Cheap Rotors are Best Rotors - Change my Mind (Raybestos R-Line vs other rotors)

[blvckgt]

I am so sorry to reply to an old thread but I am a track noob and I need some help.

So, would these be ok to run on a 17 5.0 non-pp?

More Information for CENTRIC 12161109

More Information for CENTRIC 12161114

Based on the discussion above, the 121.xxxxx is a cost-effective way yet with relatively good performance? The premium line is basically the same performance with more rusting?

Yep those two part numbers look good for your non-pp 352mm front and 330 rear

Just FYI, the selected 121 is the standard and 120 is the premium.

By my understanding of also reading all the comments over TMO, these are good cheap alternatives opposed to huge price jump for two-pieces.

I also purchased the high carbon centrics from rockauto just a week ago, gonna install them tomorrow!

 

[mr2raw]

Yep those two part numbers look good for your non-pp 352mm front and 330 rear

Just FYI, the selected 121 is the standard and 120 is the premium.

By my understanding of also reading all the comments over TMO, these are good cheap alternatives opposed to huge price jump for two-pieces.

I also purchased the high carbon centrics from rockauto just a week ago, gonna install them tomorrow!

I did not see the 120 as a selection on rock auto. What's the added advantage of the 120 over the 121 other than corrosion protection? Does it perform better?

I know TMO recommends centric rotors. But are they actually better than OEM or just rotors that's cost effective that members dont mind replacing?

What's the advantage of using the 125 if you don't mind me asking?

Sorry for the questions, I am new to the track scene.

 

[blvckgt]

I did not see the 120 as a selection on rock auto. What's the added advantage of the 120 over the 121 other than corrosion protection? Does it perform better?

I know TMO recommends centric rotors. But are they actually better than OEM or just rotors that's cost effective that members dont mind replacing?

What's the advantage of using the 125 if you don't mind me asking?

Sorry for the questions, I am new to the track scene.

No problem, welcome to the hobby!
I also started this year in March, you're not alone haha

I didn't see 120 on RockAuto either, they must be out of stock.
By my understanding, quoting Vorshlag above:

The econo line from Centric doesn't have the black powder coated centers (see above), so they get rusty looking pretty quickly, otherwise it is the same casting.

Otherwise the powercoat, Vorshlag stated 121/120 are the same.

125 is High Carbon, according to my google research, performs better, more crack resistant, and less noise, especially with aggressive high friction pads. I purchased high carbons in hopes that it'll offset the supposedly noisy Carbotech XP24 I'll be running in the front this time around.

Here is an article by Centric on their High Carbon product: https://centricparts.com/company/ne...entric-premium-high-carbon-rotors-offer-impro


As far as being 'better' than OEM, I can't say for sure myself since I haven't ran any testing against them head-to-head.
But looks like a lot of TMO members are having success with their affordability, longevity, and performance.

And yes it looks like you'll be more than fine with the 121.

 

[mr2raw]

No problem, welcome to the hobby!
I also started this year in March, you're not alone haha

I didn't see 120 on RockAuto either, they must be out of stock.
By my understanding, quoting Vorshlag above:

Otherwise the powercoat, Vorshlag stated 121/120 are the same.

125 is High Carbon, according to my google research, performs better, more crack resistant, and less noise, especially with aggressive high friction pads. I purchased high carbons in hopes that it'll offset the supposedly noisy Carbotech XP24 I'll be running in the front this time around.

Here is an article by Centric on their High Carbon product: https://centricparts.com/company/ne...entric-premium-high-carbon-rotors-offer-impro


As far as being 'better' than OEM, I can't say for sure myself since I haven't ran any testing against them head-to-head.
But looks like a lot of TMO members are having success with their affordability, longevity, and performance.

And yes it looks like you'll be more than fine with the 121.

For sure, thanks for the info!

 

[mr2raw]

No problem, welcome to the hobby!
I also started this year in March, you're not alone haha

I didn't see 120 on RockAuto either, they must be out of stock.
By my understanding, quoting Vorshlag above:

Otherwise the powercoat, Vorshlag stated 121/120 are the same.

125 is High Carbon, according to my google research, performs better, more crack resistant, and less noise, especially with aggressive high friction pads. I purchased high carbons in hopes that it'll offset the supposedly noisy Carbotech XP24 I'll be running in the front this time around.

Here is an article by Centric on their High Carbon product: https://centricparts.com/company/ne...entric-premium-high-carbon-rotors-offer-impro


As far as being 'better' than OEM, I can't say for sure myself since I haven't ran any testing against them head-to-head.
But looks like a lot of TMO members are having success with their affordability, longevity, and performance.

And yes it looks like you'll be more than fine with the 121.

Do you happen to know of a place where I can get the 120 premium rotors?

 

[Bill Pemberton]

There are many on here who will vouch for the simple thought that you get what you pay for. Over the years I have splurged for two piece rotors ( Girodisc ) using US Steel and getting the other benefit of less unsprung weight. I will admit to having the stock rotors on my Mach 1 and they are impressive, but getting " El Cheapo " rotors often means you have no real assurance of the quality of the steel. Pay a little more, contact someone like Capaldi Racing , OP Mustang, KNS Brakes , or EBC Brakes and get something of better quality. They will stand up to heat better, last longer and you will also be able to chat with folks who have real world experience, not some Cubicle Salesperson at a wholesale warehouse who just stares at a computer screen. Funny how the guys out there running cars like ours, will have better real World examples, imho.

 

[Coz]

So, would these be ok to run on a 17 5.0 non-pp?

I believe these non-PP rotors have the 14" inverted hat rotors that have the cooling vanes on the outside. Therefore cooling ducts won't have any effect. See the post by Terry Fair on the 1st page of this thread.

These might be ok for a beginner trying out a few track days to see if they want to pursue it further. But I see you've posted on other threads about upgrading to stainless steel lines and getting more aggressive pads. But I did not see you ask any questions about brake cooling.

I would NOT upgrade to SS lines and race pads if you do not also add brake cooling ducts or cooling deflectors.

Since you can't cool the non-PP rotors anything else you do will give you a false sense of security and get you into trouble.

To my knowledge, all the one-piece cast iron aftermarket rotors have the same design with respect to the inverted hat as the Ford OEM rotors. I have no idea if 2-piece rotors are even available for a non-PP car and, if they are, if they have the cooling vanes on the inboard sides.

Bottom line - don't waste your time & money doing ANY brake upgrades if you're not also going to do anything about brake cooling.