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S197 Team Old Goats Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

Road Race 3v Build

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Built the diffusers for the splitter.
Bad news is that the coilovers which were to ship last week are still a unknown, vendor isn’t responding. So I’m going to miss the sept 3 race.
Only exciter wire to alternator and disable steering wheel lock left inside.
Rear diffuser, backing plates for brake ducts and side splitters left for fab.
Should have the plywood splitter in a layer of resin this weekend. I need to fiddle with the mounts as the bumper\splitter come off pretty easy, but its binding a bit on install.
Got the k-link and should get that installed this weekend now that I have the measurements for install from Kenny brown.
If my friend can fit me in, dyno time next week!

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My list is getting small. However still no eta on coilovers to go with the k-link.
I had to drop my fuel tank to get the old u-link out, after dropping the axle and still couldn’t get it out. I need to go get a larger bolt to fit the Kenny brown upgrade. Splitter is done after I grab a little more hardware today. Ducting the rad is the next step.

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K-link is in. The camber plates don’t fit the struts. Waiting on Kenny Brown to sort that out. Missed getting the car to track this year.
front struts, front calipers, and replace a leaky rear caliper, brake lines, corner balance ( and center and set k-link and ride height) and I’m ready for the track. Still a little work to do on rad ducting.

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So first test session tomorrow. Will have to bed in the pads\rotors at this event .
I was surprised when I did the alignment and corner balance today. Car came in at 3590lb with about 1/3 fuel. I weigh 190ish. So 3400 with no driver, that is heavier than I was hoping for.
The 18*11 wheels are giving me lots of grief. I have now taken the paint off the inside wheel lip from rubbing on the coil overs. The old coil overs where 85mm diameter the new ones are larger. So I had to get a 5/16 rear spacer. I need to replace that spacer with a better quality huncentric one. Amd for the front with the one inch spacer I picked up a strut camber bolt today as I need to decamber at the spindle a little to get clearance as the rubber is pretty much touching the coil.

I didnt fight to do a really good corner balance today. I want to drive the car in a test session, get all the bushings to selttle in, etc.

Starting with -2.2 camber. 9.5 castor. 1/4 toe. crossweight is 49.4 for now. My ride height is a little heigher than I wanted but I needed to get the coil above the wheel lip for clearance. So front fenders are about 27"

I have to duct the front bumper to the rad, build a brake deflector plate for brake cooling that will bolt to the kenny brown control arms, finish installing the race capture pro datalogger, finish the body work on the bumper, plumb the fire system. Thats getting pretty close to being done :). Im going to hire a decal shop to help me put the long graphics on the sides, I am used to putting decals on flat surfaces but there are enough curves on the rear quarter that I might want a pro to help me not screw it up.
 
What nose is that?
 
Bought a aftermarket nose from andys autosport, mine was all torn up. Dont recall the brand, it seemed right at the time....I glassed in the brake ducts. But I wont be running hose. The ducts will point at a deflector plate on the control arm and the diffusers in the front splitter will also aim air at the deflectors. Thats the plan anyways.
 
Bought a aftermarket nose from andys autosport, mine was all torn up. Dont recall the brand, it seemed right at the time....I glassed in the brake ducts. But I wont be running hose. The ducts will point at a deflector plate on the control arm and the diffusers in the front splitter will also aim air at the deflectors. Thats the plan anyways.
It's pretty swoopy.....I haven't seen that one before.
 
Now that I worked the bumper to fit flush against the fender I lost my 1 degree rake in the splitter. I have spent way way too much time on fitting and making the bumper removable. I have given up hope of bodyworking and painting the bumper this year, need to focus on getting to the track. The other work to do is the rear diffuser. The metal bumper ( and plastic ) have been clearanced for a taller diffuser to be built. This winter is remove the spare tire spot and build the diffuser.

I dropped a manual pcm in on the weekend and the key worked so its running. Back to the dyno this week to tune the car a second time. I know why the auto pcm isnt working but the three dealers I called wont touch it and I dont have anyone with the hardware\software to make the changes.

I will be adding something like a canard to the bumper, but it wil be vertical mounted on the vertical piece on the bumper sides. Since its ramped upwards I think it will make a difference if I hold the air on the ramped upwards part of the aftermarket bumper.

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Well 5 race days on the car. Corded the inside front tire sooner than expected. Tire temps didnt show too much camber. Need to get back on alignment rack to check, could be that suspension has now settled into place from use and toe is off. Got fuel cut, even with a full tank of gas at times, car lost a bit of power last race and then after checkered it almost felt like a limp mode. Will check plugs and try to solve the fuel starvation issue. The car was flood salvage and the emmissions canister was full of silt. Maybe the saddle tank pick up is plugged on one side.....Got the rear diffuser to do, fuel issue, power issue from last race, another alignment, raise the rear roll center a bit and its almost there.

With the rules I race with I can add about 40hp and stay in class. I think that will let me be a front runner at one track and do better at another track that I race on. Headers, remove cats, better cold air, intake delete plates and dyno tuning should get me closer.


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So I finally figured out why the temp guage was reading hot. The cats are plugged. And I know why the tire corded, camber shifted from 2.3 to 3.3 on that tire. Being it's the passenger side tire and a clockwise track. I'm going to set to 2.1 and leave the other side 2.3 to start next season. I also let the fast guy in the club drive the car and he confirmed there is a push ( not from overdriving). On the kenny brown k-link there is a rear roll center adjustment that does affect push. The range for this setting is supposed to be 1.75-2 inch. After consulting with KB they informed me that many customers are at 2.25 to dial out push. Small adjustment, big effect. We'll I must have had a brain fart setting up the car. I recall setting the car to 1.75 ands actually at .75. Major screw up on my part. It should be on rails next season!
 
Car is coming along. Just got my dual element kit for my 9 lives wing. Got a little more camber with some fiddling but I need to take the car apart this off season and fix my camber limitations. Im also thinking of running a 300/650r18 instead of the 280/650r18. I also need to go to a harder compound ( slicks) as im blistering and delaminating tires too soon. Since im getting tires too hot, I figure the 300 and one compound harder might help. Still have not built my rear diffuser but the dual element wing will help. Im now 319 max rwp. Charge motion delete, headers and a bigger cold air kit. I now know that in my class I can now shed about 100lb. That won't be easy as I dont want to spend money on fiberglass fenders or aluminum driveshaft. But the plywood splitter is heavy, still have headlights and emissions stuff in engine bay. I can shed some weight given time.

So far 10 for 10 on my local track, but competition is lacking. On the other track I go, im second overall for season but there are 5 bmw e46 and they are all a bit faster. I get a jump and near the end of the race my tires get greasy from holding them off and I lose a spot every race. I think I can hang onto first with a little more car development.

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