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S550 S16 Mustang Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

It’s a hard decision and there’s lots of factors but I’m thinking coyote now as the overall cost is lower and the valvetrain is more stable at high rpms. The more I read about LS’s the more it seems the valvetrains either need to stay close to stock or you need to do a ton if you want to run a big cam. Since I don’t have the funds to do the swap and a full valvetrain I’d be at the same power levels as a coyote. So then the coyote is the easy button. Much worse transmission though... I dunno we’ll see.
 

JDee

Ancient Racer
1,262
1,122
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
halfway between Mosport and Shannonville
It’s a hard decision and there’s lots of factors but I’m thinking coyote now as the overall cost is lower and the valvetrain is more stable at high rpms. The more I read about LS’s the more it seems the valvetrains either need to stay close to stock or you need to do a ton if you want to run a big cam. Since I don’t have the funds to do the swap and a full valvetrain I’d be at the same power levels as a coyote. So then the coyote is the easy button. Much worse transmission though... I dunno we’ll see.
Yeah, tough call for sure 'cause the advantages with the LS extend to handling due to smaller package, sits lower and more centered in the car. But what that would be worth per lap is hard to guess at, I've never seen an apples to apples comparison of the two engines in an identical S550. Then there's the design factor, the 'yote is a modern sophisticated design with DOHC 4 valve layout while the the LS is just an old school 2 valve OHV and the 'yote makes more HP per cube. That's what attracted me to the car initially.

You can't lose either way, but the 'yote is for sure going to be easier and cheaper. If you can get a 'yote with a MT82 you'd be best to send it out to Calimer for a Stage 2 or 3 rebuild right off the bat. If mine is any guide you'll get 2 track seasons at best out of a stock MT82 and it will be in serious need of a rebuild by then, though it might do better if you put a cooler on it right off the bat.
 
2.3 and associated engine harness out along with the engine bay sound deadening. Engine bay looks much nicer without it IMO, and any leaks will be easier to spot without it.

8EB3EFAB-EC4F-404B-B329-7EA0935198E8.jpeg

5.0 engine bay harness and motor in. Engine got a gt500 pan and oil pump before install. Want to thank @honeybadger for his time consulting on pickup tube issue I came across during install. Long story short the gap between pickup tube and bottom of the pan was only 1/4”. The pickup tube was also not seating into the pump properly until I took 1/8” off the coupling nut that the pickup tube support bolts to.

7B7EF159-EF8B-40F7-BFC4-2A14B2B22CEC.jpeg

Well the engine is almost in, turns out the GT engine cradle I bought is bent so working on finding another. In the meantime I’m ripping apart the interior to swap dash and body harnesses. Will try and lose a bit of weight in the process.
 
2
0
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Aptos, CA
Just read through this thread. Nice work. Question, is this going to be just a track car? Doing a swap in CA is not that easy for licensing.
 
Good question, still undecided on that. I’d like to keep plates on it so since I’m keeping all the stock emissions from the coyote for now I’m thinking to take it to the referee for certification. We’ll see.
 
2
0
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Aptos, CA
Good question, still undecided on that. I’d like to keep plates on it so since I’m keeping all the stock emissions from the coyote for now I’m thinking to take it to the referee for certification. We’ll see.
Well you have a couple more years if it's a 2016 as new vehicles are good for the first 8yrs. Sent you a PM as well.
 
Slowly making some progress. Rigged up the fuel transfer pump in the tank, thanks again to @AdmirC for figuring this out. I expect it to work quite well and to be one of the cheapest weight savings I can think of. Should be able to run less than a half tank now, so that’s a good 55lbs savings for half a tank.

Hose clamps are way more secure than I had expected.
A1F0E41E-432C-4956-B2DF-4959E108A1E8.jpeg

Hose runs from the new transfer pump over the saddle in the tank to the fuel hat of the main pump.
0A9A5BC3-0EBD-4801-946C-1BBDCB93CCDF.jpeg

Closeup of the hose dropped down along side the pump in the fuel hat
BEF37663-3876-4723-AF31-110A5A4DBC42.jpeg

@Ewheels wanted to see what the fuel filter looks like. Sits alongside the fuel pump in the hat.
226A32F7-83FA-4483-93F1-BAD231A6E88B.jpeg

Also pulled the dash out of the car to swap the body and dash harnesses. Removed all the airbags in the process including the curtains, prob worth a good 20-25lbs.
D167BE00-B179-4678-97C5-16FAFFAC2A25.jpeg
 
422
256
sfo
wait until you see your on track gas mileage of a 5.0 at full tilt. I must be getting 5mpg and I'm a restricted motor so not full power. I think our standard SCCA sprint races use about a 1/2 tank of gas and our tanks are lame. I have had my 2019 Gt racer flash me the on reserve alarm and then run out of gas in about 3/4 lap. Scavenging is poor. I think 1/2 tank isn't going to work very well.

I'm not sure how all the 4cyl electronics plays well with the 8. Seems like you are building a racecar. I would gut the rest of interior and the HVAC unit. I do not think the condenser and hosing etc from the 4 will work with the 8. I started building my racer from a brand new off the dealer lot 2019GT. I have all the V8 stuff if you need it like A/C lines and A/C compressor, condenser etc. if you really want to go for a dual use, street legal, drive to the track HPDE/time trial car. I also have the performance pack oil cooler that works with the lower left coolant hose on your motor now. If you decide to go aftermarket oil cooler the hose on the previous gen stang is solid and deletes the 2 ports for the cooler in your picture. I have that part number if you need it.
 
422
256
sfo
Also since you have much interior out how do you like your heel toe position? The reason I ask is behind the carpet the Go pedal is bolted to the firewall studs. You can add a small spacer to the firewall and bring the go pedal higher if that helps you.
 
Thanks for the offer Bob!

I was using about a quarter tank per session with the Ecoboost, so yeah I could see using prob 1/3 tank or a bit more with the v8. I did the fuel transfer setup to avoid running dry on long left handers which was already happening, if there’s a weight savings too that’s great but not the main reason.

The goal with the car is to be streetable enough to not want to blow my brains out going to and from track days. No A/c, but hopefully exhaust not too loud and maybe a radio that works to help drown out the diff whine.

Heel toe so far has been pretty good ergonomics for me. Great solution for moving the gas pedal if needed though, I did notice how it was bolted in. Wanted to pull it off to remove the sound deadening inside the firewall but didn’t want to remove the bolts on the heater core that go through the firewall, pain in the ass to get to and re-seal. Will prob cage this thing in the not too distant future so will have another opportunity.
 

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