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Excessive Wheel Hop

First off let me state that I am not at all familiar with the suspension on the S197 platform or my LS.

That being said I need someone's technical experience and guidance regarding the excessive wheel hop on the 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. I could have the same issue on takeoff but I have not tried a burnout yet to see if the problem exist.

Is anyone else having the same problem?

If so, what have you done to remedy the problem?
 
MrGT5oh said:
First off let me state that I am not at all familiar with the suspension on the S197 platform or my LS.

That being said I need someone's technical experience and guidance regarding the excessive wheel hop on the 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. I could have the same issue on takeoff but I have not tried a burnout yet to see if the problem exist.

Is anyone else having the same problem?

If so, what have you done to remedy the problem?
It's usually more of an issue when the ambient temp is cool, say 50 degrees or less. The only way to fix it short of swapping LCAs, your UCA or springs, is to modulate your throttle input :D If you're spinning, you're slowing down ;) Seriously, it was a real problem on the GT500, but not nearly as much on the Boss. I go through enough tires on the track that I tend to "preserve" my expensive Pirelli street tires, so it really hasn't been a big issue for me.
 
cloud9 said:
MrGT5oh said:
First off let me state that I am not at all familiar with the suspension on the S197 platform or my LS.

That being said I need someone's technical experience and guidance regarding the excessive wheel hop on the 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. I could have the same issue on takeoff but I have not tried a burnout yet to see if the problem exist.

Is anyone else having the same problem?

If so, what have you done to remedy the problem?
It's usually more of an issue when the ambient temp is cool, say 50 degrees or less. The only way to fix it short of swapping LCAs, your UCA or springs, is to modulate your throttle input :D If you're spinning, you're slowing down ;) Seriously, it was a real problem on the GT500, but not nearly as much on the Boss. I go through enough tires on the track that I tend to "preserve" my expensive Pirelli street tires, so it really hasn't been a big issue for me.

I agree that the temp will compound the problem and it has gotten worse as the temp has cooled off, but it is in the mid 60's today and I was only maybe 3/4 throttle and it was still excessive (granted I was speed shifting).

Has anyone tried adjusting the rear shocks to a higher setting? If so, did it help?
 
I have the same problem. It was in the 80's the other day and I had bad wheel hop on launch, 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift (and a good healthy bark on 3-4). Increasing the rear shock setting from 2 to 5 helped a little, but wheel hop was still excessive. Front shock setting was 2. Next time I'll try changing it to 1.
I was running 30 psi in the rear tires. I plan on lowering that to 24.
 
I have also had the wheel hop issue....WHEN TCS is active. When deactivated I will experience a small amount towards the end when she starts hooking up.
 
If anyone finds a cure, please share with everyone as I am certain that this is a problem for most of us.

I'll continue to ask around on some of the other Mustang forums. My guess is the 5oh guys are seeing the same thing.
 
MrGT5oh said:
If anyone finds a cure, please share with everyone as I am certain that this is a problem for most of us.

I'll continue to ask around on some of the other Mustang forums. My guess is the 5oh guys are seeing the same thing.

My cure for the wheel hop was to change the upper control arm. I replaced the factory UCA with a UPR street adjustable UCA and bracket. The UPR arm still has a rubber bushing, but that bushing is solid, unlike the factory bushing. I kept the LCA's stock Ford. It took car of the wheel hop while drag racing. I have also tracked the car with UPR arm and it appears to not have effected the handling for better or worse. The only bad side effect is there is a lot more NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). I can hear the torsen diff much more than before.
 
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If you're looking to change your upper or lower control arms make sure they have provision for twisting motion. Many of the ones on the market are geared for drag racing where going straight on smooth surface is all they are worried about. When turning and traveling over pumps IE apex curbs you want a trailing arm that doesn't impart an increase in roll resistance. One with a ball type joint at least on one end. J&M makes units like that as do others.
 
06mach1 said:
MrGT5oh said:
If anyone finds a cure, please share with everyone as I am certain that this is a problem for most of us.

I'll continue to ask around on some of the other Mustang forums. My guess is the 5oh guys are seeing the same thing.

