Fitment issues w/ M-6881-M50A oil line adapter?

[sldghmr]

I have. It sent me down a rabbit hole of getting better at CAD so I could fix it. I mostly mimicked Ford's design and it even uses Ford's OEM gasket. @navseng used the CAD model to make a custom dry sump version for @honeybadger a few months back. I've been meaning to get a new wet sump model over to Brian for a while now. I could work with him on a couple and send one your way if you're interested and if he still has the time.

Here's what the first prototype looked like:

View attachment 96492View attachment 96493View attachment 96494

Sorry for the late response...been doing work (actual work unfortunately)...this would be awesome if I could get a hold of one of those! Looks like it would put the hose end fittings in an even better orientation than the FRPP piece

 

[sldghmr]

I also considered this but would need somewhere to tap for the pressure

Oil Cooler Adapter Fitting Kit

Capaldi Racing Ford performance parts authorized distributor.

shopcapaldiracing.com

Warren....you could get oil pressure and temp from the remote oil filter mount...at least that's my plan (coming soon). It will allow me to get rid of that T-fitting and plug the factory oil pressure sensor into the the 1/8th NPT port, which should make even more space to wrench on the [larger than snot!] -12AN hose ends....

 

[biggsy]

So I emailed Improved Racing yesterday to see if they made revision to the pressure port angle to prevent alternator clearance issues. They replied that yes they have an updated adapter going into production in August. I then asked if they will keep the -10 port and this is the response I got

 

[5.2 liters of democracy]

So I emailed Improved Racing yesterday to see if they made revision to the pressure port angle to prevent alternator clearance issues. They replied that yes they have an updated adapter going into production in August. I then asked if they will keep the -10 port and this is the response I got

View attachment 96589

Unfortunately that doesn't really solve the issue of flow reduction where the remote oil block meets the engine block. They're still -10 according to their website so the oil flow will be blocked partially by the remote block still. The ports on the engine block are a little over 19mm. A -10 will have a ~4mm smaller diameter than that which basically gets you back to the same issue the Ford unit's poor fitment causes. Unfortunately the only way around around that is to use a -12 since it is the same size as the holes on the engine block.

Again, I'd just like to say I'm paranoid from losing an engine to oiling already haha. I have no skin in this game as I'm not looking to make anything off the one I made. Whatever Brian's cost is will be the total cost for the block. I'm not looking to make a profit, just fix a problem I found.

 

[sldghmr]

@5.2 liters of democracy .... I'm paranoid as well! Seeing what my oil pressure has been doing has me checking every last inch of the system...I just can't believe that FR doesn't know about this!

 

[5.2 liters of democracy]

@5.2 liters of democracy .... I'm paranoid as well! Seeing what my oil pressure has been doing has me checking every last inch of the system...I just can't believe that FR doesn't know about this!

I reached out to Ford after testing two different units and my messages were ignored sadly. Sadly there's a lot of poor fitment for parts like this, both OEM and aftermarket.

I can get why companies do -10 and not -12. With the -10 there's nothing special you need to do to have two fittings next to each other. With the -12, you have to offset one of them diagonally to make it fit. On top of that, you then have to figure out how your oil pressure sensor will fit with it all. It took me 27 3D prints at various steps of the process to make it properly.

With that being said, I can edit the model for anyone that needs something different. For instance, Kevin's only needed one port since he has a dry sump and we also changed the oil pressure sensor port size. It was a much better option than plugging one and hoping it doesn't back out. Sadly I saw that happen at Big Willow once but fortunately they got the engine shut off in time.

 

[captdistraction]

good to know on the backing out bit - I have two of the FRPP ones here for my dry sump motors. Guess its safety wire time.

That said, I could be interested in a single port one if it were available.

 

[sldghmr]

I'm definitely interested in a 2 port....after 15 iterations, I finally figured out the hose fittings that work for me
...and I don't see a dry sump in my near future....

 

[5.2 liters of democracy]

I'll send Brian a message about both of them and let you guys know!

 

[GAR944]

I'm the next sucker going down this path and have a few queries for the brains trust.
First off, you guys are lucky you don't have the right hand drive version as you have to get rid of all this crap first.

1st question, i assume the orb fittings that came with the unit are fine to use? or should the dash end be used given the housing has been machined with the appropriate matching chamfer internally. Seems a silly question but i'd rather ask.



The reason specifically is if the orb end is used then surely i can open up the back of the housing into the chamfered area without affecting anything?

I ask because i dont know what i dont know so would rather ask on a critical component.
@captdistraction mentioned earlier they spent time porting the units so i'm assuming this is exactly what he meant?

Thanks in advance for any input. Time zones should work in my favour so i can get back onto it tomorrow night.

And if anyone has some pics of there remote oil filter location showing the lines running to it i'd appreciate a heads up. Most obvious spot is on the chassis rail behind the inner fender liner.
Have the other end mounted so getting close to sorting out fittings and lines so ideas for routing would be helpful.

 

[captdistraction]

yes, we removed material on that side to align it to the block inlet (and cleaned up the casting on the block inlet as well)

 

[sldghmr]

I'm the next sucker going down this path and have a few queries for the brains trust.
First off, you guys are lucky you don't have the right hand drive version as you have to get rid of all this crap first.
View attachment 99718
1st question, i assume the orb fittings that came with the unit are fine to use? or should the dash end be used given the housing has been machined with the appropriate matching chamfer internally. Seems a silly question but i'd rather ask.

