S550 Swedish ESS-Spezial Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

[Mike_FL]

Damn i already bought the Mishimoto coolers both for water and transmission!....

They will be ok, just don’t get the Mishimoto engine oil cooler

 

[Puppski]

They will be ok, just don’t get the Mishimoto engine oil cooler

Puhhh good to hear!!

 

[Puppski]

HI Guys

Soo please give me your best advise for the rear end... What do you suggest..

I bought

Whiteline Swaybar,
Whiteline Toe-link,
white line vertical links..

What else should i do? do you need IRS braces etc?

 

[byronj]

Welcome to TMO and the Mustang community. If it was my car I would read all about @flyhalf experience with the transmission cooling.

I know your car can be built to play with the P-cars. I have a buddy that has a PP2 that is NA with an E85 tune and it rips. I know he has Cortext coil overs, but I don't know all the other details.

IMO - you should skip on any forced induction with you Mustang if you want to run it on the track for more than 3 laps at a time.

 

[Puppski]

Welcome to TMO and the Mustang community. It it was my car I would read all about @flyhalf experience with the transmission cooling.

I know your car can be built to play with the P-cars. I have a buddy that has a PP2 that is NA with an E85 tune and it rips. I know he has Cortext coil overs, but I don't know all the other details.

IMO - you should skip on any forced induction with you Mustang if you want to run it on the track for more than 3 laps at a time.

Thank you, yes I read a lot of the information provided by @flyhalf around the transmission cooling so I try to figure out a way for that with all his great info!

Regarding forced induction. Everyone tells me that, but Power is power and if I keep the boost low with WG control on cold side it is not any difference compared to a NA build except it probably will have some more torque midrange that causes a bit more heat. I wonder if a 10R80 RSA build gearbox could sort a bit of the heat issues with less slip since I suspect that causes heat and with more lock-up i might reduce that some! On top of that I could have "over-boost" button for the long straights gaining a advantage on lap times but not causing to much heat overall with alot of boost everywhere!

 

[Stangra]

...you should skip on any forced induction with you Mustang if you want to run it on the track for more than 3 laps at a time.

In my experience, 3 laps is generous. The frequency and duration of high RPM boosted wide-open throttle commands will produce power-robbing heat soaking in way less than a minute.

Most supercharger kits are best suited for street applications where boost is needed for shorter durations, and with longer recovery times.
Even a 10 second drag race can produce notable intake heat.

I choose to be supercharged and have extensively upgraded/customized my entire intercooler circuit, but I see 75% street conditions, and have no expectations of seriously competing against sophisticated track weapons.

 

[Puppski]

In my experience, 3 laps is generous. The frequency and duration of high RPM boosted wide-open throttle commands will produce power-robbing heat soaking in way less than a minute.

Most supercharger kits are best suited for street applications where boost is needed for shorter durations, and with longer recovery times.
Even a 10 second drag race can produce notable intake heat.

I choose to be supercharged and have extensively upgraded/customized my entire intercooler circuit, but I see 75% street conditions, and have no expectations of seriously competing against sophisticated track weapons.

Well I agree and disagree.. My thought is that a whipple design are adding a lot of heat and have trouble to remove heat(IAT) with the water to air IC design..
A ESS Centrifugal SC design is not adding the heat the same way and have a HUGE air-air IC. At 6PSI IAT should not be a issue with that design. This is the reason i choosed centrifugal SC!

This does not help transmission heat but my point here is power is power and its easier to gain power with forced induction compared to NA upgrades.. i´m not thinking crazy power on track!

With above said I will have a WG controlled boost so this will mean I can go low on boost on track but still have a wild car on the streets with just a push of a button... I also could have a "over-take" boost button on track when needed!

I understand boosted trackcars are a bit Un-othodox here but my experience is if your can keep heat under control you are so much faster than a NA car!

So i think we must "disect" were the heat problem are with boost:

1: Transmission
2: IAT
3: Water temp engine
4: Oil temp engine

Ps. I have some experience of boosted cars on track..

 

[Puppski]

HI Guys

Soo please give me your best advise for the rear end... What do you suggest..

I bought

Whiteline Swaybar,
Whiteline Toe-link,
white line vertical links..

What else should i do? do you need IRS braces etc?

Any suggestion on the rear end??

 

[flyhalf]

Rsa "built" And stages is an ...interesting MARKETING CONCEPT.
Stage 1 "build is : better clutches
U can buy them for 600$ (McLeod requests clutches)
U don't need a "better" torque converter cause the stall thing is just for drag racing.
And a good tuner can lockout the clutch at 20mph anyway.

There is one torque converter that is better and us the SUNCOAST PERFORMANCE ONE but cost more than TRANSMISSION.

U can have better valve body circuits but the efficacy has to been proven still.

Better trans pump? Maybe.

