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What did you do to your Boss 302 or S197 today?

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Don't mention dogs....My Son's 2 boys were here over the weekend. My tennis ball stop I had hanging from the ceiling in the garage since I got #1886 has disappeared. Hon, being the protective "grandma" she is, vowed it couldn't have been her boys. I should have known, a housefly ran off with it!
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
Thanks, i have to try something. I lost brakes twice at poconos. Last year I boiled the rbf660 fluid. This year I blew up a set of dba 5000s

While going to the S550 PP calipers with GT500 rotors is your best option, I would also suggest that your current duct backing plates may have contributed to your problem.

They are round and are not dumping all the airflow into your hub. In addition to reducing airflow they may be contributing to uneven cooling off the rotor by dumping air on just the inner face of the rotor.

Whether you stick with the 14" rotors or go with the 15", try a backing plate with oval ducts such as those from Vorshlag or Kenny Brown. They will direct almost all the air into the hub of the rotor and give you better and more even cooling.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...197-3-diameter-brake-duct-backing-plates-pair

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...197-4-diameter-brake-duct-backing-plates-pair

http://store.kennybrown.com/product...e-2005-2014-mustang-boss-302-and-shelby-gt500

 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
I work awful slow. I got the front Watson bar in and will start working on the rear bars tomorrow. Had some alignment issues that I worked through and hope I don't have this issue with the read mounts. As I progress through this install, I often wondered why I didn't just have someone weld the thing in. Oh no, I want to remove the damn thing in case I ever have a back seat rider again. I haven't had someone back there for two years and probable never will again. Dumb ass. But I digress.

So, curious to know what comes first, the Watson roll bar or the Rear seat delete? Any thought from your gents who have done this? I really don't want to bolt this thing up tight and find out I have to take it out for the rear seat delete package.

(If it matters, I have the FRPP RSD kit)
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,551
5,283
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Kind of a chicken or egg question.

The bars have to be mounted before you can locate the holes in the rear seat delete panel. The panel need to go in to transfer the location.

Put the bar in, make your template for the delete panel holes. Remove the bars put the panel in, transfer location, Re,one, cut and put both back in.
Not sure a rear seat delete panel will go in if the bar is welded in. You would have to cut it up.
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
I'll get her in. I suppose my frustration stems from how long it's going to take. I thought it was going to be a weekend job but a combination of these old bag of bones and family considerations are making it one of the longest mods I've worked on for the Boss. Three days down and today will mark the fourth. Probably won't even get to the RSD kit this weekend. Five more years till retirement and then I'll have all the tyme in the world to bust my knuckles.

One thing I wish Watson would have done was use Nutserts (Rivnuts) instead of these brackets with welded nuts. They painted these brackets and painted them. I had issues with thread engagement because some of the paint got inside the nuts. I ended up having to chase the threads on almost every one of them to get the bolts in properly. Perhaps the brackets are stronger but seems to me, Nutserts would have made the job easier.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,203
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
While going to the S550 PP calipers with GT500 rotors is your best option, I would also suggest that your current duct backing plates may have contributed to your problem.

They are round and are not dumping all the airflow into your hub. In addition to reducing airflow they may be contributing to uneven cooling off the rotor by dumping air on just the inner face of the rotor.

Whether you stick with the 14" rotors or go with the 15", try a backing plate with oval ducts such as those from Vorshlag or Kenny Brown. They will direct almost all the air into the hub of the rotor and give you better and more even cooling.

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...197-3-diameter-brake-duct-backing-plates-pair

https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...197-4-diameter-brake-duct-backing-plates-pair

http://store.kennybrown.com/product...e-2005-2014-mustang-boss-302-and-shelby-gt500

There is also the 4" Oval to round ducts from www.specfabracing.com
All the air enters the eye of the rotor and the round end makes it super easy to get the hose on.
Jus' Sayin'....
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31632066_253479421891507_7546831436897058816_n.jpg

36305142_278161069423342_503709259054186496_n.jpg
 
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