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2018 GT350 light track use questions

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9
11
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Louisiana
Hi all,
I've been lurking around the forum for a bit, but this is my first post.
I just picked up 2018 GT350. Car is stock, from what I can tell. This is my daily driver and plan to do 4-6 HPDE track days/yr and 4-6 autocrosses/yr. I live in south Louisiana (hot and humid). Prior experience is HPDE for past 8 years (2010 Corvette and 2004 Honda S2000). I'm not looking to set any lap records or win any races, just weekend warrior fun. This is my first Ford and looking for any advice.

My plan so far:
  • Steeda Clutch spring
  • Passenger catch can
  • Brake fluid: RBF 600
  • Tranny fluid: Amsoil ATF signature series (blue cap)
  • Diff oil: Amsoil Severe gear 75W-90
  • Before each event, all I do is change engine oil, change street brake pads to track pads, flush brake fluid, and flush clutch fluid (suck out the old fluid in reservoir, replace with clean RBF, pump clutch 15 times, repeat until reservoir fluid is clean ).
  • I change tranny fluid and diff oil yearly.

Questions:
  • Brake pads, need help. These rotors are expensive @ $300/each (the S2000 rotors were $75/each), so I'm looking for a street pad and a track pad that are "rotor friendly". I actually find the stock pads more grabby than I need for the street. Which is fine, but I don't drive aggressively, so all I "need" is a decent street pad that is rotor friendly and won't completely suck at autocross. For track pads, this is the heaviest car I've had, and at NOLA, the turn 1 braking zone goes from 145mph to 55mph. Not sure what pad to run, maybe G-Lock?
  • Is flushing the brake fluid and clutch before very track event over kill?
  • Will my procedure for flushing the clutch fluid work in a GT350?
  • Is changing the tranny fluid and diff oil once a year enough?
  • Everyone says 75W-140 diff oil for track work. Do you think 75W-90 is the right call, given this is a 80-90% street driven car, or should I use 75W-140?
  • Are there any bolts, nuts, clips, etc that need to be replaced after one use (I've seen some stuff about replacing the OEM caliper bolts), or anything weird that I should be aware of ?
  • Anything wrong with my plan above?
  • Anything else?

Thanks!
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,491
5,169
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Yes, turn one at NOLA can be fun.
on my GT350R I ran Pagid pads both on the street and on track. They are pricey. Going to a street pad and separate track pad from a single supplier may be a better solution for you. Contact Tim at OP Mustang or the guys at KNS brakes and discuss your needs. Stay away from drilled rotors, they tend to crack.
I used BG fluid in the trans. Tim also supplies a fluid change kit with fluids and a pump. Rear diff also BG from Tim.
I would do a heavy flush of the brakes before each season and bleed off a little from each blender before an event.
To make front brake pad changes easier, Several of us a stud kit that replaced the bolts on the front rotors. This stopped you from threading a steel bolt into and out of an aluminum hub Each time you service the front brakes. They hold the calipers away from the rotor while changing pads. The studs come with extensions you thread on. I have a set I took off my 2019 GT350R if you are interested.
 
Last edited:
9
11
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Louisiana
Yes, turn one at NOLA can be fun.
on my GT350R I ran Pagid pads both on the street and on track. They are pricey. Going to a street pad and separate track pad from a single supplier may be a better solution for you. Contact Tim at OP Mustang or the guys at KNS brakes and discuss your needs. Stay away from drilled rotors, they tend to crack.
I used BG fluid in the trans. Tim also supplies a fluid change kit with fluids and a pump. Rear diff also BG from Tim.
I would do a heavy flush of the brakes before each season and bleed off a little from each blender before an event.
To make front brake pad changes easier, Several of us a stud kit that replaced the bolts on the front rotors. This stopped you from threading a steel bolt into and out of an aluminum hub Each time you service the front brakes. They hold the calipers away from the rotor while changing pads. The studs come with extensions you thread on. I have a set I took off my 2019 GT350R if you are interested.
Thanks for the recs. I am interested in the caliper stud kit. Also, any thoughts on what weight for the diff oil?
 
384
486
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Wisconsin
Hi all,
I've been lurking around the forum for a bit, but this is my first post.
I just picked up 2018 GT350. Car is stock, from what I can tell. This is my daily driver and plan to do 4-6 HPDE track days/yr and 4-6 autocrosses/yr. I live in south Louisiana (hot and humid). Prior experience is HPDE for past 8 years (2010 Corvette and 2004 Honda S2000). I'm not looking to set any lap records or win any races, just weekend warrior fun. This is my first Ford and looking for any advice.

My plan so far:
  • Steeda Clutch spring
  • Passenger catch can
  • Brake fluid: RBF 600
  • Tranny fluid: Amsoil ATF signature series (blue cap)
  • Diff oil: Amsoil Severe gear 75W-90
  • Before each event, all I do is change engine oil, change street brake pads to track pads, flush brake fluid, and flush clutch fluid (suck out the old fluid in reservoir, replace with clean RBF, pump clutch 15 times, repeat until reservoir fluid is clean ).
  • I change tranny fluid and diff oil yearly.

Questions:
  • Brake pads, need help. These rotors are expensive @ $300/each (the S2000 rotors were $75/each), so I'm looking for a street pad and a track pad that are "rotor friendly". I actually find the stock pads more grabby than I need for the street. Which is fine, but I don't drive aggressively, so all I "need" is a decent street pad that is rotor friendly and won't completely suck at autocross. For track pads, this is the heaviest car I've had, and at NOLA, the turn 1 braking zone goes from 145mph to 55mph. Not sure what pad to run, maybe G-Lock?
  • Is flushing the brake fluid and clutch before very track event over kill?
  • Will my procedure for flushing the clutch fluid work in a GT350?
  • Is changing the tranny fluid and diff oil once a year enough?
  • Everyone says 75W-140 diff oil for track work. Do you think 75W-90 is the right call, given this is a 80-90% street driven car, or should I use 75W-140?
  • Are there any bolts, nuts, clips, etc that need to be replaced after one use (I've seen some stuff about replacing the OEM caliper bolts), or anything weird that I should be aware of ?
  • Anything wrong with my plan above?
  • Anything else?

Thanks!
Welcome aboard. Not to worry, your questions will be answered. The 350 is a different animal of sorts to what I have so I can’t offer too much but the others will reply. Maybe start a member build to get more exposure.
 
9
11
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Louisiana
Welcome aboard. Not to worry, your questions will be answered. The 350 is a different animal of sorts to what I have so I can’t offer too much but the others will reply. Maybe start a member build to get more exposure.
It's not really a build, so I didn't want to post incorrectly. But more exposure (and advice) is a good thing. Thanks for the suggestion. I might post on GT350.org as well.
 
384
486
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Wisconsin
It's not really a build, so I didn't want to post incorrectly. But more exposure (and advice) is a good thing. Thanks for the suggestion. I might post on GT350.org as well.
TMO signifies that as a ”build” thread but it‘s more of a personal thread for your car, you and your experiences on the track & off. Post there and it should bring in members checking out other members cars and/or issues. There are some gt350/gt500 owners, past & present, here that would chime in if they saw a post. @TMSBOSS is one plus others.
 

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