My thermal bypass together with a bigger cooler is what is working for me.

Note on the supercharger. You will be pulling timing. Pretty soon.
Also keep in mind. You want to have a big engine oil Cooler.a big trans cooler. And u need a huge intercooler too. Not sure where you going to get the space. And does that ruin the whole cooling? Probably.
For a time trial car the supercharger or even better twin turbo (lighter and the weight is waaay lower so better handling too)
Is a great option. If you plan to do more than 5 laps you may want to reconsider that and use a full bolt on engine keeping it NA. Oztuning is the way to go
many real racers use KEN and he is great!
Get a better manifold. And you are more than 500whp. Than the secret is weight reduction. You drop 200kg. U gonna love the car!

Alex

 

[Puppski]

Rsa "built" And stages is an ...interesting MARKETING CONCEPT.
Stage 1 "build is : better clutches
U can buy them for 600$ (McLeod requests clutches)
U don't need a "better" torque converter cause the stall thing is just for drag racing.
And a good tuner can lockout the clutch at 20mph anyway.

There is one torque converter that is better and us the SUNCOAST PERFORMANCE ONE but cost more than TRANSMISSION.

U can have better valve body circuits but the efficacy has to been proven still.

Better trans pump? Maybe.

My thermal bypass together with a bigger cooler is what is working for me.

Note on the supercharger. You will be pulling timing. Pretty soon.
Also keep in mind. You want to have a big engine oil Cooler.a big trans cooler. And u need a huge intercooler too. Not sure where you going to get the space. And does that ruin the whole cooling? Probably.
For a time trial car the supercharger or even better twin turbo (lighter and the weight is waaay lower so better handling too)
Is a great option. If you plan to do more than 5 laps you may want to reconsider that and use a full bolt on engine keeping it NA. Oztuning is the way to go
many real racers use KEN and he is great!
Get a better manifold. And you are more than 500whp. Than the secret is weight reduction. You drop 200kg. U gonna love the car!

Alex

Great info thanks!
Im going to use Wengard for the ECU and Transmission tune after recommendation from ESS. Hopefully you all have good experience of them as well.
So are the clutches a good upgrade? Valvepack? Ive bought the Mishimote transmission cooler hopefully that will work.. After reading all the posts here im thinking of adding another cooler in series, any thoughts around that?

A huge IC I have and after your suggestion i going to try to box the front cooler in and i have a GT500 hood for trying to let the hot airflow out..

Final question around your 10R80 tune, are you sure you can trust the "manual" shifts? (I cant right now with the stock auto)
I dont want it to start auto shifting in the middle of a corner or shifting when I want to stay on a gear since I know a corner is coming up..?
Im not familiar with the new auto gearboxes but can you make sure it lock up under power or is it always slipping like a older Auto?

I also read your posts around the bypass valve and just have a question around cold climate.. Any experience there? lets say down towards close to +1celcius? what happens before it gets up to working temprature?

Regarding the engine Oil cooler i read some of your post somewhere that the 2018+ S550 have a quite good oil-water cooler?! true?
As mentioned earlier i went with the mishimoto water cooler after reading another of your posts somewhere.... ;-)


Finally whats your suggestion on getting the weight down?
My list is:
LILO battery.
bucket seats
rear seat delete

What else in weight reduction if I still want it to be usable on the streets which was the issue with my old car it became to crazy....

thanks for your input!

 

[Bouncing Soul]

For a rear diff cooler I bought this kit, but MMR should be fine too. I haven’t stalled, so no personal review, but it’s recommended by many- https://fulltiltboogieracing.com/S550_diff_cooler_kit.html

Supercharging may or may not make you faster on the lap times *even if you work out the cooling* but it will change how you get around the track. If you’re used to lots of HP you might need a serious naturally aspirated engine build or forced induction to get the feeling you are looking for on track. For me that is absolutely true, look at my signature

You’re already planning E85 which is one of the most important pieces. Getting the air in and out is the next one. You’re going to need to do a bunch of work to get all the coolers mounted and boxed in, especially with an automatic. but it can be done.

The weight is going to cost you in tires and brakes, but you knew that.

It can be done, the 2020+ GT500 is a dang fast car stock and even with an aggressive tune on E85 I never had the slightest cooling issue with any of the car’s systems at all pretty decent pace. For me the problem with that car is it’s just fast- needs a cage and containment seat!

 

[Puppski]

For a rear diff cooler I bought this kit, but MMR should be fine too. I haven’t stalled, so no personal review, but it’s recommended by many- https://fulltiltboogieracing.com/S550_diff_cooler_kit.html

Supercharging may or may not make you faster on the lap times *even if you work out the cooling* but it will change how you get around the track. If you’re used to lots of HP you might need a serious naturally aspirated engine build or forced induction to get the feeling you are looking for on track. For me that is absolutely true, look at my signature

You’re already planning E85 which is one of the most important pieces. Getting the air in and out is the next one. You’re going to need to do a bunch of work to get all the coolers mounted and boxed in, especially with an automatic. but it can be done.

