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S197 Kiwi Track Rat's Boss 302 resurrection Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

Some interesting things we are learning as we go along, would someone be able to confirm what their radiator upper shield part number is on their 2013 or 2014 GT / Boss?

I ordered BR3Z-8C291-AA as that seemed to be the correct part when I followed the parts diagrams (Part "3" Here) However it's not the correct part. Interestingly when you look at that parts listing the images with the diagram of the part look correct, but the picture of the part is different (for instance no indent at the rear for the coolant expansion tank hose). What I have is like the image, not the diagram.
Given they changed the nose for 2013, you'd be looking for a part number that starts in 'D', which appears to be DR3Z-8C291-AA on the Ford Parts website. I'm sure someone else can verify, as I don't have a 2013-2014 car, but that's what the official Ford parts website is bringing up (and google images of 2013-2014 engine bays match the below picture). The 'A' part prefix started in 2010, so you can go through the alphabet as the years go on. The letter prefix will be the year the new design started, so a 'D' part can still be on a 2014.

2010-2012, 'AR3Z' version
2011.PNG
2013-2014, 'DR3Z' version
2013.PNG
 
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79
138
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Auckland New Zealand
The bottom one you pictured is the correct one we need, interestingly the one supplied to us as being correct for this car by vin was part BR3Z 8C291 AA which as you can see is different to both the ones you posted so really have no idea what this one supposedly fits.
IMG20211104100555.jpg
 
The bottom one you pictured is the correct one we need, interestingly the one supplied to us as being correct for this car by vin was part BR3Z 8C291 AA which as you can see is different to both the ones you posted so really have no idea what this one supposedly fits.
View attachment 69845

What you received is for the Shelby version (design starting with the 2010MY). The 2013 'stole' the front appearance of the Shelby, but some of the parts aren't exactly the same.

Shelby.PNG
 
I think I may have figured out why this happened. The original front was designed in 2010 and therefore carries an AR3Z number. Ford Parts website sees the 2010-2012 part as AR3Z-8C291-AA to this day. Since the Shelby version was also designed in 2010, it also carried an AR3Z number, AR3Z-8C291-AB. However, they made a revision to it for the 2011MY (pictures from press release imagery in 2010 of the original GT500 AR3Z -AB part and the Ford parts website for the BR3Z -AA revision show some minor changes), determined that the 2011 GTs were still using the AR3Z part and gave it just the normal BR3Z AA variant designation (rather than -AB variant). BR3Z-8C291-AA is indeed intended for the Shelby version. So the item and sticker on your package is correct. It's just that the dealer-network parts website has the compatibility mislabeled, unfortunately. Sometimes these part# searches can be a nightmare, but glad we could find what you needed. The Ford Parts website is almost perfect, but omits the header (AR3Z) and the variant (-A, -B, etc) and only lists the part numbers (8C291) themselves, even though it will take the full code as a search query and will work, which helps confirm numbers from guesses or other websites. Based on the D(Model Year)R3(Mustang Platform)Z(Parts Department) naming convention + part number, we can usually figure out the entire part number sequence. Not necessarily important as a follow up now that you already have the right number, but it's always fun to solve a mystery. Good luck with the build! I'm amazed with how fast it's coming together.
 
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49
107
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Auckland, New Zealand
I think I may have figured out why this happened. The original front was designed in 2010 and therefore carries an AR3Z number. Ford Parts website sees the 2010-2012 part as AR3Z-8C291-AA to this day. Since the Shelby version was also designed in 2010, it also carried an AR3Z number, AR3Z-8C291-AB. However, they made a revision to it for the 2011MY (pictures from press release imagery in 2010 of the original GT500 AR3Z -AB part and the Ford parts website for the BR3Z -AA revision show some minor changes), determined that the 2011 GTs were still using the AR3Z part and gave it just the normal BR3Z AA variant designation (rather than -AB variant). BR3Z-8C291-AA is indeed intended for the Shelby version. So the item and sticker on your package is correct. It's just that the dealer-network parts website has the compatibility mislabeled, unfortunately. Sometimes these part# searches can be a nightmare, but glad we could find what you needed. The Ford Parts website is almost perfect, but omits the header (AR3Z) and the variant (-A, -B, etc) and only lists the part numbers (8C291) themselves, even though it will take the full code as a search query and will work, which helps confirm numbers from guesses or other websites. Based on the D(Model Year)R3(Mustang Platform)Z(Parts Department) naming convention + part number, we can usually figure out the entire part number sequence. Not necessarily important as a follow up now that you already have the right number, but it's always fun to solve a mystery. Good luck with the build! I'm amazed with how fast it's coming together.

Thanks mwjscn, that's really helpful info. Can you post the URL to the Ford Parts website you mention? Is that different to the catalogues found on the dealer sites?

