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k member questions

for a road race only car, never drag or street driven, would there be a specific tubular k member you would run versus any other? looking to help ahead a few pounds and also free up some room for headers ext.


leaning towards a bar piece right now


in this type of car is it even desired? are these k members going to be a little weak or will they hold up fine?



steve
 
Kenny Brown makes nice quality pieces. Not sure how much weight it actually saves but give them a call.

http://www.kennybrown.com/press/kenny-brown-light-weight-tubular-k-member-2005-2013-mustang-and-shelby-gt500

49610-15%20SMALL.jpg
 
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1
KB ones are known to fail.
The shelby forums talk about this in detail. I'll dig up the link when I have the chance.

The problem with introducing more anti dive is that the arms and sub frame takes the load instead of the springs...so the k member and arms both need to be beefed up. With a geometry altering piece like the KB one, you don't want to swing too far into the light weight realm of things...but it seems that this was the case for their system.
 
Running a BMR K member with OEM A arms. Even with all the vertical change in some of the courses here in Germany, its fine.
 
I found this after researching older forums and found it on the Shelby forums. One of the best mods I've done for my car.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-208.htm
 
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Found the thread I was referencing re: Kenny Brown K member.

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/77903-kenny-brown-susension/page-3

As for me personally, I would not go the Kenny Brown route for that component.
 
thanks.
i new something wasn't right with the kenny brown piece. i will be staying away from the part.
i am still leaning on the bar piece. i have yet to find one broken or very many bad posts regarding it.

maybe ill be the test mule
 
Boss949 said:
I found this after researching older forums and found it on the Shelby forums. One of the best mods I've done for my car.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-208.htm

Do you use this in addition to the factory K member or does this replace the factory K member?
 
We'll
I'm going to be the pig on this one
Just swung a deal on a complete k member lower adjustable
Rod end type control arms. Radiates support bracket and extra k member bracing saved about five hundred bucks or more on it after shipping.

I think the parts are going to work right now. I will be keeping a close eye on them though. At my request I am not powder coating the k member or the a arms. I'll spray bomb them once they arrive


Steve
 
I would be careful driving with those spherical arms if you ever drive your car on the street. Whose kit did you go with?
 
cars not a street car. one of the reasons i am not powder coating the parts is so i can see cracks when or if they appear.
i am going the bmr route. i liked the answers i got from them and the new a arms are adjustable enough that i feel ill gain in geometry.

steve
 
None has been proven reliable for road race track use and forums reported both KB and BMR failures...
Maximum Motorsport is currently testing one of their own and it should come up early this year but will it better than OEM?
The Boss OEM is not bad at all IMO.
The same goes for the frt. lower arms...
 
I was aware of some previous issues
I think im going to try it out still
I lnow it might fail thats why i am not coating parts
I wanna know if there is going to be a crack
 
seca954 said:
Do you use this in addition to the factory K member or does this replace the factory K member?

Sorry it has taken so long for me to reply; must have overlooked.

We replaced the factory K member brace. The factory is like a pencil compared to the CHE.

Edit thanks to PatrickShelby
 
Do you guys really get positive effect from BMR K-member ?

I've been running BMR K-member for a month. But I don't think it's worth to have. I will get back to stock one in this weekend. Because it is less reliability and I couldn't get positive effect from BMR's one. 20lbs weight and "stiffness" loss doesn't effect on track time for me.

Almost all of the people who are in track said that pinion rack mount bolts are usually under severe condition but its nut wasn't welded. Many Japanese reinforces their K-member welding braces for solid handling, no one get weight loss from K-member.

But most of them also said if you weld the nut, it's worth to have ;)
 
Brandon302 said:
I would be careful driving with those spherical arms if you ever drive your car on the street. Whose kit did you go with?
What is wrong with the spherical arms? I know some earlier A-Arms failed (as far as I know mostly on GT500 ) but the new versions which are tall ball joints are much stronger. Also why did you warn about the street and not the track? Would not track use put more pressure on the arms?
 

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