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S550 S16 Mustang Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs


That’s the best I have.

Bumper beam is through drilled for front support rods. Used existing holes in the sides for the side support rods.

I’m still using fender liners and getting the three push pins per side out is the most time consuming part of removing the splitter. Frustrating if on the ground. Easy peasy if front wheels off. Would be easy without fender liners as well.

Bumper does not need to be removed to pull splitter off.
Hey thanks Hristofor.

Been slowly chipping away at the wiring/programming issues the last few months with our local dealership. Took it to the dealership hoping it was they were programming issues that could be easily resolved with IDS. That wasn't the case for the most part so I took it back and worked through many little issues. Steering rack and ABS weren't coming online, so got those working. turn signals and headlights were not working, got those re-pinned and operational. Communication issues between several modules got those resolved. Good news is I hope I’m not wrong in saying that we’ve got it all sorted out now save for the anti theft system preventing cranking. I'm waiting on a second keyfob and then it goes back to the dealer for them to blank the PCM and re-program it as if its a brand new one. The PCM controls the anti theft system (PATS) so this should fix it. If that doesn't work I found one guy in Florida who was also dumb enough to undertake this swap using all OEM wiring and he had the same PATS issues. For him programming a new PCM did the trick. So if blanking my PCM doesn't do it we'll grab a new PCM and program it. Good news is they're in stock if we need one.

Also been tinkering with some other items in between. Trunk is less solid than I’d prefer with the wing on it so I cut these blocks real quick to see if they would help. With no interior those trunk bumpers were floating in air. The blocks work so I think I’ll fab up a permanent solution.

Finally put my apex EC7’s on.

With any luck I’ll have this wrapped up this month ready for some track days! Gonna be a whole new car to drive. Wing, NT01’s, and a v8.
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Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
With any luck I’ll have this wrapped up this month ready for some track days! Gonna be a whole new car to drive. Wing, NT01’s, and a v8.
Thanks for the detailed response I was curious about the swap as we were just discussing yesterday in our local mustang club what is needed and run into your posts sounds like a lot more work than I though it would be but I'm glad that you are making great progress sure you will sort out the PCM issues. Can't way for your first track day with the new car it sure will be amazing. Good luck and keep us posted !
Yeah in theory the swap electronics are not that difficult if you get ALL the important modules from the engine donor vehicle. I thought I had done that with the PCM, BCM, Keyfob Antennas, accelerator pedal, clutch and brake pedals and sensors, steering column with associated modules and all wiring. Turns out the ABS also stores the vehicle VIN and the instrument cluster and FCIM (dash button module with start button, traction control, etc) also have vehicle identifiers that many modules check for. The steering rack and ABS firmware also changed throughout the years and based on vehicle options, etc. So there are many modules that all talk on 3-5 separate Canbus networks and if there are enough mismatches in expected/received information between them it can render some modules/functions inoperable or trigger some modules to think there is theft and they lock up.

So it turns out that while in theory, theory and practice are identical, in practice they are not.
Working on mounting and plumbing this 948 oil cooler.

Sticky foam on the back to seal it to the radiator:

Mounted. Can move it over to the right and bolt it together with a small 9 series cooler with fitting pointing the other way for trans cooling if needed.

Sandwich plate. The -12 fitting are quite large.

And another item I’ve had on my list for a while is these strut slot fillers. The MCS coilovers have huge slots and the bolts have not slipped yet but I don’t want to risk it.

Waiting on magneride delete modules so hopefully the car will go over 80MPH once the oil cooler and ducting are done.

Sonoma on 2/5, so excited.
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
I wonder how difficult it would be to adapt the GT350 OE rad/coolers duct nose assembly to an S197 or S550 GT application?

Light, plastic.....hmmmm, it mustn't be practical since I can't recall anyone posting a diy on it.
pretty sure most using -10. I ran 10's no issues and I'm race only on 2019 GT. I also wonder about the oil pump pushing oil through bigger lines? 12's are pretty big. I ran 8's on tranny&diff
Looks like stock front swaybar? You are going to hate that. If coyote motor the weight and body roll is going to eat tires. I also ran MCS from vorshlag so had the heavier front spring rates like around 500? I forget and I could cord a new 295 hoosier on 3rd session on track and those are short SCCA sessions like 15min prac, 20min qualy, 30-40 min race.
Yeah ford performance recommends -12 if you can fit it. I also have the GT500 pan and pump with moves considerably more oil.

What sway bar are you running now? This one is a stock GT350 Bar.
That bar might be fine? I had to run the FP bar just to stop the radical tire wear.

I have not seen ford perf help us in anyway. How they would come up with -12 yet let bean counters put in the dork engine coolant cooled mini-oil cooler is beyond me. The bad design of the rear FP bar and and me calling ford Perf on it got zero play with those guys. FP was totally unhelpful! Everytime I called them for this or that totally useless. Chevy perf in contrast actually tried to solve our problems.
Ducting finally complete.


Also the car the coyote came out of had magneride. Used Forscan to set asbuilt data to non-magneride but still had the 80mph limiter. So got a VDM and Xineering magneride delete simulators and all good now.

Alignment and wash it for the first time in probably a year and we’re good to go for Sonoma. Really excited.
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Hey man. Been enjoying the process over the past year.
Which center vent did you go with? The street or Track? Never seen it at a side angle like you posted when installed.

Also very dumb question but Im trying to build the courage to take it on but what do you use as mounting points for the radiator ducting? At the top I see L brackets but what about the bottom?

Center vent is the RT track trim/spec.

The ducting mounts directly to the radiator on the left and right sides, and to the cross bar between the front horns of the subframe for the bottom. I can take some more detailed mounting photos next time the bumper is off if you'd like.

If you still have AC it will be way more difficult, or you will run the ducting to the AC condenser only and results will be diminished.

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