My cure for the wheel hop was to change the upper control arm. I replaced the factory UCA with a UPR street adjustable UCA and bracket. The UPR arm still has a rubber bushing, but that bushing is solid, unlike the factory bushing. I kept the LCA's stock Ford. It took car of the wheel hop while drag racing. I have also tracked the car with UPR arm and it appears to not have effected the handling for better or worse. The only bad side effect is there is a lot more NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). I can hear the torsen diff much more than before.

Thanks for the input. I may have to add the adjustable UCA. It's good to know that you haven't noticed any adverse effect while tracking the car since that is one of the main reason why I purchased it. Have you noticed any wheel hop under hard acceleration while exiting a corner in 2nd gear since you replaced the UCA (I have also been experiencing this)?

I was hoping someone had played with the shock and strut adjustments enough and had a good starting point to alleviate the problem. I think that I will take firming up the rear shocks first as YellowJacketBoss302 had suggested.

I can only imagine how bad this is going to be when I get it to the drag strip. It's a good thing that my 91' is my drag car.
 
908ssp said:
If you're looking to change your upper or lower control arms make sure they have provision for twisting motion. Many of the ones on the market are geared for drag racing where going straight on smooth surface is all they are worried about. When turning and traveling over pumps IE apex curbs you want a trailing arm that doesn't impart an increase in roll resistance. One with a ball type joint at least on one end. J&M makes units like that as do others.

Thanks! I will keep that in mind when making my choice. My first thought was to look into Hotchkis as I have been very happy with them on my 91', but I'll check out J&M.
 
After installing the UCA, I have had no wheel hop during take off or during any shift. When on the track, I do have my rear shocks set either 4 or 5.
 
06mach1 said:
After installing the UCA, I have had no wheel hop during take off or during any shift. When on the track, I do have my rear shocks set either 4 or 5.

Which company's UCA did you install?

I have experienced rear wheel hop regardless of ambient temperature. It is much worse on cold days, but it happened to me a few times this summer as well. Pretty much any time I lay into it I get some wheel hop. Shutting off stability control, traction control, or putting the car in sport mode have no effect. I've tried with the rear shocks set to 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1. I've tried running it tight up front and loose in back and vice versa...no change. The rear axle tramps badly under hard acceleration.

My first mod for my Boss is a Roush wheel hop reduction kit. I'll let you know how it goes. I'll probably hook it up in the next few weeks.
 
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12BossKB said:
06mach1 said:
After installing the UCA, I have had no wheel hop during take off or during any shift. When on the track, I do have my rear shocks set either 4 or 5.

Which company's UCA did you install?

I have experienced rear wheel hop regardless of ambient temperature. It is much worse on cold days, but it happened to me a few times this summer as well. Pretty much any time I lay into it I get some wheel hop. Shutting off stability control, traction control, or putting the car in sport mode have no effect. I've tried with the rear shocks set to 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1. I've tried running it tight up front and loose in back and vice versa...no change. The rear axle tramps badly under hard acceleration.

My first mod for my Boss is a Roush wheel hop reduction kit. I'll let you know how it goes. I'll probably hook it up in the next few weeks.

I'd be very interested to hear how the Roush piece works out for you.
Others have mentioned on this forum that the wheel hop issue is not so bad on the track.
I'd be very curious to hear from other tracked-302 drivers about wheel hop on the track (road track, not drag strip).
Thanks..
 
lbp said:
I'd be very interested to hear how the Roush piece works out for you.
Others have mentioned on this forum that the wheel hop issue is not so bad on the track.
I'd be very curious to hear from other tracked-302 drivers about wheel hop on the track (road track, not drag strip).
Thanks..
I've had wheel hop on the street spinning the rear wheels but none on the track. The rear of the car is very well planted on the track and way beyond my expectations. It hooks up very well. I think the Torsen diff is sprinkled in magic pixie dust or something. ;)

Which is more important in controlling wheel hop, the UCA's or LCA's? I was talking to a guy as a shop and he was pushing me towards replacing the LCA's.
 
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5 DOT 0 said:
lbp said:
I'd be very interested to hear how the Roush piece works out for you.
Others have mentioned on this forum that the wheel hop issue is not so bad on the track.
I'd be very curious to hear from other tracked-302 drivers about wheel hop on the track (road track, not drag strip).
Thanks..
I've had wheel hop on the street spinning the rear wheels but none on the track. The rear of the car is very well planted on the track and way beyond my expectations. It hooks up very well. I think the Torsen diff is sprinkled in magic pixie dust or something. ;)

Which is more important in controlling wheel hop, the UCA's or LCA's? I was talking to a guy as a shop and he was pushing me towards replacing the LCA's.

