Axle leak at HDPE event

[palsmith]

So I just came from Barber and was black flagged for smoke from the rear. Gear oil is leaking out axle tubes with the passenger side being the worst. I have a 2013 Track Pack GT that has 50,000 miles. I have a Ford racing shock suspension Combo with P springs. Also, i did pull axles to install Gt500 rear brackets and rotors. I will acknowledge That I filled the diff with Mobil one gear oil. I was running Pirelli take off slicks at the track and was chasing down some German cars this morning with runs in the 1:48 to 1:49 range.

Please advise as I lost a Couple of sessions this week due to this problem. I'm guessing I need new axle seals, better oil, and a separator tank or even cooler.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[ls110]

I only have 12k on mine and had both seals replaced earlier this summer. Thankfully covered under warranty. My seals actually went bad after changing to Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil and my Ford mechanic was suggesting I go back to Motorcraft. You definitely need to add a differential axel breather. Here is what I installed: http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Mustang-axle-reservoir-KR-style-axle-reservoir.htm

 

[dmichaels]

I only have 12k on mine and had both seals replaced earlier this summer. Thankfully covered under warranty. My seals actually went bad after changing to Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil and my Ford mechanic was suggesting I go back to Motorcraft. You definitely need to add a differential axel breather. Here is what I installed: http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Mustang-axle-reservoir-KR-style-axle-reservoir.htm

That's very interesting. I put in redline shockproof and blew a seal a week later at a track day. Covered under warranty but wondering if it's the gear oil now. Have 2 track days on the ford replacement fluid. No issues so far...

To the OP: get an overflow tank setup. The PRV can fail and cause the pressure to relieve itself thru an axle seal

 

[Grant 302]

Leaking out of the axle vents or ends?

And you probably do need the upgrades you mention.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I only have 12k on mine and had both seals replaced earlier this summer. Thankfully covered under warranty. My seals actually went bad after changing to Red Line Lightweight Shockproof gear oil and my Ford mechanic was suggesting I go back to Motorcraft. You definitely need to add a differential axel breather. Here is what I installed: http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Mustang-axle-reservoir-KR-style-axle-reservoir.htm

Skip the Bob's and do something like this instead.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=7851.0

 

[ls110]

That's very interesting. I put in redline shockproof and blew a seal a week later at a track day. Covered under warranty but wondering if it's the gear oil now. Have 2 track days on the ford replacement fluid. No issues so far...

After seeing your timing with the Redline and the seals, I just checked my timing. I actually made it month and two track events before my seal went out. Since the seal replacement I have gone back to Motorcraft. I have a gallon of the Redline that I was contemplating using at my next change and I now know I am not going to do that. Anyone want a gallon of the Redline for a very good price

 

[palsmith]

I forgot to mention that I was running the traction control in sport mode. I was told today that the rear brakes are on often, creating heat issues with axle seals and caliper piston seals.

I have seen various threads on this, so I take another lesson learned is to run with the traction control off?

 

[Black Boss]

I'm running Redline Diff fluid with no issues, after nearly 20 track days this year.

I do have a vent and a Diff cooler:



I believe the failures are likely temperature related. A combination of brake and diff fluid generated heat. The Diff runs very hot without a cooler after 15 minutes, and as many people have commented the rear brakes get very hot even with the nannies off. I'm regularly burning rear caliper seals......

 

[VoodooBoss]

I forgot to mention that I was running the traction control in sport mode. I was told today that the rear brakes are on often, creating heat issues with axle seals and caliper piston seals.

I have seen various threads on this, so I take another lesson learned is to run with the traction control off?

This is more likely the issue and not the Redline oil.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

This is more likely the issue and not the Redline oil.

Totally agree, Redline makes a good product that does not eat seals. Advance Track Sport mode pulls you down from the rear brakes as it helps you gain control. This makes Sport mode feel less intrusive. Racing with TC/AT on can make your rotors glow, so learn to push you car without TC/AT, but be careful, it takes time and practice.

Good luck on the Track,
302 HP

 

[dmichaels]

Also burning caliper dust boots - are you guys replacing them yourselves, having the dealer do it (warranty??), or not bothering? My rear drivers side is almost non-existent after my last outing.

I think the redline fluid didn't cause problems and my seal was going to go regardless... but interesting coincidence on the OP's situation and mine.

 

[cloud9]

Also burning caliper dust boots - are you guys replacing them yourselves, having the dealer do it (warranty??), or not bothering? My rear drivers side is almost non-existent after my last outing.

I think the redline fluid didn't cause problems and my seal was going to go regardless... but interesting coincidence on the OP's situation and mine.

I had one go at Road America. It's the heat from the rear brakes so if you're running with TC or even AdvanceTrac on you're accelerating the seal failure.

 

[2012-Boss]

I replace the caliper seals myself between seasons. You can get them from Rock Auto for about $3. Do a search, I posted the part numbers earlier this summer.

The dealer will not replace the seals. The manual calls for a caliper replacement. I never tried to get them replaced under warranty.

 

[Black Boss]

+1

I've replaced 2 sets of rear caliper seals this season using the Rock Auto replacements.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Do you need the caliper seals if you don't drive your car in the rain?

 

[Black Boss]

Not sure. I'm replacing them as a precaution. At $3 seems like cheap insurance against potentially abrasive brake pad dust and other clag.

 

[boss man]

Do you need the caliper seals if you don't drive your car in the rain?

Seals / dust boots are for one thing.. To keep foreign matter out of the caliper / piston area which will give longer life and less chance of brake failure. Cheap ins. when it comes to brakes.