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Lug nuts and front caliper carrier bolts . . .

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First day on track with the new car Saturday. What's the deal with these lugnuts? They seem to be decorative covers over plain lug nuts, but it doesn't look like they separate. Ok just to torque them with the caps on? On cars with studs, I do 88lbs/ft. Hows that?

On the carrier bolts, I usually just blue loktite them and give them a good pull tight on my BMWs. Any reason I can't do that with these, or should I get out my fancy torque wrench (what #)?

Thanks in advance!
 
I only used the stock lug nuts for 2 events, then switched to ARP studs.
If you're going to track routinely, switch over to ARP studs before you twist a stock one off. There's a thread in How To section.

Steve types faster than me. ;D

Yes, buy a quality torque wrench. Craftsman is good. But I'll admit, I'm using a Harbor Freight.
 
I put on anti-seize on the threads everytime to keep from shearing off the studs. I take my wheels off a lot to clean them....I dont track the car. I have switched to these lug nuts as they are smaller and less chance for me to dick up the wheels paint.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/6spline-lugnuts-chrome.html
 
you can peel the chrome cap off the lugs, but you end up with a funky hex size (as me how I know ::) )

I use Gorilla open lugs with the smaller than stock hex size and have electrical tape wrapped around the socket to protect the wheels. 100ft/lbs is absolutely correct and DEFINITELY recheck after each track session, especially on new wheels. they walk quite a bit when new and then settle in.
 
Went with 100, thanks guys. Speaking of walking, the Hoosiers walked around the rim by as much as 2 inches! I had always heard balancing race tires was a waste!
 
Grant 302 said:
Locktite on the caliper bolts...if I wasn't clear.
[/quote

I thought you were joking about putting them on the lugnuts, LOL
 

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