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Turn DBA 4000 rotors after several track sessions?

Have DBA 4000 on front and rear with HP+ pads. These pads and rotors work pretty well during lenghty track sessions but they rotors are getting absolutly trashed. Can I or should I have them turned, replace pads, reburnish and go again. Or is it not advised to turn slotted/drilled rotors?
Thanks,
Rick
 
Are the rotors slotted? Most shops won't turn slotted rotors, so you may have a hard time finding a shop that will turn slotted/dimpled rotors.

I used HP+ pads on my corolla, and it used to work great as well. But like you mentioned, it trashed rotors after a single track day.
I got the chance to talk to Hawk rep at one of the events, and he mentioned that when the HP+ overheats, it hardens and destroys rotors even faster. Eventough you might not feel a difference in braking, the pad material has hardened. To his recommendation I upgraded to full racing compound and I've been using the same rotor since then, both on and off track (3 track weekends and ~1 year of street driving).
So with the boss, being a much heavier car and demanding on the brakes, I recommend you upgrade your pads to full racing pads or you're going to replace rotors multiple times a year. Especially when you start getting better and braking later and harder.
 
Hawk race pads dust bad and the dust is really nasty. You might want to look into something like Carbontech (never used them myself) or EBC if you are using them on a street car with nice rims. FWIW on my E30, the rotors last as long as one set of pads using Hawk Blue but the dust is eating my wheels.
 
I use Hawk DTC 70 front ant DTC 60 (Dynamic Torque Control) pads and they are fantastic. I only use quality rotors also, like Brembos or DBA (Disc Brake Australia). I have had sets of brake pads last me a dozen events. http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/compounds/

I personally don't like to turn rotors. I consider them consumables and toss them when they are spent.
Just my opinion and I don't have any facts to back up that statement but I just like to err on the side of my own (and my student / rider) safety. I personally don't want to make rotors any thinner as you raise the risk of a rotor failure.

Rene'
 
F.D. Sako said:
Are the rotors slotted? Most shops won't turn slotted rotors, so you may have a hard time finding a shop that will turn slotted/dimpled rotors.

I used HP+ pads on my corolla, and it used to work great as well. But like you mentioned, it trashed rotors after a single track day.
I got the chance to talk to Hawk rep at one of the events, and he mentioned that when the HP+ overheats, it hardens and destroys rotors even faster. Eventough you might not feel a difference in braking, the pad material has hardened. To his recommendation I upgraded to full racing compound and I've been using the same rotor since then, both on and off track (3 track weekends and ~1 year of street driving).
So with the boss, being a much heavier car and demanding on the brakes, I recommend you upgrade your pads to full racing pads or you're going to replace rotors multiple times a year. Especially when you start getting better and braking later and harder.
I think this is exactly what has happened to the pads. Now is sounds like metal grinding metal when I press on the brakes when they are cold. Sort of a sickening sound...
I'll just replace the pads to the DTC's and leave the rotors alone.
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
 

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