S550 Elvira Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

[Ilghar]

This is the Build Thread for Elvira. Reply below.

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First day on track (open laps)

Brakes significantly fade after 3 laps.
I will be replacing the rotors anyway. I have already installed NAPA coated rotors for the rear but if I am to get performance rotors for the front, then the front and rear won't watch, not sure if this will be a problem.
Replacing the Brake fluid with DOT4 isn't an expensive upgrade and won't compromise street driving, just needs replacing sooner.
Need more testing to see if I need brake cooling ducts.

Transmission seemed to be within "operating range" towards the higher end 105C (221F) - 115C (239).
Based on what I have read online, this is too much and some people have even installed oversized coolers, so a trans cooler is a must if I don't want to mess up my automatic transmission.

Wheel wells could probably cook a whole chicken, but I won't be doing anything regarding that as of now.

One thing that is scaring me on the back of my mind is the OPG.
I have been told it isn't necessary for the 2020 mustangs with no power adders, but what if the mustang sees track? rather not spend an extra 1500$ CAD

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PP1 Brembos for the front
Motul 600
Vorshlag brake duct plates https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...197-3-diameter-brake-duct-backing-plates-pair
Transmission oil and filter change
Transmission cooler https://pbhperformance.com/product/transmission-cooler-kit/
Corsa performance oil catch can https://www.americanmuscle.com/corsa-mustang-oil-catch-can-cc0003.html

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[Bill Pemberton]

Sounds like you have big goals and this is a great place to get info. Tires are the major item for winning Time Trials and it appears from some info recently left that you have a typical complicated rules on what tire you can use and stay in the Class you want. Good luck, keep us posted and always good to add another Canadian to this Track Forum.

 

[Ilghar]

Sounds like you have big goals and this is a great place to get info. Tires are the major item for winning Time Trials and it appears from some info recently left that you have a typical complicated rules on what tire you can use and stay in the Class you want. Good luck, keep us posted and always good to add another Canadian to this Track Forum.

Tires are most important, but as a complete beginner, I won't be able to take advantage of them.

 

[302BOB]

I'm a dog guy because i got 2 Pitt Bull "grandsons" but I love that beautiful cat on your ride.....Hang on Elvira!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Understood Bob, but it is appropriate as llghar says his Mustang just purrs!!

 

[Ilghar]

First day on track (open laps)

Brakes significantly fade after 3 laps.
I will be replacing the rotors anyway. I have already installed NAPA coated rotors for the rear but if I am to get performance rotors for the front, then the front and rear won't watch, not sure if this will be a problem.
Replacing the Brake fluid with DOT4 isn't an expensive upgrade and won't compromise street driving, just needs replacing sooner.
Need more testing to see if I need brake cooling ducts.

Transmission seemed to be within "operating range" towards the higher end 105C (221F) - 115C (239).
Based on what I have read online, this is too much and some people have even installed oversized coolers, so a trans cooler is a must if I don't want to mess up my automatic transmission.

Wheel wells could probably cook a whole chicken, but I won't be doing anything regarding that as of now.

One thing that is scaring me on the back of my mind is the OPG.
I have been told it isn't necessary for the 2020 mustangs with no power adders, but what if the mustang sees track? rather not spend an extra 1500$ CAD

 

[o-man]

Is this a performance pkg car? The reason why I ask is there are several brake pad upgrades for the 6 piston Brembo's. You need brake cooling deflectors from Vorshlag https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...cts/vorshlag-s550-brake-cooling-deflector-kit
Check out Flyleaf's build for info about trans cooling.
I don't think opg are too much of an issue. I've got more track events on my Bullitt than I can remember with no issues.

 

[JDee]

Drilled/slotted rotors are not necessary and in fact are not great for track work, they're mostly just bling. I've run stock Ford blank rotors for 6 years and they are fine. Proper racing pads are essential. What are you using for pads? The stock pads are not suitable for track.

The advice above about Vorshlag's deflectors is sound, they help a lot but you need to open up the front end to feed air to them, unless you've got a PP1 splitter with the ducts in it. You can also do some work with hoses to feed more air to the deflectors.

I'm assuming you're running at Mosport? That track is not hard on brakes at all, if you're getting brake fade in 3 laps there's clearly something wrong. Shannonville is a different story, very hard on brakes.

You have an automatic? That's another management problem. Are you downshifting it manually entering corners? Do you have the 6 piston PP brakes? If not then you need them or some equivalent aftermarket solution. Do you have auxiliary cooling for the transmission? If not you're going to need to address that problem. @flyhalf is the go to guy around here about running an automatic on track. Even with a manual gearbox I have a cooler on it, and a cooler on the diff as well. Much cheaper to do that than rebuilding gearboxes and rear ends all the time.

Come out to a Speed Therapy track day, there's some Mustang guys there you can talk to and get a look at what they're doing with their cars and find out what works. Those days are always booked up well ahead of time but you can still come out and talk to us and see what we're doing to make these cars live on track. I know of no one running an automatic though, all manuals except one guy with a DCT but that's a different animal than an automatic.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Oh Man, is O-man correct, get a set of Vorshlag Brake deflectors that just bolt up to the A-Arms. There is no reason to question needing brake ducting or a brake ducting plate because going faster you will absolutely need more air on rotors, pads, and calipers. This will also extend the life of your braking system and no worries about a matching set of rotors in the rear as I ran Girodisc 2 piece rotors on three of my Boss 302s and just standard rotors in the rear. Don't just get a DOT 4 fluid , get a high quality DOT 4 like Motul 600 ( for example ). Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[67GTA]

Looking at the pic in your build profile, it looks like you have the standard 4 piston front calipers. No issue with the calipers, it’s the vent design on the OE rotor. Click the link below for a blog post from @OPMustang Tim - describes the issue and provides a great solution.

https://www.opmustang.com/blog#/

 

[flyhalf]

239f is not operational temp. Unfortunately. Is 225..max 230f..
Can you take a picture if your front rotors please? From outside the wheel is fine
Also what pads are u using?
And describe fading please.
Hard pedal no braking. Or
Soft pedal no braking?