The reason specifically is if the orb end is used then surely i can open up the back of the housing into the chamfered area without affecting anything?

I ask because i dont know what i dont know so would rather ask on a critical component.
@captdistraction mentioned earlier they spent time porting the units so i'm assuming this is exactly what he meant?

Thanks in advance for any input. Time zones should work in my favour so i can get back onto it tomorrow night.

And if anyone has some pics of there remote oil filter location showing the lines running to it i'd appreciate a heads up. Most obvious spot is on the chassis rail behind the inner fender liner.
Have the other end mounted so getting close to sorting out fittings and lines so ideas for routing would be helpful.

GAR .... what in the flim-flam-f**k is that thing in the first picture???? Looks like a total nightmare....

I'll hopefully be able to get a pic of my remote oil filter mounting this weekend. And, yes, I put mine on the chassis rail behind (where my inner fender liner used to be)....I've also got a home drawn diagram around here somewhere....

 

[5.2 liters of democracy]

I have a video of how mine was routed. I will be making some changes, but the general idea is there. I'll try to remember to upload it and send it to you tonight.

 

[GAR944]

yes, we removed material on that side to align it to the block inlet (and cleaned up the casting on the block inlet as well)
View attachment 99751View attachment 99752View attachment 99750

Awesome, i have die grinded the back and internals on the angled outlet to provide a more direct flow path. Can poke a little finger cleanly through the passage now.
Unfortunately cant touch the block as its in the car. One day maybe.

 

[GAR944]

GAR .... what in the flim-flam-f**k is that thing in the first picture???? Looks like a total nightmare....

I'll hopefully be able to get a pic of my remote oil filter mounting this weekend. And, yes, I put mine on the chassis rail behind (where my inner fender liner used to be)....I've also got a home drawn diagram around here somewhere....

That is the joy of having the steering on the RIGHT side. Had to get a US left hand engine support bracket as well. So much nicer with all that crap gone. Could even get to the last stud on the headers that i couldn't put a nut on caus it was totally inaccessible.
Had a good session under the car last night and think i can get the hoses to work with it here. About to go see a guy about some -12 fittings and fingers crossed.

 

[GAR944]

Quick question about oil flow direction in the cooler, in at the top and out the bottom or opposite.
In at the bottom would push any air out I would think. And there lies the problem, me thinking and not knowing, thanks yet again in advance.

 

[biggsy]

Quick question about oil flow direction in the cooler, in at the top and out the bottom or opposite.
In at the bottom would push any air out I would think. And there lies the problem, me thinking and not knowing, thanks yet again in advance.

You are right. In at the bottom. That would allow air bubbles to go to the top

 

[5.2 liters of democracy]

I actually had mine routed the opposite. I was IN at the top and OUT on the bottom. I'll be reversing it when I get my oiling system revised so my video won't actually be too much help. That will also make routing -12 lines easier too.

 

[sldghmr]

Quick question about oil flow direction in the cooler, in at the top and out the bottom or opposite.
In at the bottom would push any air out I would think. And there lies the problem, me thinking and not knowing, thanks yet again in advance.

I was told that both IN and OUT lines on top was the preferred orientation. My guess is air is at the top and would go into the pan easier?? Also, cooler would stay full/fuller and not give a false reading on the dipstick....made running the -12an lines a little more tricky. All I know is at 12-14qts of oil, I feel like 1/3 of the car weight is in the oil system/pan!! Thought only diesel trucks took that much oil....

 

[GAR944]

I was told that both IN and OUT lines on top was the preferred orientation. My guess is air is at the top and would go into the pan easier?? Also, cooler would stay full/fuller and not give a false reading on the dipstick....made running the -12an lines a little more tricky. All I know is at 12-14qts of oil, I feel like 1/3 of the car weight is in the oil system/pan!! Thought only diesel trucks took that much oil.

There is always one that will make you question everything . Went back through the photos of all the ones i had collected from this site and did a quick internet search. Most of the photos were side connect on here but the general consensus was side or top with regards to air locks being alleviated. With most setups the hoses drop down to the bottom of the cooler level before going back up to the filter /thermostat housing so i don't think it makes a difference to getting the air out any easier. As long as the cooler fills from the bottom or side and pushes the air in its natural direction the pump will eventually be responsible for forcing the air out.


Your other statement about drain back however does make more sense so have just googled a -12AN check valve. Looking at my picture above the cooler only has about 30ish% above the thermostat housing. Depending on individual setup, others may be more of an issue. I'm definitely going to have a look into it though.

To be honest i'm more concerned about my hose connection integrity than any thing else. Had a hose end let go while testing the new install. Engine running for 15-20 minutes and the cooler was only warm on the bottom (sideways connected) and slowly transmitting heat upwards, was wondering if i didn't have enough flow/ pressure to get rid of the air quickly enough so sat in the car and held 3k rpm to add a bit of flow to the system. Thankfully was paying attention and heard what sounded like a waterfall and my brain went crap and hit the off button. Probably about a second in the panic of it all.
Now i'm paranoid about the rest of my connections. Do you guys use crimped fittings or have been fine with the normal self assembled hoses? Have been using 100 series AN fittings from a reputable brand here in Australia. Contemplating redoing all the connections and seeing if i can get them pressure tested.

When it comes to oil capacity pre water cooled 911's take the cake. We used to do 16 litres for a service oil change and 20 litres from dry after a rebuild. Then dump that after 1000km run in for its first service/checkover. Mobil 1, the oil bill was significant. My "last" upgrade next is a GT500 sump. "Last", who are we kidding.