I won't be competing this car, but if launched off the grid, as is, sure seems it'll get hammered...
 
5 DOT 0 said:
lbp said:
I'd be very interested to hear how the Roush piece works out for you.
Others have mentioned on this forum that the wheel hop issue is not so bad on the track.
I'd be very curious to hear from other tracked-302 drivers about wheel hop on the track (road track, not drag strip).
Thanks..
I've had wheel hop on the street spinning the rear wheels but none on the track. The rear of the car is very well planted on the track and way beyond my expectations. It hooks up very well. I think the Torsen diff is sprinkled in magic pixie dust or something. ;)

Which is more important in controlling wheel hop, the UCA's or LCA's? I was talking to a guy as a shop and he was pushing me towards replacing the LCA's.
On the GT500s it seemed to depend on the car or the driver. Many replaced both. The shop may be pushing the lowers because they're easier to do ;D You have to pull the rear seat to get to the UCA bolt and drop the diff.

I've had no issues with wheel hop on the road course whatsoever. Controlling them on the street just requires modulating your right foot. Those Pierellis are expensive ;) If you're spinning you're not going faster :D
 
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cloud9 said:
5 DOT 0 said:
lbp said:
I'd be very interested to hear how the Roush piece works out for you.
Others have mentioned on this forum that the wheel hop issue is not so bad on the track.
I'd be very curious to hear from other tracked-302 drivers about wheel hop on the track (road track, not drag strip).
Thanks..
I've had wheel hop on the street spinning the rear wheels but none on the track. The rear of the car is very well planted on the track and way beyond my expectations. It hooks up very well. I think the Torsen diff is sprinkled in magic pixie dust or something. ;)

Which is more important in controlling wheel hop, the UCA's or LCA's? I was talking to a guy as a shop and he was pushing me towards replacing the LCA's.
On the GT500s it seemed to depend on the car or the driver. Many replaced both. The shop may be pushing the lowers because they're easier to do ;D You have to pull the rear seat to get to the UCA bolt and drop the diff.

I've had no issues with wheel hop on the road course whatsoever. Controlling them on the street just requires modulating your right foot. Those Pierellis are expensive ;) If you're spinning you're not going faster :D

All good points & thanks for the info.
...Hopefully, the Pirellis won't see the track!! ;D
 
I have not experienced wheel hop but it does get more spin than I thought, particularly 1st to 2nd, even with the Traction Control on. Turned it off just to check, and did get a little hop (again 1st to 2nd), but a LOT more wheel spin. I do not have Track Key installed, but wondered if putting in Sport mode for steering may be adjusting the traction control some.

I don't experience a change in engine power, no cutout I mean (except when I keep accidentally hitting the Rev Limit :)), so I am assuming it is trying to control through the ABS system. If that's the case, they did a damn good job programming the algorithm for it! It is definitely doing some control, but sure doesn't slow anything down!
 
Do both Upper and Lower and if you intend to lower it get the adjustable upper.
My 07 GT500 -551 RWHP. First I put Steeda LCA's on it and the hop was significantly reduced. But I wanted it completely gone. Remember those sat up in the rear way too much. I also wanted the rear down level with the front. I put Eibach springs on it 15 lbs heavier than stock. Because I lowered it I had to put the Steeda adjustable UCA on to get the pinion angle correct. All the hop was gone. I then put a Fays 2 Watts link on it and the handling was a whole lot better. Not a complete Griggs or ford racing but a low budget set up that worked pretty well. The car had a ton of torque and power which was a blast but IMO it was a fat heavy pig.

I got rid of it and built a 2011 performance package V6 car with Supercharger and supporting mods. 432 RWHP Same wheel hop. Put Hot part LCA's and Steeda UCA on and it was gone. Installed the watts link and didn't notice an improvement like I did on the 500. Funny thing this car is more balanced and handles way better than the 500 and is damn near as fast. Weight= 450 lbs lighter.

BUT- As a former owner of 2 1970 Boss 302's I got to get another one. Deal is pretty much worked out.

Ya I'm Nuts. Hope the above helped answer you question.
 

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