2018 vs Boss Intake manifold

[Mad Hatter]

The CobraJet intake kinda fell on its face in that manifold shootout video above. I'm guessing the Boss intake is probably better than the CJ on a stock Gen 1 Coyote engine. I'm thinking the stock GT cams and heads are a bottleneck to the CJ manifold. However, if you've got Boss or ported GT heads, and Boss / CJ / aftermarket cams, then the increased breathing capacity of those are where you would see gains from the CJ manifold's high-end breathing.

To be honest, any test that runs a Cobrajet manifold out of the box is not going to give you a real picture of the potencial. IT HAS TO BE CLEANED UP.... Mine was hideous inside with +4mm gaps and very very rough edges, No way would it flow well out of the box. It looked more like a prototype some kid printed in a 3d printer Am pretty sure we would not be getting +500rwhp with out it.

Comparing it to a friends car who installed a 2018 manifold on his gen2, you could see that the 2018 was a production part with decent quality, and even those show a good bump in power with porting. In any case he peaked about 50hp behind me with a similar build on his gen2 (Lm cams, headers exhaust etc).

PS, I did have the gen3 block though.

 

[ShifterX]

Yes, Over 6700rpm the Boss smokes the stock manifold, you can see 50hp gains at getting past 7000rpm. But the unsung hero is the Cobrajet manifold, it does need to be ported and cleaned up or its a crap shoot. They are pretty awful looking inside when coming out of the box.

CJ needs a TB as well though, right? My engine is pretty stock. X-pipe/OTA pipes/GT500 AB and AED tune and JLT. No headers, cams, heads etc. Actually if I replaced the IM, it would be the most significant mod.

Considering how stock my engine is, would a CJ still be recommended?

I am looking to shift the RPMS up about 1k from stock. But where the engine pulls, not just revs.

 

[mwjscn]

No headers, cams, heads etc.

I am looking to shift the RPMS up about 1k from stock.

If you like your engine, you're going to have to do internal engine modifications to meet your rpm goals reliably. Then you can pick the intake that compliments your modifications. There really isn't a justifiable point in my opinion of slapping a CJ on an otherwise-stock engine, given the cost of the manifold, throttle body, cold air intake, and tuning. The cheapest point of entry into extending the powerband up is probably a Boss 302 intake manifold, re-using your existing throttle body, Boss 302R springs or similar, getting maintenance items like new valve cover gaskets and may as well replace the valve stem seals if you're doing valve springs, and buying a tune. But then if you want reliability and the maximum potential at high RPM you also start diving down the path of different camshafts, headers for exhaust volume, Boss 302 chain tensioners, which then also require changing the tensioner-side guide rails to match, may as well do a billet oil pump while you're in there, since you have a 2011 you are at a higher risk of VCT connector failure, so that also means new solenoids and either cutting the wires and adding the correct plugs or a new engine wiring harness, 2011 also has the weakest connecting rods in the entire history of the Coyote lineup - the Boss got stronger ones with more material to deal with its 7,500 rpm redline, a new clutch to deal with the higher RPM holding capability, may as well throw on a high-rpm crank trigger wheel, new TOB, and a new pilot bearing while you're doing the clutch, don't forget about a revised crank sensor or doing the o-ring crank sensor mod, and oil cooler to deal with the increased heat, etc. It becomes a slippery slope pretty fast. Automotive systems often need to be harmonized with one another. A meaningful change to one often necessitates changes to the other in order to maximize their performance and reliability, so it's not usually as simple as just slapping on an intake manifold and having an extra 1,000 safe rpm unlocked like video game tuning unfortunately.

If you want to pull for a little more mph, it may be easier just to get a taller differential gear ratio (I don't know what you have installed now) in combination with a Boss manifold. It just depends how much money and time you want to spend on it. If you have $5,000 dollars you want to put towards it for parts, labor, and tuning, the fine gentlemen on this forum can give you multiple winning comprehensive upgrade formulations I'm confident you'd be happy with.

Value Route
$200 Boss 302 intake manifold
$120 Boss 302R valve springs
Black Permatex
$50 Valve Cover Gaskets
$50 Valve Stem Seals as a while-you're-in-there (your choice)
Cost of a tune revision
Any labor from work you don't do yourself and any necessary tools for labor you decide to do

Just remember that when Ford made a 7,500 rpm Boss 302 engine with a warranty attached to it, beyond the above parts they also decided to add in heavier duty chain tensioners, chain tensioner arms to match, an upgraded alternator with a revised clutch and tensioner system, revised exhaust camshafts, and thicker connecting rods - and those still often ended up needing an aftermarket clutch and oil cooler upgrade if you wanted to take full advantage of that on a track

 

[Mad Hatter]

CJ needs a TB as well though, right? My engine is pretty stock. X-pipe/OTA pipes/GT500 AB and AED tune and JLT. No headers, cams, heads etc. Actually if I replaced the IM, it would be the most significant mod.

Considering how stock my engine is, would a CJ still be recommended?

I am looking to shift the RPMS up about 1k from stock. But where the engine pulls, not just revs.

MWJSCN Is right.. Either the Boss or Cobrajet engine will shine at over 7000 rpm and to sleep at night, it would be better to change the valve spirngs. Also your right the Cobrajet needs the twin throttle body so your costs will add up quickly.

I guess I was refering to the idea of the OEM Cobrajet kit with the CJ cams etc.

 

[TMSBOSS]

I went on Lethal Performance and put a ported CJ manifold, throttle body and cold air intake tube in my cart just to see what the External parts would cost. It’s about $2900.00ish.

 

[EF1]

I don't have any experience with the CJ intake, but when I looked at this a few years ago, the Boss intake seems to be the sweet spot for high rpm power on the Gen 1 engines. I have a ported Boss intake and ported stock throttle body on my 2011. Everything else is basically stock, just a Steeda CAI and Kook''s from the H pipe back. Redline is currently set at 7400, but power starts to fall off about there with the stock valve springs.

 

[ShifterX]

Shaun set the rev limiter to 7500. It revs there it, just doesn’t pull there. I shift about 6500 as it seems the party is over by then. In a perfect world I would like to unlock more power in that area. Not saying I am looking to pull to 7500 every gear, but it nice to know it’s there if I am running a 10/10 lap.

Sounds like the Boss would be a cost effective way to get there. Thanks.