 

[Ilghar]

Is this a performance pkg car? The reason why I ask is there are several brake pad upgrades for the 6 piston Brembo's. You need brake cooling deflectors from Vorshlag https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...cts/vorshlag-s550-brake-cooling-deflector-kit
Check out Flyleaf's build for info about trans cooling.
I don't think opg are too much of an issue. I've got more track events on my Bullitt than I can remember with no issues.

not a performance package

 

[Ilghar]

Drilled/slotted rotors are not necessary and in fact are not great for track work, they're mostly just bling. I've run stock Ford blank rotors for 6 years and they are fine. Proper racing pads are essential. What are you using for pads? The stock pads are not suitable for track.

The advice above about Vorshlag's deflectors is sound, they help a lot but you need to open up the front end to feed air to them, unless you've got a PP1 splitter with the ducts in it. You can also do some work with hoses to feed more air to the deflectors.

I'm assuming you're running at Mosport? That track is not hard on brakes at all, if you're getting brake fade in 3 laps there's clearly something wrong. Shannonville is a different story, very hard on brakes.

You have an automatic? That's another management problem. Are you downshifting it manually entering corners? Do you have the 6 piston PP brakes? If not then you need them or some equivalent aftermarket solution. Do you have auxiliary cooling for the transmission? If not you're going to need to address that problem. @flyhalf is the go to guy around here about running an automatic on track. Even with a manual gearbox I have a cooler on it, and a cooler on the diff as well. Much cheaper to do that than rebuilding gearboxes and rear ends all the time.

Come out to a Speed Therapy track day, there's some Mustang guys there you can talk to and get a look at what they're doing with their cars and find out what works. Those days are always booked up well ahead of time but you can still come out and talk to us and see what we're doing to make these cars live on track. I know of no one running an automatic though, all manuals except one guy with a DCT but that's a different animal than an automatic.

Pads are ceramic from NAPA.

No problem opening the front for air but won't a brake cooling duct be better?

I was at TMP cayuga, 3 laps is all it can do, 4th lap brakes don't grab.

That was my first day on the track, I left the trans on auto sport mode and my brakes are not PP, I have a base model.

 

[Ilghar]

Oh Man, is O-man correct, get a set of Vorshlag Brake deflectors that just bolt up to the A-Arms. There is no reason to question needing brake ducting or a brake ducting plate because going faster you will absolutely need more air on rotors, pads, and calipers. This will also extend the life of your braking system and no worries about a matching set of rotors in the rear as I ran Girodisc 2 piece rotors on three of my Boss 302s and just standard rotors in the rear. Don't just get a DOT 4 fluid , get a high quality DOT 4 like Motul 600 ( for example ). Good luck and keep us posted.

so vorhlag brake deflectors and motul 600 it is.

deflectors, should I get the PP or the base model, I have a base model.

 

[Ilghar]

239f is not operational temp. Unfortunately. Is 225..max 230f..
Can you take a picture if your front rotors please? From outside the wheel is fine
Also what pads are u using?
And describe fading please.
Hard pedal no braking. Or
Soft pedal no braking?

I will hit the track soon and will take note of everything.

Base model 4 piston, still on factory rotors and pads that I will change soon to NAPA coated rotors and ceramic pads.

 

[302BOB]

The best performance package you can get is the one YOU make up by driving your car and realizing what you need for your application..............................................Help is here......

 

[JDee]

Pads are ceramic from NAPA.

No problem opening the front for air but won't a brake cooling duct be better?

You have to feed the ducts high pressure air, hence you need to open the front somewhere to feed the ducts. You really need to get some of the six piston Brembos and the 15" rotors, the stock brakes are going to be very limiting, especially at Cayuga. Rock Auto has them and they are very Canada friendly to work with.

 

[Ilghar]

would pp underbelly be enough to redirect the air to the vorshlag deflectors?
would a pp underbelly fit the base model?

 

[JDee]

do you know if the pp1 under tray fits on base models?

My car is a base 2016 model, has PP1 with no other options. I wanted the lightest car I could get. But I can't say with any certainty that the undertray will fit something else. Maybe someone else might know and weigh in on it?
Some people on here have made under trays that were much more extensive, mostly to get a bigger splitter. It's not an insignificant job, but it's also not hugely difficult from what I have seen.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

I would chat with JDee since he is an old sicko Trackrat and he will make sure you get a decent set of rotors and pads, but if you are just talking about NAPA auto parts rotors/ pads he can steer you better.

I am a big fan of two piece front rotors, but only slotted. Drilled rotors have a tendency to crack near the holes especially for those of us who brake like a mutha. As JDee noted drilled is for bling factor ,not stopping. You can get a ton of info here and we may even help you not to spend money on things that don't really work.

PS - JDee won't tell you but he is quite fast, so he really would be a good, close source.