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S197 Badger - 2011 S197 Gen3 Swap Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

145
216
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Chipping away on random bits as they come in. Waiting for the oilpan and the fuel system right now.

MMR lightweight water pump pully 0.8lbs instead of 1.6lbs.
67363A82-2259-490E-8311-22AE19E54D10.jpeg

Fresh Ford Performance Mini Starter.
Weighs 6.4lbs compared to the 8.2lbs of the OEM one. 1.8lbs difference and not the claimed 5lbs. Bummer.
04BD8F13-F51D-4359-BA4A-423BF99D5566.jpeg

AC compressor is on. Just for @ArizonaBOSS cause he likes this one so much.
C306BD68-F3A8-46AF-9FA9-A1410297037A.jpeg
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
448
449
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
Fresh Ford Performance Mini Starter.
Weighs 6.4lbs compared to the 8.2lbs of the OEM one. 1.8lbs difference and not the claimed 5lbs. Bummer.
Just wondering if you comparison shopped the starter at all. Seems like everyone uses the Ford Perf. starter, but it's a good bit costlier than a PowerMaster 9132 which should weight in at 7.0 lbs.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,571
2,438
Arizona, USA
The weight may not be there on the starter, but it is definitely smaller in physical size, if that's important.
Hanno--I would STRONGLY recommend putting a heat shield WRAP/Blanket on the starter now, while the engine is out of the car. Headers can roast the starter and/or the solenoid and the blanket is cheap insurance.

Also since you have everything apart now would be a great time to thermo-sleeve your wiring that is anywhere near the headers in the engine bay.
 
145
216
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
The weight may not be there on the starter, but it is definitely smaller in physical size, if that's important.
Hanno--I would STRONGLY recommend putting a heat shield WRAP/Blanket on the starter now, while the engine is out of the car. Headers can roast the starter and/or the solenoid and the blanket is cheap insurance.

Also since you have everything apart now would be a great time to thermo-sleeve your wiring that is anywhere near the headers in the engine bay.

Noted, will be added. I`m also routing all wiring as far as possible from the headers while at it. Any thoughts on ceramic coating?

@Scootsmcgreggor Thanks man, that's motivating!
 
145
216
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Parts are coming in slow, making all the engine work pretty sluggish.
But the Ford Racing alternator is on:

31F430C2-E651-4E96-9F27-8F2265898161.jpeg

Took the dash cover out to route the wiring and transfer the whole original wiring harness into the cabin to make space for the control pack in the engine bay. Also takes 13lbs off the nose of the car and moves it behind the front wheels. Would not mind thinning this one out once the car is in a working state again. Lots of surplus weight and unused plugs in there.
D16CB85C-DB92-4564-9DD1-E3D964232F33.jpeg

Class rules require a full interior in the front. Good moment to drop some oft this in while looking for good spots to hide all the wiring and fuse boxes.
DAF66A55-9372-4A77-A0E0-A7DE828F389D.jpeg

All the basic functions from windows to blinkers still seam to work. Next step will be to extend all the wires to their original location.
F4C79462-A892-4F76-978B-C61BCD1E3CE8.png
 
145
216
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Racecarservices EPAS Conversion Harness came in today.

7E14FFE2-7D37-400C-B340-760BE53A890F.jpeg

It´s a quite nice piece and easy to install: Installation instructions
I talked with Casey over the weekend. He was very helpful and explained all the ins and out of the harness.
The racks firmness actually gets adjusted by cars speed value from the Can bus system and this harness taps right into it to persevere that functionality.
Casey also explained this value can be set up to be manually adjusted via a knob and he can provide the harness to do so. I am not planning to do this but I figured someone here might be interested in this.

A833B4AD-2B96-4BD4-AFEF-674538768604.jpegC81B1A36-E570-4EDD-B50E-B768A04F9102.jpeg

All that is missing now is plugging it into the fusebox and splicing it into the Can wiring.
 
Last edited:
145
216
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Question: Does and don'ts about surge tank placement

I am still occasionally using my trunk to lug tires and tools to the track. I want to make sure the surge tank is in a place were it wont get accidentally damaged nor puts the drivers safety at risk. Worst case scenario would be having a jack (or similar) whack it really hard when doing an emergency stop.

TMO favorite - Rear of the trunk.
Vorshlag/Dylan and Chris style:
IMG_5412.jpegIMG_5418.jpeg

Mounted to the inner fender well:
Vertical, horizontal, on top of it. There are a bunch of options.
IMG_5410.jpegIMG_5411.jpegIMG_5417.jpeg

Most convenient spot:
IMG_5414.jpeg

Other options A and B:
IMG_5413.jpegIMG_5415.jpeg
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,571
2,438
Arizona, USA
Vertical is going to give your greatest resistance to starvation (not to mention the sock for the in-unit pump will be at the base of the unit). You will need to cycle the key or keep the factory in-tank pump running long enough to fill the surge tank--but once that's done you basically have a full minute or so of starvation protection.
 
145
216
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Vertical is going to give your greatest resistance to starvation (not to mention the sock for the in-unit pump will be at the base of the unit). You will need to cycle the key or keep the factory in-tank pump running long enough to fill the surge tank--but once that's done you basically have a full minute or so of starvation protection.
I was guessing that would be the better solution, still good to hear to quickly narrow it down.
 
24
46
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Manhattan, KS
Any thoughts on ceramic coating?
One thought on ceramic coating... One of my previous jobs was doing engine installations on combines. We were looking for a reduction in surface temperatures, so I talked them into getting an exhaust pipe ceramic coated so we could do a before and after. It wasn't a completely scientific comparison, but the uncoated pipe reached 1200 degrees surface temperature while the coated pipe was 600 under the same basic conditions. I believe we had Jet Hot in OKC do the coating. They were relatively close to us, and a leader in the industry at the time. I haven't done any research on ceramic coating lately, but if I ever get another set of headers I would definitely have them coated.

Very cool build, by the way. I have thoughts of putting a '19/'20 Bullitt engine in my '08 sometimes, but it will only be a possibility if I blow up the original.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
448
449
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
Because you're essentially putting a small fuel tank and lines inside the trunk area, are you going to build a firewall between the passenger compartment and trunk so seal it off? Some organizations may require it, so read any relevant rulebooks for groups you may run with.

Since you're still going to be lugging stuff in the trunk, maybe consider putting a sacrificial sheetmetal wall/box around the surge tank. Better the toolbox hits a piece of sheetmetal than the surge tank if you take a corner sharply on your way to the track.
 
145
216
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
@Dave_W @RES_22
Good thinking! I like the ideas and a battery box is pretty straight forward an uncomplicated.
AFAIK none of the events I run with, not even NASA, requires a separation between the driver cell and fuel equipment. That said, there is no reason to not improve upon it.

@Steve68Cougar 600 degree lower and halfling the heat is quite a lot! Definitely sounds worthy getting some local quotes for.
 

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