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TRACK SET UP First steps / Advises needed

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Hello.
I just bought a 1000miles 2012 black LS (#478) looking to do some track events with it.
I have some track experience (did three seasons with my C6-Z06)
At first I want to do simple mods to get a feel for the car.
I was planning to get:

A set of R6 HOOSIER to fit the stock rims (265/35/19 + 295/30/19)
A set of CARBOTECH pads (XP12 - XP10) + MOTUL 600 fluid
A set of FRPP "T" shorter springs + FRPP adj. panhard bar
A camber plate kit (STEEDA or MM)
A COOLTECH rollbar + harness (saw a GT3 go over a guardrail at the end of a straight and ever since, I think a rollbar is a nice feature...)

What do I miss?
What settings for the front alignement?
THANK YOU FOR ANY ADVICE!
Patrick
 
I think you've got it covered but you might consider the FR P or K springs instead. There hasn't been a lot of feedback on the T springs from track use but the consensus is the other two I mentioned will be a bit firmer and reduce brake dive and body roll more. Most of us are running between -2 and -3 on the camber. Basically the more the better if your car is driven mostly on the track.

At some point you'll want to add LCA's and relocation brackets as minimum suspension mods and you can go crazy from there. ;)

Have fun out there!
 
NFSBOSS said:
I think you've got it covered but you might consider the FR P or K springs instead. There hasn't been a lot of feedback on the T springs from track use but the consensus is the other two I mentioned will be a bit firmer and reduce brake dive and body roll more. Most of us are running between -2 and -3 on the camber. Basically the more the better if your car is driven mostly on the track.

At some point you'll want to add LCA's and relocation brackets as minimum suspension mods and you can go crazy from there. ;)

Have fun out there!

Thank you for your feedback!

I chose the "T" springs just because they are the only ones specified for the BOSS...Too bad Ford does not indicate the specs of all their springs!

I was thinking about the M-5650-A (relocation brackets) + FMS-M-5649-R1 (tubular Control Arms) because I am lowering the rear suspension, but I thought that introducing poly bushings in a +/- stock setup could bring more bad than good...maybe I am wrong and should follow your advice.
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
I might suggest a more aggressive front pad if you're going to be running R6s. Maybe xp 20s or 24s? The xp12/10 setup will work great for street tires but may not be enough for sticky tires if you're really working the brakes. I'm running 20s right now on r-compounds and will be switching to the 24s for next year.
 
roadhouse said:
I might suggest a more aggressive front pad if you're going to be running R6s. Maybe xp 20s or 24s? The xp12/10 setup will work great for street tires but may not be enough for sticky tires if you're really working the brakes. I'm running 20s right now on r-compounds and will be switching to the 24s for next year.

I think the xp 24 are pretty new... Already available?
What would you suggest for the rear if I have 24's in the front?
20's?
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
Yeah the 24s are new. There are a few on here that are already using them would great results.

I talked to carbotech and they recommended 10s for the rear with 20s up front. I would still run 10s out back with the 24s.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,241
4,228
Santiago, Chile
Make sure you have the brake ducts!! I waited too long before installing mine, If you do not have them on already, really should put them in now.
 
Splatter said:
Make sure you have the brake ducts!! I waited too long before installing mine, If you do not have them on already, really should put them in now.
I had them on already but noticed the stock wheels touch the ducts at full turn...
I have to adjust that.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,241
4,228
Santiago, Chile
I had the same problem with my 275/35-19s up front. Solved it with a short section of rigid pvc pipe of a slightly smaller diameter about 8 inchs long.
 
I posted this sometime ago you might find something in here to help you out..............

I’ve got a ’12 if I was looking for one today this is what I’d do.

Low mileage, that goes without saying, and no mods.

Find a 2013 either a Laguna Seca if you want two seats or a base Boss if you don’t. If you choose a base Boss find one with Recaro/Torsen Diff, the torsen diff is one of the reasons this car can power out of turns, not all diffs are created equal.

1. The front end isn’t just cosmetic it has more frontal area open for cooling.

2. The lovers in the hood will decrease front end lift, this equals more front end down force.

3. Updated wiring harness with better connectors

Go to the Ford dealer and get the extended warranty. If you hurt the drivetrain down the road this will pay for itself.

Read the Boss owners supplement it will give you info on suspension setting, tire pressures, and other things like maintenance schedules when tracking the Boss in its stock form.

Basic Upgrades (these are in my opinion the basic things for tracking a Boss):

1. Remove the quad exhaust baffles

2. Remove the rear splats they will just melt, it’s behind the quad exhaust on the ‘12s not sure if the ‘13s have them

3. Get the Trackey if your car doesn’t have it. This will NOT affect the base warranty 3/36 – 5/50 unless Ford can prove the Trackey was responsible.

