Fitment issues w/ M-6881-M50A oil line adapter?

[sldghmr]

There is always one that will make you question everything . Went back through the photos of all the ones i had collected from this site and did a quick internet search. Most of the photos were side connect on here but the general consensus was side or top with regards to air locks being alleviated. With most setups the hoses drop down to the bottom of the cooler level before going back up to the filter /thermostat housing so i don't think it makes a difference to getting the air out any easier. As long as the cooler fills from the bottom or side and pushes the air in its natural direction the pump will eventually be responsible for forcing the air out.

I agree w/this 100%. Most of the cooler setups I've seen have the hoses on the side (it's easier routing to boot!) My reasoning for putting mine on top was that I had a oil leak right at the pan/block seal. My thought was my pan holds 11.5-12qts (GT500 pan), oil cooler 1qt, plus whatever the hoses add up to. I was guessing that seal wasn't the best AND the cooler was leaning it's 1-1.25qts on the pan seal as well....moving connections to the top would alleviate that (orrrrr I could have just got a check valve)

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Your other statement about drain back however does make more sense so have just googled a -12AN check valve. Looking at my picture above the cooler only has about 30ish% above the thermostat housing. Depending on individual setup, others may be more of an issue. I'm definitely going to have a look into it though.

To be honest i'm more concerned about my hose connection integrity than any thing else. Had a hose end let go while testing the new install. Engine running for 15-20 minutes and the cooler was only warm on the bottom (sideways connected) and slowly transmitting heat upwards, was wondering if i didn't have enough flow/ pressure to get rid of the air quickly enough so sat in the car and held 3k rpm to add a bit of flow to the system. Thankfully was paying attention and heard what sounded like a waterfall and my brain went crap and hit the off button. Probably about a second in the panic of it all.
Now i'm paranoid about the rest of my connections. Do you guys use crimped fittings or have been fine with the normal self assembled hoses? Have been using 100 series AN fittings from a reputable brand here in Australia. Contemplating redoing all the connections and seeing if i can get them pressure tested.

Just redo the one that leaked....all of mine are homemade, and I know I lost about 2lbs just sweating from worrying over them. Redo that one, make sure you get the hose all the way up in there, lube the nipple, slide it in there good and far, get the threads engaged and start twisting. Turn it by hand, then when you can't hand turn it anymore grab a wrench. Then show it whose boss until the gap matches the others. (wow, after reading that I REALLY hope my mom is not on this forum LOL)

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When it comes to oil capacity pre water cooled 911's take the cake. We used to do 16 litres for a service oil change and 20 litres from dry after a rebuild. Then dump that after 1000km run in for its first service/checkover. Mobil 1, the oil bill was significant. My "last" upgrade next is a GT500 sump. "Last", who are we kidding.

16 liters??? OMG! That's probably what a 18 wheeler takes?!?!? (sorry, don't know the name for 18 wheelers in Australia )

 

[GAR944]

I agree w/this 100%. Most of the cooler setups I've seen have the hoses on the side (it's easier routing to boot!) My reasoning for putting mine on top was that I had a oil leak right at the pan/block seal. My thought was my pan holds 11.5-12qts (GT500 pan), oil cooler 1qt, plus whatever the hoses add up to. I was guessing that seal wasn't the best AND the cooler was leaning it's 1-1.25qts on the pan seal as well....moving connections to the top would alleviate that (orrrrr I could have just got a check valve)

Just redo the one that leaked....all of mine are homemade, and I know I lost about 2lbs just sweating from worrying over them. Redo that one, make sure you get the hose all the way up in there, lube the nipple, slide it in there good and far, get the threads engaged and start twisting. Turn it by hand, then when you can't hand turn it anymore grab a wrench. Then show it whose boss until the gap matches the others. (wow, after reading that I REALLY hope my mom is not on this forum LOL)

16 liters??? OMG! That's probably what a 18 wheeler takes?!?!? (sorry, don't know the name for 18 wheelers in Australia )

Cool Mom if she is on this forum. My first motorsport experience was with a cool lady who punted an early 911 harder than her husband, when she said jump in the passenger seat, i just did as i was told.
Half way through remaking the hose and using as little lube as possible, removed the tape from the end that holds the cloth together when putting the end on. This one hose is going to take longer than the rest combined. Getting the old one out is a pain, the orb fitting turns first and the elbow then hits. Alternator back out again. And bloody oil everywhere.

 

[Dave_W]

You could probably create your own test kit from a couple fittings that let you use compressed air to pressurize the hose assembly. Here's an example, though you likely don't need all the sizes in this kit (scroll down the page for a video on testing an assembly) -https://www.holley.com/products/plu...uc5EdM27u0tIKxqRHbCxVdyGbFLMr5il-pLsMSObeq7C5

 

[GAR944]

You could probably create your own test kit from a couple fittings that let you use compressed air to pressurize the hose assembly. Here's an example, though you likely don't need all the sizes in this kit (scroll down the page for a video on testing an assembly) -https://www.holley.com/products/plu...uc5EdM27u0tIKxqRHbCxVdyGbFLMr5il-pLsMSObeq7C5

Was actually watching a video of exactly that process when the TMO notification popped up. He even mentioned the exact same test kit.

 

[5.2 liters of democracy]

I have that exact test kit and it worked perfectly!