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I’ve Lost Some Boost, Scratching My Head

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8
9
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Central Texas
Car is a 2010 GT with built block and Kenne Bell 2.6. Was making 12lbs when I dropped it off and now only 10lbs after picking it up. Recently had the car in for a few minor upgrades; replaced radiator (warranty swap), bigger heat exchanger, new fuel pump, and wideband gauge install.
Doesn’t seem to me that any of these things would directly impact boost. But I’m not a master mechanic. Please help

Note, I’ve ruled out belt slippage, the boost needle pegs at 10lbs and isn’t bouncing around at all.
 
1,249
1,243
In the V6L
Car is a 2010 GT with built block and Kenne Bell 2.6. Was making 12lbs when I dropped it off and now only 10lbs after picking it up. Recently had the car in for a few minor upgrades; replaced radiator (warranty swap), bigger heat exchanger, new fuel pump, and wideband gauge install.
Doesn’t seem to me that any of these things would directly impact boost. But I’m not a master mechanic. Please help

Note, I’ve ruled out belt slippage, the boost needle pegs at 10lbs and isn’t bouncing around at all.
If the belt's not slipping then your engine is getting the same amount of air and fuel as it previously was, and the same air and fuel means it's producing the same horsepower. The lower backpressure ("boost") is probably caused by the new intercooler. As air is compressed in the supercharger, it heats up. When the intercooler cools it back down, the pressure in the manifold drops. The old intercooler didn't cool it as much as the new one does, so the intake air temp and intake air pressure were higher with the old one. Same volume of air (and fuel), lower temperature ==> lower backpressure ("boost"). If you have an IAT gauge, it'll tell you how much cooler the intake charge is.
 
8
9
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Central Texas
Thank you all for the replies, and putting me at ease. New H/e is much larger and more efficient, and IATs are lower. I didn’t have this knowledge and thought something was really wrong here. Anyway, appreciate you guys. Now that I’ve calmed down, got a dyno day planned and a few different size pullies on the way.
 
8
9
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Central Texas
(This might be long)
Alright, so after a couple delays with scheduling I got a couple parts upgrades and finally got the car tuned. Car is making exactly one pound less boost, but after tuning is much faster, pulls very hard!! Unsure if power was the same (at less boost) as it was after the intercooler change, because this new shop has a different dyno than what the cars always been tuned/tested on. Numbers follow, enjoy!

The car was always tuned on a Mustang Dyno, today it was done on DynoJet. Shop owner told me beforehand his dyno is a heartbreaker, people get higher numbers everywhere else. Gonna do this as a list, so it’s easier to follow (discussion after):

Mustang dyno:
1. When i first installed the Kenne Bell on stock block 476whp/412tq

2. Built a lower compression engine, added 2lbs of boost 469whp/410tq

DynoJet (today):
1. Base run 413whp/391tq (holy shiznit that’s bad, I thought to myself)

2. Added 130mm TB and replaced MAF with Cobra housing and sensor 455whp/419tq

3. Tuner tweaked it a bit 463whp/421tq

4. Last run, was beyond heat soaked at this point so we called it a day

Now, when i street tested it, it’s faster. Like quite a bit faster! Even heat soaked. So, I can’t complain, but I have questions. I understand that the dyno is simply a tool to see gains through upgrades and down tune things, but is there a way to compare the Mustang Dyno and DynoJet? Like 500hp on Mustang is equal to XXXhp on DynoJet?

In my head, I see the 56whp difference between dynos, and think I can add that to my old number to get what the Mustang Dyno would read today. So 463+56=519whp in my universe LOL.

Ass-dyno is all I really care about, and it’s good, but this seems like a fun discussion for the “smart” dudes in here
 

PatientZero

@restless_performance
824
866
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
I understand that the dyno is simply a tool to see gains through upgrades and down tune things

Comparing runs on the same dyno days apart isn't always accurate. Comparing runs on different types of dyno's is worthless. The tuner can mess with the weather station on the dyno, they can fudge vehicle weight, etc. There are multiple ways to tamper with the accuracy of a dyno to make yourself look good or to impress your customer. As long as the car is running good don't worry about the numbers. My car "made" less power with a bigger cam on a dynojet than it did with a smaller cam on a Mustang dyno. There is no way to compare them accurately unless you dyno'd the same car back to back on both dynos.
 
8
9
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Central Texas
Comparing runs on the same dyno days apart isn't always accurate. Comparing runs on different types of dyno's is worthless. The tuner can mess with the weather station on the dyno, they can fudge vehicle weight, etc. There are multiple ways to tamper with the accuracy of a dyno to make yourself look good or to impress your customer. As long as the car is running good don't worry about the numbers. My car "made" less power with a bigger cam on a dynojet than it did with a smaller cam on a Mustang dyno. There is no way to compare them accurately unless you dyno'd the same car back to back on both dynos.
Yessir! The hypothetical comparison question is all in fun. The car is pulling harder than ever, by a lot! And that’s all that really matters. One, or both, of these machines have definitely been “tampered” with lol.
At any rate, I’m happy. For now. Time to start planning for more boost….
 
8
9
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Central Texas
Either way you're putting down roughly 200 more hp to the wheels than stock! Very impressive!

Don't forget to do a vehicle profile. It will auto generate a build thread. We want to see this beast.


And more power to come. Hopefully soon!
Filled out the vehicle profile, I THINK i did it right
 

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