The weight is going to cost you in tires and brakes, but you knew that.

It can be done, the 2020+ GT500 is a dang fast car stock and even with an aggressive tune on E85 I never had the slightest cooling issue with any of the car’s systems at all pretty decent pace. For me the problem with that car is it’s just fast- needs a cage and containment seat!

Thanks for your input!!

Yes that kit looks pretty similar to the one i found.

Rear Differential Oil Cooler Kit for 2015-26 S550 / S650 Mustang [777600] - $699.99 : Modular Motorsports, Home of the worlds fastest Fords

Modular Motorsports Rear Differential Oil Cooler Kit for 2015-26 S550 / S650 Mustang [777600] - If you have ever taken your S550 Mustang GT to an open Track Day, HPDE, Autocross or Time Trial you have likely seen the dreaded Differential warning light turn on. Overheating is VERY common and this...

www.modularmotorsportsracing.com

I will wait a little to invest in that but probably going to in phase 2

Right now it will be a GT500 front-end to be able fit and add add some more coolers if necessary in the side pockets and GT350 fenders to be able to let some heat and air out of the wheel bays.. By the way does anyone now if the GT350 fenders are wider then the OEM front fenders???

Regarding boost and Power... More HP almost always equals lower laptimes if its somewhat controllable... Or as Mark Donohue, the American racing driver and engineer, once remarked about the power of his Can-Am Porsche 917: "No, it will never have enough power until I can spin the wheels at the end of the straightaway in high gear."

So that closes up the power need discussion!!!

 

[Puppski]

So the build is slowly progressing and so are the parts pile in my garage....
I finally got most of my bodyparts mounted with GT500 front/hood and GT350 vented front fenders and the new paint(OEM black) is also done... Hopefully the GT500 front is giving me the space to add the much needed cooling for everything...

Crappy picture I know but more to come in the near future! ;-)

 

[Puppski]

Work on the car continues...

Bodywork more or less done for stage 1 with GT350 fenders and GT500 front and rear!

Lately we mainly been working on the chassie side and got alot of stuff done! :-D

So checking of some things on the list!!
Mustang GT 2020 PP2 EU model

Engine/transmission:

Mishimoto trans-cooler

Mishimoto main cooler

Mishimoto 71C termostat

K&N catch-can
ESS G3X supercharger with G4-IC

WG controlled boost to get a little more midrange and less top-end.

Arcane dual pump fuel system

1000CC FIM injectors

E85 fuel

Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Oil Pump Gears; MartenWear
Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Crankshaft Timing Sprocket
X-Pipe
 & Cat-delete
 *CHECK*
NEW: MagnaFlow Competition Series Active Cat-Back Performance Exhaust System *CHECK*

Wengard tune for engine and gearbox
 Idea is to run aprox 700-750hp on track and try to keep the cooling in order which Ive seen is really hard on the 10R80(Next step is potentially a RSA built transmission).



Body:
NEW New OEM Black full paint-job *CHECK*
GT500 vented hood
 *CHECK*
NEW GT500 complete FRONT SETUP *CHECK*
NEW GT500 REAR Diffusor *CHECK*
GT-style rear wing
Ducktail rear spoiler 
 *CHECK*
Front splitter
 
 *CHECK*
boxed coolers in the front.



Wheels:
Velgen 20x11 front 
 *CHECK*
Velgen 20x11 rear
 
 *CHECK*
Toyo R888 315/30/20 Rear *CHECK*
Toyo R888 285/30/20 Front *CHECK*


Chassie:
Whiteline front swaybar *CHECK*
Whiteline rear swaybar *CHECK*
Whiteline vertical links
 *CHECK*
Adjustable Toe-link s rear
 *CHECK*
NEW: Godspeed Adj Rear Camber Arms w/ Spherical Bearing *CHECK*
BMR Rear Camber Adjustment Lockout Kit *CHECK*
Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates *CHECK*
NEW: Öhlins Road and Track Coilover package *CHECK*

Pictures will come!

 

[Puppski]

Some small pictures of the progress with new wheels and body..

 

[Puppski]

After alot of problems some kind of turning signals are mounted was impossible to find the correct OEMs for the aftermarket GT500 front...
Now we just need to get wiring in order!

 

[Puppski]

Rear suspension with the Öhlins R&T and Adjustable Toe-bar

 

[Puppski]

Front with Whiteline swaybar and Öhlins R&T matched with Maximum top-mounts

 

[Puppski]

The Magnaflow active catback system with V-band fast connect mounts for my catalytic converter to be able to pass the yearly TUV pollution test!

 

[Puppski]

Not to forget the Puppan Racedoll.... ;-) :-D