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Spark Plug Change

Today I did a spark plug change on my car at 16450 miles. I had to order the plugs (Motorcraft Iridium CFSY-12) at my dealer since I was the first mechanic to ask for them. All of the stock plugs read perfect with no signs of running lean or too rich. There is a slight oil film on the threads but electrodes and porcelin were light tan. Some pics of the removed plugs.
Sparkplugs002.jpg
Sparkplugs001.jpg

Easy job, Remove PCV hoses and coil covers, 8mm socket to remove coil hold down screw, 5/8" spark plug socket and 10" of extension. Unbolt coil, pull up a little release tab on harness and pull off wiring, remove coil and clean seals and blow out spark plug well. Remove plug (do with engine cool so you don't pull out aluminum threads) thread in new plug by hand until seated and torque 10 ft/lbs (124 in/lbs). Little dielectric grease in coil boot and push back into well, tighten coil hold down screw to 7 ft/lbs. Replace coil lead (make sure it clicks. Do 8 times and replace covers, and PCV hoses. Test drive and enjoy! Most of you won't be doing this for at least 40000 miles but I like to see what's going on with the engine.
Steve
 
Check out RockAuto as well, I think they were cheaper with free shipping, back when I ordered mine, which I still havent installed.

How are our cylinders numbered?
Is No. 1 front driver side and 2 front passenger side, or is 2 second cylinder on driver side?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,158
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F.D. Sako said:
Check out RockAuto as well, I think they were cheaper with free shipping, back when I ordered mine, which I still havent installed.

How are our cylinders numbered?
Is No. 1 front driver side and 2 front passenger side, or is 2 second cylinder on driver side?

1-4 drivers side.

https://www.google.com/?client=safari&channel=mac_bm#channel=mac_bm&q=ford+coyote+firing+order&imgrc=ZxQwKt3wVVfemM%253A%3Bundefined%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Frennlist.com%252Fforums%252Fattachments%252F928-forum%252F486982d1289136689-ford-s-new-coyote-engine-tech-928.gif%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Frennlist.com%252Fforums%252F928-forum%252F600424-ford-s-new-coyote-engine-tech.html%3B364%3B396
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
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Arizona, USA
TMSBOSS said:
1-4 drivers side.

https://www.google.com/?client=safari&channel=mac_bm#channel=mac_bm&q=ford+coyote+firing+order&imgrc=ZxQwKt3wVVfemM%253A%3Bundefined%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Frennlist.com%252Fforums%252Fattachments%252F928-forum%252F486982d1289136689-ford-s-new-coyote-engine-tech-928.gif%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Frennlist.com%252Fforums%252F928-forum%252F600424-ford-s-new-coyote-engine-tech.html%3B364%3B396

Negative. This picture is from an M3, but the cylinder arrangement is the same for us. Firing order is the same as well.
SEcUo6xHEt_XUGGvmH0eN953jInfvH1ID-sBen_EhkGZRIWHwE.png
 
drano38 said:
Took the Boss in today for the O-ring TSB. I'm just under 15,000 miles.
They called back and said it sounds like the #4 cylinder is misfiring a bit. I've never noticed that.
He pulled the #4 spark plug, and the service advisor called back and recomended replacing all plugs.
She said $472. :eek: :eek:
Really? Are the plugs gold plated or something?
I'm running out of time to do them myself (and they need to order the plugs) so won't be here until Monday.
Maybe I'll do a test remove and replace on a couple this weekend and see how it goes.
They're platinum plated, more expensive than gold. ;) I had the dealer do mine and it was half that price which I still thought was outrageous but my car was there anyway so I had them change them.

Check that cylinder numbering, I believe the drivers side is 5-8.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,158
3,143
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
NFSBOSS said:
They're platinum plated, more expensive than gold. ;) I had the dealer do mine and it was half that price which I still thought was outrageous but my car was there anyway so I had them change them.

Check that cylinder numbering, I believe the drivers side is 5-8.

