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Enclosed trailer options

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2
0
Exp. Type
Drag Strip
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Kansas City
Hi Matt, Here's a bit more info. The escape door was a priority for me cause I can't do the "Duke Boys" thing well anymore. Just make sure your door will clear the fender well or that the fender well is removable and your door will clear the tires.

I had over-the-top airline track installed for tie downs after I bought the trailer. Having the rails built in and recessed by the factory is cool, but I wanted better control over the track width as I'm trying to load both a 2019 GT350 and a '65 Mustang. The wheel-track on these two vehicles is quite different and I needed to split the difference. I've used the airline track tie downs for lots of hauling other than cars.

The over-the-wheel type ratchet tie downs work great on the airline track, but it is a bit of a squeeze getting in between the car and the right-side trailer wall.

I knew I wanted interior lighting, but I've found I like the exterior lighting more than I thought I would - especially over the ramp.

I installed a winch in the front of the trailer. The GT350 is very wide and a bit scary to load under its own power because there's only a couple inches of room on either side. The winch makes this much less stressful. Highly recommended.

Jim
View attachment 16016View attachment 16017 .

View attachment 16014
Jim, How do you get to the track tie downs on the right side? I used the Ford performance frame tie downs for my 2022 GT500, but you have to connect the straps on the right side of the car before you load. I would like to go to the track tie downs, but not sure how I would connect them on them on the right side, especially the front one.
 
I paid 65k for mine 28ft Atc deluxe every option.
escape door is a must
get airline tracks on floor AND get e tracks on the side

only thing id recommend is not having a generator box in the cabinets but on the tongue And an electric over hydraulic tongue lift. 24 is max id get for a raptor with airbags

IMG_4973.jpeg
 

Bugs

Jim. Avocation: Avoiding Blunt-Force Trauma.
35
68
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Eagle ID
Jim, How do you get to the track tie downs on the right side? I used the Ford performance frame tie downs for my 2022 GT500, but you have to connect the straps on the right side of the car before you load. I would like to go to the track tie downs, but not sure how I would connect them on them on the right side, especially the front one.
Hi Matt, I use the Mac's 2" VersaTie equipment for securing each wheel:

Airline Track car tie down 2.jpgTread Lock.png

The first picture shows the ratchet close to the tire, but you can position it as far away as your straps and track will allow, so that it will extend out from under the car. Make sure your installation provides extra track in front and behind your vehicle to give you space to cycle the ratchet handle.

Before I winch my car into the trailer, I move the loose straps to the outside of my wheel-path so the straps don't wind up under a tire when the car is in position. I also lay the fittings ("Idlers") flat against the track. Then move the car over the top of them. I winch the car into the trailer until the tires are equally between the 2 Idler fittings in front and behind each wheel.

With the car in position, squeeze down between the car and trailer wall (Careful! Don't scratch the paint!) and position the straps loosely over the wheel, making sure the Tread Locks are on top of the tire. I initially place the three tread locks together on top of the tire so they don't slide down the loose strap. Then, I use my hand (or the ratchet) to add slight strap tension. Next, separate the tread locks, moving them farther around the tire. Under strap tension, they'll now stay put. Make any needed adjustment to the strap position to ensure it is centered over the airline track. Now, cinch down the strap.

The rear works the same way. The left side is definitely easier if you have an escape door to give you more access.

When you first get this setup, it takes a bit of trial-and-error to get the Idlers in the right position on the track, because you have to get the car out of the way to move the Idlers (unless you are much skinnier than me!) Once I got the Idlers where I wanted them, I used a Sharpie to mark their locations on the track because I have two vehicles that I haul and each uses different track locations.

Check your track-securing hardware each time you haul and buy some extra screws. I have found broken machine screws where the strap pressure has caused them to fail. You'll need two people - one under the trailer - to back-up and retighten the replacement screws.

Have Fun!
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,489
8,484
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Thanks I have been looking at these units trying to decide whether this or the conventional style will be easier for an old fart who has trouble getting up once he is kneeling or laying down, ha. I appreciate the note and it seems like Mac's have plenty of good choices on straps along with another US made Company Powertye.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,489
8,484
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
I have a 22 Ft. ATC with just a few options in the interior, and I feel like there is nothing behind me. I used to run a 26ft Steel Discovery trailer all over the US with a 5.7 Hemi Ram so I would have to believe an aluminum 26 ft. ATC or similar might be just fine for a Ecoboost. That said, if you load her down alot a 24 ft. will likely be easier on the F150. To me, the ability to have a smooth riding truck for 90% of the time, and with the cost of fuel, negates any advantage of a Diesel and had 3 prior to my past 2 Hemis. As Tony said, up to a 24 ft you should be able to pull all day, easily if aluminum, but if you run into a killer deal on a 26 footer you may still be fine -- especially with a newer , higher power Ecoboost, imho.
 

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