Thoughts on the new EBC RPX pads

[Mad Hatter]

With the high wear in the rear pads I assume you are with traction control?? Even Sport mode will chew them up very quickly. Once I turned TC off completely in a tune, the rear pads were a once a year change.

 

[MikeBard]

With the high wear in the rear pads I assume you are with traction control?? Even Sport mode will chew them up very quickly. Once I turned TC off completely in a tune, the rear pads were a once a year change.

No traction control. My car is an 05 so I don’t believe they have any of the nannys the coyote cars do. From my understanding the 05-06 traction control is even pretty dumbed down.
I’m going to talk to ebc and see if I can get a mu vs temp chart like they have for the RPX/RP1. My guess is I’m just getting them out of their temp range. I do start getting a longer pedal travel too as they get hot, but it never seems to increase stopping distance.

 

[Mad Hatter]

which brake fluid are you using? And do you have brake cooling ducts?

 

[MikeBard]

which brake fluid are you using? And do you have brake cooling ducts?

Wilwood EXP600+
We aren’t allowed to run cooling ducts. I have the 13-14 front shields sitting in my office but I haven’t gotten approval to use them. It’s a bit of a pain with it thing a new class and the scca trying to control things. The scca did a phone interview with me since I’ve been doing more track stuff with the car, so I’m hoping my opinions will hold more weight going forward.

 

[Mad Hatter]

For the brake liquid. I would suggest you take a look at this table.

Brake Fluid Comparison Shopping

Resource guide of all (125 listed) high performance automotive and racing brake fluids. Boiling points, cost comparison, Google Shopping links, manufacturer links, additional helpful info.

www.lelandwest.com

The Wet boiling point is the one to look at unless you change your brake fluid right before every event. Am a huge fan of Castrol SRF, its wet boiling point is 118 degrees higher then the Wilwood. It solved my soft pedals problems at the track. Its expensive, but you can change it once a year.

 

[MikeBard]

For the brake liquid. I would suggest you take a look at this table.

Brake Fluid Comparison Shopping

Resource guide of all (125 listed) high performance automotive and racing brake fluids. Boiling points, cost comparison, Google Shopping links, manufacturer links, additional helpful info.

www.lelandwest.com

The Wet boiling point is the one to look at unless you change your brake fluid right before every event. Am a huge fan of Castrol SRF, its wet boiling point is 118 degrees higher then the Wilwood. It solved my soft pedals problems at the track. It’s expensive, but you can change it once a year.

Are you bleeding between events with the srf? If it’s a put it in a forget it for the season I’d consider it. I put the wilwood stuff in before VIR in March and then did a quick bleed after each event. Just enough to push out what was in the calipers. I did get a couple bubbles on the rear, I’m not sure if some slipped in with my speed bleeder or if it boiled the fluid.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Are you bleeding between events with the srf? If it’s a put it in a forget it for the season I’d consider it. I put the wilwood stuff in before VIR in March and then did a quick bleed after each event. Just enough to push out what was in the calipers. I did get a couple bubbles on the rear, I’m not sure if some slipped in with my speed bleeder or if it boiled the fluid.

To be honest no. SRF is just set and forget it. I just change it at the start of the season. I know people who have used it for two seasons but that's a bit much.

There is a reason way its so expensive per Liter! But it turns out cheaper then constant bleeding with a lesser fluid.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

I always forget to figure in Madhatter's comments as I shut off all the " Nannies " and with them on it can cause more rapid rear brake pad usage. Good comment and something you and many others should consider.

 

[302BOB]

Nannies can be good and bad..........they're there for you and your ride....choose what you feel you need.............I didn't need no nannies back in the day in my '68 442..good thing because none were there to be had..but back then I felt I was indestructible............now-a-days Hon has to check the mail......Boss still calling.....Knee still bad...........I'm still hopin for the best....I didn't mean hoppin, all tho it apples right now.

