and Podium Club back to back in November
 
Can you do a short review of the R8 and compare it to other tires you have used?
In a word: Fast

Before the Hoosiers I ran a Toyo R, and from the drivers seat the Toyo R felt good to me, consistent and smooth breakaway, but the stopwatch never agreed. I ran about the same times that I would run with the Bridgestone RE71's before. The Hoosier needs to be brought up to temp slower but once its there the grip is unreal compared to what I've ran before.

This summer offseason I made the switch to using 2 sets of wheels: a 19x10 LMR/SVE set that were my street wheels now have 295/35/19 RE71RS's that are my tires for HPDE, and the Hoosier R8 is on my 18" Apex wheels for when the stopwatch comes out in Time Attack (I don't want to burn up $2500 rubber in HPDE)

My first weekend running the Hoosiers I was about 3 seconds quicker than the Bridgestones (both brand new stickers) at Inde- a 2.75 mile track (1:55 vs 1:58). This past weekend they were about 2 seconds quicker than the RE71's at a short 1.1mile track(1:04 vs 1:06) before the rain came
 
Installed the KPM 800hp fuel pump. Just did a simple drop in and go. The car acts and feels the same, AFR's are all the same. STFT's are pretty far negative as I think it's supplying more fuel than its expecting, but KPM told me over several drive cycles it should learn and adjust.
I'm late to the party but how hard was this install ? I'm thinking of upgrading my pump to a KPM because my local track now has a high speed long left hand corner in which If I'm down on fuel the car starves. Do you think a dealership will be able to do a KPM install ?
 
In a word: Fast

Before the Hoosiers I ran a Toyo R, and from the drivers seat the Toyo R felt good to me, consistent and smooth breakaway, but the stopwatch never agreed. I ran about the same times that I would run with the Bridgestone RE71's before. The Hoosier needs to be brought up to temp slower but once its there the grip is unreal compared to what I've ran before.

This summer offseason I made the switch to using 2 sets of wheels: a 19x10 LMR/SVE set that were my street wheels now have 295/35/19 RE71RS's that are my tires for HPDE, and the Hoosier R8 is on my 18" Apex wheels for when the stopwatch comes out in Time Attack (I don't want to burn up $2500 rubber in HPDE)

My first weekend running the Hoosiers I was about 3 seconds quicker than the Bridgestones (both brand new stickers) at Inde- a 2.75 mile track (1:55 vs 1:58). This past weekend they were about 2 seconds quicker than the RE71's at a short 1.1mile track(1:04 vs 1:06) before the rain came
That sounds very close to the time difference of moving from track tires to racing slicks.
 
I'm late to the party but how hard was this install ? I'm thinking of upgrading my pump to a KPM because my local track now has a high speed long left hand corner in which If I'm down on fuel the car starves. Do you think a dealership will be able to do a KPM install ?
It's an easy DIY project, get the lock-ring tool, it's a life saver and makes the job a breeze. Run a dedicated filter, KPM offers their own plug-N-play model but I opted for a larger Radium 6-micron glass-fiber filter to better protect the direct injection system used on Gen 3 Coyote. If you're not comfortable with the DIY approach, a dealer or independent shop could easily do it, like any OEM install, just be sure to have a near-empty tank so they don't make a mess removing the old pump.
 
It's an easy DIY project, get the lock-ring tool, it's a life saver and makes the job a breeze. Run a dedicated filter, KPM offers their own plug-N-play model but I opted for a larger Radium 6-micron glass-fiber filter to better protect the direct injection system used on Gen 3 Coyote. If you're not comfortable with the DIY approach, a dealer or independent shop could easily do it, like any OEM install, just be sure to have a near-empty tank so they don't make a mess removing the old pump.
Sadly I'm not very mechanically inclined which is the political way to say that I have 2 left hands. So I just wonder if a Ford Dealership will be able to do that. The near empty tank suggestion is a great one though.
 
I'm late to the party but how hard was this install ? I'm thinking of upgrading my pump to a KPM because my local track now has a high speed long left hand corner in which If I'm down on fuel the car starves. Do you think a dealership will be able to do a KPM install ?
Yes it was easy, have them do a KAM reset too, just tells the car to relearn its fuel trims and take it for a few normal drive cycles.
 
It's an easy job any dealership or independent shop can do. Get KPM's filter, too, so you won't have to plumb and mount a custom system. It can take some finesse and care snaking the new pump into the tank without interference with the float arm but the complete KPM assembly drops right in and all fittings are simple OEM quick-connects.
 

This one is surprisingly detailed as a "how to." Although it appears that he starts with the back seat removed, he clearly shows you how to remove it, which is easier explained with the seat out than with the seat installed, where you cannot see where the clips go into the floor or how the hole in the floor is shaped. By seeing it with the seat removed, and him showing you with his fingers how to push, it is easier to understand what you must do.

Sadly I'm not very mechanically inclined which is the political way to say that I have 2 left hands. So I just wonder if a Ford Dealership will be able to do that. The near empty tank suggestion is a great one though.

Watch the entire video, and then decide. Getting the tool John S. mentioned probably makes it even easier than the screwdriver and hammer method I the video.
 
Last edited:

This one is surprisingly detailed as a "how to." Although it appears that he starts with the back seat removed, he clearly shows you how to remove it, which is easier explained with the seat out than with the seat installed, where you cannot see where the clips go into the floor or how the hole in the floor is shaped. By seeing it with the seat removed, and him showing you with his fingers how to push, it is easier to understand what you must do.



Watch the entire video, and then decide. Getting the tool John S. mentioned probably makes it even easier than the screwdriver and hammer method I the video.
I used this one. Fit perfectly

 
Top