4. Brakes:

a. Brembo LCF600/660 or any other high quality race fluid

b. Titanium brake heat shields/shims, these will slow down the transfer of heat from the pads to the caliper keeping the brake fluid cooler (http://hardbrakes.com/)

c. Race pads (Carbotech / Pagid), stager the compounds more aggressive up front less in rear, i.e. Carbotexh XP12 front XP10 rear.

d. Ford Racing brake cooling ducts (standard with Laguna Seca)

e. Use the Ford rotor blanks when replacing, these are Brembo and if you have a good relationship with your Ford Parts Guy……..cheap

f. Get an athletic sock, cut off the elastic cuff leaving enough material so it can be doubled up, slide it over the brake reservoir cap, and now this will absorb any brake fluid that leaks from the reservoir saving your under hood paint

5. Ford Racing transmission cooling scoop (standard with Laguna Seca)

6. Any car tracked will end up needing a rear axle oil catch can/reservoir. Use either Bob’s Auto Sports “KR” style can (http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Mustang-axle-reservoir-KR-style-axle-reservoir.htm) or the Ford “Turkey baster”

7. The Boss has a high RPM engine, during the process of venting crankcase pressure back through the intake track, large amounts of oil, in the form of vapor can coat the inside of the intake track. This can dilute your gas, lowering its octane level. So get a JTL Oil Separator you’ll only need the passenger side, the JTL is good because it allows you to quickly remove it if needed for emissions testing.

8. Install a piece of screen in the lower fascia, this will keep out track debris saving the A/C condenser

Please remember these are the basics, for a DD that’s tracked a couple of times a year.
 
Boss_302 said:
I posted this sometime ago you might find something in here to help you out..............

Thank you for all these information!
I took a 12'LS because I have a 12'GT500 and wanted "the real Mustang nose" for the BOSS, if that makes sense to some of you...but I understand what you say and admit loving the yellow 2013!!!

I have tracked a Z06 for three years so I am aware of the typical "must do" little things when tracking a car... crankcase ventilation, rear axle ventilation in the case of the solid axle BOSS 302, brake pads and fluid, and protections against debris flying all over the place; In the radiator and around the wheels, on the body, etc... Two years ago, I had a hard plastic wheel well broken into pieces by rubber balls thrown by the tires while going out of the trajectory :)

I also want to take the quad exhaust away as I wish to substract as much weight as I will add with a roll bar...and the noise isn't making the car any faster + I do not want to face track dB limitations and hassle.

My main current concern is: Springs
I bought "T" springs because they are the official ones from Ford Racing for the BOSS.
I read that they might not be THE ones to track.
I might switch to the Eibach Sportline because I just can't stand the high butt and the overall 4x4 look of the car...and the "P" do not lower the car much.

Then I might look for Wheels and Tires
I am reading all sort of things about the square setup vs. the staggered one...
Not clear in my mind yet.
Stock, the LS is tail happy in the canyons...I would not want it to be any happier than that!
But then it's a question of swaybars and suspension tuning as well...

I guess I will first drive and drive and drive the mildly modified beast before going any further and do unnecessary or wrong mods.
BR
Patrick
 
NFSBOSS said:
I think you've got it covered but you might consider the FR P or K springs instead. There hasn't been a lot of feedback on the T springs from track use but the consensus is the other two I mentioned will be a bit firmer and reduce brake dive and body roll more. Most of us are running between -2 and -3 on the camber. Basically the more the better if your car is driven mostly on the track.

At some point you'll want to add LCA's and relocation brackets as minimum suspension mods and you can go crazy from there. ;)

Have fun out there!

Do you all weld the FRPP LCA relocation brackets on the axle or do you just bolt them on and go?
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
patrickshelby said:
Do you all weld the FRPP LCA relocation brackets on the axle or do you just bolt them on and go?

I did not weld, used red thread lock, no issues at all so far.

-Pete
 
Re: T springs.

I have the T springs with Koni Yellows and Vorshlag CC plates and it is a tremendous improvement in overall look and composure of the car, both on the track and on the street. I doubt one would find much difference from the P springs, than with an out and out coilover system. I would also caution you in going with the Sportlines or K springs as the drop is significant, potentially requiring a third link to correct the pinion angle and a bump steer kit for the front. Everything else is spot on. Don't forget some tow hooks.
 
further said:
Re: T springs.

I have the T springs with Koni Yellows and Vorshlag CC plates and is tremendous improvement overall look and composure of the car, both on the track and street. I doubt one would find much difference with the P springs, than with an out and out coilover system. I would also caution you in going with the Sportlines or K springs as the drop is significant, potentially requiring a third link to correct the pinion angle and a bump steer kit for the front. Everything else is spot on. Don't forget some tow hooks.
Thank you Further!
I guess this is what I needed to read.
I will install my "T" springs.

Yes I will have tow hooks!
I saw Blowfish Racing has a very nice front setup for the LS / Will check for a rear as well.
 
blacksheep-1 said:
You'll want to use one of these religiously and read the thread on "advanced track setup"

pita1_zps5d483876.jpg


https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6120.0
I'd love to but overseas tracks setup datas are not going to be much help to you :)
 
blacksheep-1 said:

Assuming he means that his setup for Silverstone isn't going to help you at Willow Springs. OP I think blacksheep means for you to use the configuration sheet to keep a record of your setup in an easy to read format.
 

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