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Maximum Motorsports Camber Plates: Easy to adjust at the track?

Hey guys,

Shopping for camber plates. I'm leaning towards the MM plates because they are widely used and mid-range pricing.

Are they easy to adjust at the track to gain camber, then easy to set back (with precision) to the highway configuration for the ride home?

The Vorshlag plates list "easy adjustment" as a sort of differentiating feature of their plates... I'm hoping to determine if they are any easier to adjust, and if that feature is worth the 30% price premium.
 
They should all function the same, with the Vorshlag though they do have notches that you can see to do the changes, though for the MM pieces you could always mark two spots and adjust between the two.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,545
2,376
Arizona, USA
Yes, for any plates you just need to lift the front end completely off the ground and then loosen the nuts, make the adjustment, tighten up, then put the car down.

It helps if you have a camber gauge where you can mark off increments at different points on the plate.
 

LS Boss

The "old" and the "new"
I had a set of MM plates and found they were just fine... since I track the car much more than the street, I just left my at about -2.5-3 degrees...obviously the simple way at the track is scribe them. When I changed to Cortex system, I also changed camber plates...again, I don't really monkey with them much on a pretty much single purpose car. I actually could tell difference in the 1/2 degree however...that was suprising to me.
 
Thanks for the help, guys. I didn't realize that you had to jack up the car in order to move the plates. Always something to learn.
 
ArizonaGT said:
Yes, for any plates you just need to lift the front end completely off the ground and then loosen the nuts, make the adjustment, tighten up, then put the car down.

It helps if you have a camber gauge where you can mark off increments at different points on the plate.

I have a CC gauge and done this in between sessions. But I would recommend marking the increments as mentioned since it's a pain to go through all this while at the track (raise, set, lower, check, repeat). Also, depending on the gauge (and wheels) you use it can be a bit of a pain to get an accurate reading. Another reason to work all this out well before you get the track.
 
Also, keep in mind as you add negative camber you also increase toe out. This can assist your turn-in which may be beneficial for the track as well. But as always opinions really vary here and I would suggest making changes in small increments. Unfortunately if you don't dial in a good degree of negative camber for the track you will wear the outside of you front tires prematurely. This was a little over 2 degrees and not enough to save the tires. Although tire pressure also comes into play and another discussion altogether.

DSC_1075_zpsefd44fc2.jpg
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Theviking said:
Also, keep in mind as you add negative camber you also increase toe out. This can assist your turn-in which may be beneficial for the track as well. But as always opinions really vary here and I would suggest making changes in small increments. Unfortunately if you don't dial in a good degree of negative camber for the track you will wear the outside of you front tires prematurely. This was a little over 2 degrees and not enough to save the tires. Although tire pressures also comes into play and another discussion altogether.

If those are Super Sports, I think they take/need lots of pressure and lots of negative camber. At my limit of -2.5 with bolts, it seemed I could use more.

I'm hoping that using the plates and bolts I'll have enough adjustment range to make track adjustments that are too aggressive for the street.
 

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