 

[KazarS197]

This has me a bit nervous. I just installed RP-1s on the front and blue stuff on the rear with new rotors the whole way around - 6 pots front and OEM calipers rear. I was running g-loc 12 and 10s right from the go. I got 4 track days out of the fronts before they were all cracked and 4 mm left and 8 out of the rears. I was going to move to 16 and 12s because the 12s didn't like the heat but had the EBCs that I won here and figured give them a shot. One thing I did do is an actual bedding with the EBCs - fade 2 , 15 min cool down then fade 3 . Hopefully that will help with pad life. Don't ask how and where I was able to do the bedding..... I have a track weekend with Chin in May. It will be the a good test since over both days there's the potential for something like 7.5 hours of track time including the 1 hour sessions at the end of the day. My last session is right before the open session so will take a break, drink , car check, fill up and probably catch the last 30-40 minutes each day. The regular sessions are 30 and 40 minutes. I'll definitely keep an eye on the pads and plenty of time to build "trust" in them. I'll try to update after the weekend.

RP1 front and Blue Stuff rear update. Just pulled everything apart after memorial Day weekend with Chin @ Pitt Race. I would say a chin weekend is more like 3 days with other groups due to the longer sessions. Blues are basically shot. RP1s are a little over half worn and definitely harder on rotors than G-loc R12s. Performance wise I would say close to a R12 and R10 combo. I have 3 day weekend coming up - Labor Day . Everything will be flushed, rotors will be sanded and R16s and R12s will be ordered. RP1s will get thrown in a box for backups.

 

[MikeBard]

RP1 front and Blue Stuff rear update. Just pulled everything apart after memorial Day weekend with Chin @ Pitt Race. I would say a chin weekend is more like 3 days with other groups due to the longer sessions. Blues are basically shot. RP1s are a little over half worn and definitely harder on rotors than G-loc R12s. Performance wise I would say close to a R12 and R10 combo. I have 3 day weekend coming up - Labor Day . Everything will be flushed, rotors will be sanded and R16s and R12s will be ordered. RP1s will get thrown in a box for backups.

I had a similar experience with blues on the back. After talking with ebc I went with rpx’s front and rear and the car stops great. I had a caliper issue that cooked the drivers rear slightly but they held up very well to 2 days of Pocono infield. I’ll be trying them at pittrace again the end of August for “end of summer”. I bought another set of blues for the rear for autox. They (blues) have worked great so far for autox, I just don’t think they’re up to the task for track stuff despite their description.

 

[KazarS197]

I had a similar experience with blues on the back. After talking with ebc I went with rpx’s front and rear and the car stops great. I had a caliper issue that cooked the drivers rear slightly but they held up very well to 2 days of Pocono infield. I’ll be trying them at pittrace again the end of August for “end of summer”. I bought another set of blues for the rear for autox. They (blues) have worked great so far for autox, I just don’t think they’re up to the task for track stuff despite their description.

I chatted with Tim at OP Mustang and ended up ordering G-Loc 16 for the front and 10 for the rear. I won't touch EBC again due to the front rotor wear and grooves. I spent over an hour sanding them just to get semi smooth. G--locs were always rotor friendly. Are you heading out to Pitt for SCCA or Auto Interests?

 

[MikeBard]

I chatted with Tim at OP Mustang and ended up ordering G-Loc 16 for the front and 10 for the rear. I won't touch EBC again due to the front rotor wear and grooves. I spent over an hour sanding them just to get semi smooth. G--locs were always rotor friendly. Are you heading out to Pitt for SCCA or Auto Interests?

For the scca TT the end of august. It’s pittrace’s “end of summer” event. It’s a tt, road race, autox, and whatever else they do.
I have a set of rotors for the blues and a set for the rpx’s. They don’t seem to be grooving too bad on either one. I use rotors for track, and then throw them on the lathe and they become autox rotors. lol. Nothing fancy, the ones that are downgraded to autox started life as carquest and the current ones are Napa premiums.
I’m a gloc dealer but they have some awful customer service so I went with ebc because I waited literal weeks for a response and ebc has been tip top. I told them I would try a set once I wear out the ebcs but I haven’t gotten there yet.