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S550 HPDE 2017 Mustang GT PP Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

thelostotter

TMO Intermediate
14
12
Arizona
Tuned, but the only time I ever heard my car ping was with the Ford Power Pack 2 tune which I removed from my car when I installed the headers in 2018. I believe the ring land damage initiated when I was running that tune.
 

thelostotter

TMO Intermediate
14
12
Arizona
That's somewhat surprising to me. The Coyote's do a pretty good job of pulling timing on their own when knock is detected. I'd love to see the minimum timing table for the PP2 tune.
It would ping pretty bad during high load conditions immediately after loading the tune but the car would eventually "learn" the fuel and driving conditions because the knock would go away after a few miles. The octane adjust option didn't really do anything.

There are numerous people who've complained about spark knock with those power pack tunes and I wish I would have just avoided it entirely.
 

thelostotter

TMO Intermediate
14
12
Arizona
So I picked up my freshly machined block from the engine shop a couple weeks ago but didn't make any progress due to being out of town last weekend. So after work on Friday I've basically been at it nonstop.

No more cylinder scoring! The block was honed .010" over, the deck was skimmed, and the main journals were align honed.
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I supplied my engine builder with King XP rod and main bearings and had him check all the clearances. He balanced the crank for the new Manley H-beam rods and Wiseco pistons and then polished it. The only clearance I had the ability to double check was the crank end play which came out at 0.0045" which is less than I was expecting based on the Ford manual stating "0.0110 MAX". I measured the stock thrust bearings and they measured the same as the King bearings and Ford doesn't list a minimum so I moved on.
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My fingers were sore after doing 8 sets of circlips.
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Short block went together with no hiccups.
IMG_9114.JPG


I replaced the rear main seal and pressed the new seal into the cover plate deep enough that it covered all the witness marks of the original so I was surprised to see the seal extending out past the crank flange. I looked at the stock pulse ring and it had witness marks that were the exact diameter as the seal so I guess it is intentional. I'm surprised it doesn't melt during operation. At least it's replaceable with the engine in the car if I have issues.
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Got the Moroso pan bolted up and turned the engine over to work on the heads and get the new GT350R phasers and L&M intake cams timed. I used new followers and the GT350R lash adjusters.
It is hard to see in this picture but the machinist knocked out the oil galley plugs to clean the block out so I had to install new ones. The replacement from Ford was way too loose so I went to a few different auto parts stores and of course no one has the correct thing. I got a very slightly larger one from NAPA and sanded down to OD a bit. This ended up being super hard to get installed so I went back to the Ford plug and used my vise to slightly "squish" it so that the OD swelled up. I installed it with some retaining compound. It wasn't as much of a press fit as I wanted and I've read of these loosening up on here. So I sanded the NAPA one a bit more and installed it on top of the first one. This ended up working perfectly as it was a very tight fit and it was the perfect length to sit perfectly flush with the hole so these plugs can never back out. The rear oil galley plug fit fine but I used a random nut with some RTV to fill the void to prevent it from ever being able to back out.
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One thing that annoyed me was my new secondary cam chain tensioners were not the same as the original ones so I was stuck using the stock ones. This was one of the very few things that didn't get replaced. I used the FP chain sliders.
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And here is the finished long block. I installed the FP high strength VCT solenoids but they look identical to the original ones. I decided to leave the GT500 valve covers off and cover it until I get some oil as I want to drench the valve train just in case any debris or dust settled in there while I was working. Probably not needed as I kept everything clean but it will make me feel better. I still need to drill and tap a plug to insert my oil temp sensor on the the diver side of the pan where the oil level sensor would go if my car had one.
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thelostotter

TMO Intermediate
14
12
Arizona
Hey, don't forget to torque your crank bolt.

JK, looks great!
The crank bolt and oil filter adapter are the only things left, I made sure I don't forget!

Today I drilled and tapped a M20-1.5 drain plug to install my oil temp sensor in the pan. Then I bolted up the GT500 valve covers and filled it with oil. It took 10 qts, no leaks but I'm not sure the oil reaches above the oil pan gasket 🤷‍♂️. Should be around 11.5 once installed and the oil filter and oil cooler and lines fill.

Tomorrow I'll clean up the wiring harness and get it installed.

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