On a separate note we have two parts we're not sure where they go back, one is a metal bracket and the other is a plastic shield of some sort, maybe dust or weather protection. We think the plastic shield comes from around the swaybar area or similar. It's possible there is supposed to be a pair of these items and one went missing in the accident.
51653228030_55c850d62d.jpg51651546672_2672294bf4.jpg
 
Can you post the URL to the Ford Parts website you mention? Is that different to the catalogues found on the dealer sites?
Sure, and yes, it's this one: https://parts.ford.com/
It's best to use both this website and those dealer pages in conjunction, from what I find. The Ford site usually has better pictures and zoom-enabled CAD-like diagrams, but obviously the dealer websites usually have better prices and are easier to navigate (and show the entire part number, as described previously). As a tool to use for cross-referencing odd situations like this, though, it proves valuable.
 
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49
107
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Auckland, New Zealand
Just a quick update - this is where we were up to as of yesterday. Bumper was a trial fit without the bumper guides so isn't perfect but we'll get that sorted out.
51652366236_77bbfe006a_c.jpg

It was so nice to see the car with the doors on and really coming back together. We started the car as well as Bad Influence mentioned and it sounds very healthy with the uncorked side pipes! :D
 
On a separate note we have two parts we're not sure where they go back, one is a metal bracket and the other is a plastic shield of some sort, maybe dust or weather protection. We think the plastic shield comes from around the swaybar area or similar. It's possible there is supposed to be a pair of these items and one went missing in the accident.
Can you post the part numbers written on them? I can see them, but the images are too small to perfectly transcribe all the information.
 
79
138
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Auckland New Zealand
Googled them already to no avail, the thin plastic part is F150V>PP<CR33-10317-AB
The bracket 4R (or 4B can't quite make it out) 3316H002, the other number on it is 12 248

The other part I have here is BR3Z-16A298-A, I'm assuming this is also not for this car being that its a BR3Z prefix.
 
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Googled them already to no avail, the thin plastic part is F150V>PP<CR33-10317-AB
The bracket 4R (or 4B can't quite make it out) 3316H002, the other number on it is 12 248
That's a splash shield for the alternator, part # CR3Z-10317-A (have to change the 3 to a Z to get the parts dept codes, you can see the level of trickery here). I'll let you know if I can figure anything out about the other part.
092b5ed10ac0f82c7d14d33f495b6fa4.png
 
79
138
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Auckland New Zealand
Wanted to get it rolling under its own power again today, bled the brakes my usual way which was cool.
Come to do the clutch and with no bleed nipple that makes for an interesting situation. Now VW and Audi (my usual staple) do some dumb shiznit but Ford wins this one.
Thankfully I'd already bench bled the release bearing before installing it but it still turned in to a faff.
Don't have a Myti vac so I used my vacuum tool for doing radiators, that got it eventually.
Hung the front fenders, sorted out some alignment issues to the headlight with.....an adjustment tool and a block of wood.
Straightened out the hood hinges as best I could initially and put the hood on.
If one thing really irritates me its bad gaps, nothing screams repaired car like bad gaps and bad fitting panels.
Hood fit pretty well, sat too high on the driver side and too low on the passenger.
Took one hinge off at a time to make adjustments to get it sitting right.
Latch on and the front end is gapped ready for the bumper.
The bumper is looking much better now that the bottom lip is bolted on, hopefully I can get that looking right as well.
IMG20211104141332.jpgIMG20211104141344.jpg
Drove the car outside under its own power, been a while since it was able to do thatIMG20211104154624.jpg
 
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Wanted to get it rolling under its own power again today, bled the brakes my usual way which was cool.
Come to do the clutch and with no bleed nipple that makes for an interesting situation. Now VW and Audi (my usual staple) do some dumb shiznit but Ford wins this one.
Thankfully I'd already bench bled the release bearing before installing it but it still turned in to a faff.
Don't have a Myti vac so I used my vacuum tool for doing radiators, that got it eventually.
Hung the front fenders, sorted out some alignment issues to the headlight with.....an adjustment tool and a block of wood.
Straightened out the hood hinges as best I could initially and put the hood on.
If one thing really irritates me its bad gaps, nothing screams repaired car like bad gaps and bad fitting panels.
Hood fit pretty well, sat too high on the driver side and too low on the passenger.
Took one hinge off at a time to make adjustments to get it sitting right.
Latch on and the front end is gapped ready for the bumper.
The bumper is looking much better now that the bottom lip is bolted on, hopefully I can get that looking right as well.
View attachment 69854View attachment 69855
Drove the car outside under its own power, been a while since it was able to do thatView attachment 69856
Does not the Boss 302 use the brake master cylinder for the clutch?, if so, put a rubber plug in it, poke a hole in the plug for a 1/4 inch brass tube, attach rubber hose to it and pull a vacuum on it.
 
49
107
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Auckland, New Zealand
Does not the Boss 302 use the brake master cylinder for the clutch?, if so, put a rubber plug in it, poke a hole in the plug for a 1/4 inch brass tube, attach rubber hose to it and pull a vacuum on it.
It does normally BS-1 but we installed a separate reservoir for the clutch to divorce it from the brake fluid.
 

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