Lesson learned. NEVER trust Google when you are jet lagged.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Went to the dealer to pick up the Boss. Service adviser said they were finishing up paperwork. But then I see the manager and a tech at the Boss, in the bay, so I walk over to see whats up.
Man, you just can't make this stuff up, or as us Air Force pilots said, YGBSM (you gotta be [email protected]*&&^ me).
When disconnecting or connecting the battery cable, he must have shorted it out, and blew the fuse on the end of the positive cable. Fuse not in stock. Back ordered to 1 July. No other dealer has one.
And I'm pre-paid for a track event next weekend.
Called an auto parts store--no cross reference.
No other vehicle on lot to steal one off of.
So I asked if my '10 GT has the same fuse. Yes it does. So I'll take it off, and have them install it Saturday morning.
Then I'll pick up spark plugs from Carquest, and install them--some day I'll stop in and ask the Ford service manager how he gets $472. The parts dept said the plugs were $12 each. That's a LOT of labor cost.

Edit--Nope, my GT doesn't have that fuse at the end of the battery cable. If it has one, its buried on a harness somewhere. This is getting funner every hour.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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NY Metro
Never let a dealer monkey work on a race car. Example lesson #173 above.
Sorry they screwed you up, please contact Varsity Ford, Tasca Ford, Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake, Watson Racing and Rehagen Racing for the main harness fuse. If they don't have one then you probably are in trouble for next weekend. Sorry I don't know of a safe work around for this, but stranded copper 12AWG wire spliced in should be ok, unless you direct short the battery again.
Steve
 
As far as I know, Ford does not make their own fuses. Post any details you have of it, pictures or just type what the text on it is. Dimensions, etc. I am sure Allied/Digikey/Newark has something appropriate. I can't seem to find it in the fordparts site.

The other thing you could do is go right to the GM and tell him you require the car ASAP and he needs to make it right. If they tell you they can't get the part then they are incompetent. They should be able to find another Mustang on the lot/somewhere. Then call Ford if you need to. At this point the labor should have been comped on the spot for their F-up. Sounds like they don't want your business anymore to me.

Worst case, maybe someone here could loan you one if they don't need the car that week? Unfortunately I have a track event coming up and need to be able to drive her to and from a friends for part installs...
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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I don't think the part that failed is a fuse per se, it is a fusible link built into the positive battery cable. Pics of the failed part would help with a possible MacGuyver solution. I think you may need the entire positive cable. Here is the part # and Auto Nation sells it for $134. CR3Z14300FA
Steve
 
steveespo said:
I don't think the part that failed is a fuse per se, it is a fusible link built into the positive battery cable. Pics of the failed part would help with a possible MacGuyver solution.
Steve

Ah... The bigger issue then is how they connect it, then. Probably need some serious crimping tool. How many amps are we talking?
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
3,745
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Exp. Type
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NY Metro
600 at 12v for a cold start. The fuse link is only a section of flat copper 3/16" wide and maybe .1/16" thick. A piece of 12 wire soldered in there should get get it going. My hack advice is on a try this at your own risk basis.
Steve
 
If those dimensions are right then you have a 7.56mm^2 conductor, so 10AWG is a bit closer. But soldering will be a major PITA without some beefy iron.

I would definitely call around and force the dealer to make it right. I think it is ludicrous that they still charged you for the labor after this kind of an F-up. To blow one of those links they had to have a SUSTAINED short. It wasn't the guy bumping the positive terminal with a wrench handle. Check to make sure they didn't make a weld somewhere in there. I would make them replace the battery, too. Be as much of a PITA as you can to them.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Good news--a friend with a Boss 302 that rarely drives it (sad) let me take the part off his.
So I'm running again.
Picked up the spark plugs at Carquest, so after a Boss wash and engine cool down, I'll replace the plugs.
The dealer wanted to charge $346 for the o-ring TSB. I said that should be warranty, so they'll look into it more Monday. I'm still in the 5 year/60,000 miles, and since the o-ring is on the engine, I'd like to think that would be a power train item.
For the spark plug/misfire issue, the service ticket says he swapped #4 and #1 coils, and misfire stayed on #4. Hope is a plug issue and not a harness issue.

Part # BR3Z145268AA
They said it isn't on the '15 Mustang on their lot.

Here's a pic - It's the black plastic, with a 200 amp on left, 100 amp on right. Then 2 wires attach below that.
Thanks for everyone's help.
2015-06-06_13-02-32_44_zpsvpcxlnel.jpg
 

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