New, not so new. S197 for HPDEs

[RoadRaceJosh`]

Did someone summonst me? I heard "V6".

You did, but it's the 4 point slow.

The car was pretty cheap for the overall condition and it's a way to get back on track. My other cars include EVs (Ioniq 5 and Fiat 500e) and JDM imports (Toyota Land Cruiser Prado and Toyota TownAce), none of which I want to lap a track with. After picking up the camber plates I pulled the trigger on remanufactured Brembo calipers and 14" rotors. I'm trying to exercise some restraint, but my previous track experiences tell me that without decent grip, brakes, spring rates and dampers, I'll be rather disappointed.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Well one would have to say you have very broad tastes and from one who has had some unique or somewhat odd machines over the years, enjoy the variety of 4 wheel toys. I can still remember buzzing around town in a little box Honda 600 which makes your Fiat 500e looks big, ha.

 

[Cal]

Like the little truck.
Did you go with the four piston Brembos? And did you do anything to back brakes? Forgive me if the information is there and I have overlooked it.

 

[RoadRaceJosh`]

Like the little truck.
Did you go with the four piston Brembos? And did you do anything to back brakes? Forgive me if the information is there and I have overlooked it.

Thanks, it's a very good work truck. 1000 kg/2200 lb payload and the bed is 8.75" long. It's not a Kei-class truck as many think.

Yes, I ordered the 4-piston, 14" Brembo brakes for the front. I'll be trying Centric 10610010 Posi-Quiet Extended Wear; Semi-Metallic pads on the front for initial street use. They might even stand up to a little track use, but I'm not counting on it. Cheap-ish ($130 at RockAuto) Power Stop PST1001 track day pads will likely be fine as they did okay on the 13" brakes of my 300 hp 1994 Corvette and 210 hp will tax 14" brakes much less. Of course there are lots of higher temperature capable options at higher prices.

The rear are going to get a modest pad upgrade. I'm thinking either Raybestos SP1082XPH Specialty; Street Performance or Power Stop PST1082 Track DAY High-Performance.

The brake balance could get interesting. I had an adjustable proportioning valve on my dedicated race car, but I installed that thinking I'd need to reduce the rear brake pressure, but I'm not sure that I ever did. I do remember dialing down the rear brake pressure to facilitate burnouts!

 

[blacksheep-1]

I have done HPDEs with my old club, some LeMons and Chump Car races and raced wheel-to-wheel for about 3 years in my 1966 Dodge Dart. HPDE clearly has the lowest $$ barrier to entry. My last HPDE was in a 1994 Corvette with the handling package. That car really needed an oil cooler, but was otherwise pretty good aside from the car's electronic complexity. The Mustang has at least 3 fewer computers.

A Yukon LSD is on the way for the 7.5 axle. Hopefully the LSD friction doesn't overheat the gear oil and lead to other issues. I've seen gear failure in classes where axle coolers were not allowed. Probably not an issue unless the car goes endurance racing. I am still looking for used 4.10 gears and may have to buy them new. There's a S197, 7.5 for sale locally. If might be worth building it and doing a swap.

I am leaning towards Koni Sport dampers and the Ground Control coilover conversion as that would keep most of my prep within the SCCA T4 regulations and could help someone in the future. The axle ratio restrictions look like a handicap with the very wide ratio T5 in the 4.0 V6 cars.

That's my current thinking which is subject to change as I read and learn more.

I did an article on the 7.5 diff as well, DO NOT buy used gears, it's a bad idea IMO. On e they are worn in, you have to nail the same setup or they can be noisy. Also try Royal Purple for your diff/ trans lube, I've been pretty impressed with it.

Gear installation

So a buddy has a 7.5 diff that will be getting a 3.73 ring and pinion. The 7.5 is a close relative to the 8.8, so the procedure will be essentially the same. The little 7.5 was around until 1992 ish in the Gt and works well with engines up to about 350HP. Since Ford Performance no longer makes...

trackmustangsonline.com

 

[Cal]

Thanks, it's a very good work truck. 1000 kg/2200 lb payload and the bed is 8.75" long. It's not a Kei-class truck as many think.

Yes, I ordered the 4-piston, 14" Brembo brakes for the front. I'll be trying Centric 10610010 Posi-Quiet Extended Wear; Semi-Metallic pads on the front for initial street use. They might even stand up to a little track use, but I'm not counting on it. Cheap-ish ($130 at RockAuto) Power Stop PST1001 track day pads will likely be fine as they did okay on the 13" brakes of my 300 hp 1994 Corvette and 210 hp will tax 14" brakes much less. Of course there are lots of higher temperature capable options at higher prices.

The rear are going to get a modest pad upgrade. I'm thinking either Raybestos SP1082XPH Specialty; Street Performance or Power Stop PST1082 Track DAY High-Performance.

The brake balance could get interesting. I had an adjustable proportioning valve on my dedicated race car, but I installed that thinking I'd need to reduce the rear brake pressure, but I'm not sure that I ever did. I do remember dialing down the rear brake pressure to facilitate burnouts!

That’s what I have planned as well on brakes. I’ve got to get some wheels first. The 08 Bullitt wheels won’t clear those calipers so it’ll be a step in the right direction going wider when I get wheels.

 

[RoadRaceJosh`]

I did an article on the 7.5 diff as well, DO NOT buy used gears, it's a bad idea IMO. On e they are worn in, you have to nail the same setup or they can be noisy. Also try Royal Purple for your diff/ trans lube, I've been pretty impressed with it.

Gear installation

So a buddy has a 7.5 diff that will be getting a 3.73 ring and pinion. The 7.5 is a close relative to the 8.8, so the procedure will be essentially the same. The little 7.5 was around until 1992 ish in the Gt and works well with engines up to about 350HP. Since Ford Performance no longer makes...

trackmustangsonline.com

I decided some days ago not to invest any more in the 7.5" axle than the Yukon LSD and carrier bearings. Yukon recommends a conventional lube. 4.10s would have helped the track performance, but there's no way to fully mitigate the poor ratios of the 4.0-spec T-5. It's so different from other T-5s that it might as well not be a T-5 at all, and no other gear ratios are available. I have Red Line MTL for the trans.

After putting together a spreadsheet for what I've spent, and expect to be spending, I'm unhappy with myself for passing on a 2013 Performance Package V6 car.

 

[blacksheep-1]

Just so you know, the SCCA lets you run the 3.73 in the T4 class. The V6 cars came with like a 3.31 or 3.08 or something, I forget. But the 3.73 is a vast improvement. Don't sell the 7.5 short, it's good for 350HP, and it's lighter than the 8.8.

 

[RoadRaceJosh`]

Just so you know, the SCCA lets you run the 3.73 in the T4 class. The V6 cars came with like a 3.31 or 3.08 or something, I forget. But the 3.73 is a vast improvement. Don't sell the 7.5 short, it's good for 350HP, and it's lighter than the 8.8.

3.31 in my car. I went ahead and ordered the 3.73 R&P, pinion bearings and shims for the pinion and carrier. I suppose I'll need a tuner to correct for the axle ratio and tire size changes. And...3.45 is legal in the 7.5" axle for T4.

 

[RoadRaceJosh`]

Today I scored front and rear GT500 sway bars 35/24mm for $325. Now I just need rear axle brackets. They look really simple.