Your Thoughts on my build.

Discussion in 'Road Racing Forum' started by Tri-bar, Nov 16, 2017.

  1. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    Thank you Jdee for your words, It's helps.
     
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  2. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    New Build update. Made some changes.
    Suspension,

    Front:
    H&R RSS Club Sport Single Adjustable Struts.
    Maximum Motorsports #Mm5CC-5 Caster/Camer Plates.
    H&R RSS Club Sport Springs 630lb/in.
    Watson Racing/Howe Extended Screw In Ball Joint.
    Ford Racing #M-3200-EPAS Boss 302R/S Electric Steering Rack.
    Ford Racing #M-3130-R4 Boss 302S Bumpsteer Kit.
    Ford Racing BOSS 302S Competition Front Bushing Kit.
    Watson Racing Adjustable Sway bar End Link Left Side.
    Moog #K80899 Non-Adjustable Sway Bar End Link Right Side.
    BMR Delrin 1 3/8 Inch Sway Bar Bushing Kit.
    Strano 35mm 3-Way Adjustable Sway Bar (Full Stiff).

    Rear:
    H&R RSS Club Sport Shocks.
    Eibach Coil Over Springs, 0800-250-0300 300lb/in.
    Hotchkis Double Adjustable Upper Control Arm.
    Maximum Motorasports Lower Rear Control Arms.
    Maximum Motorsports Rear Ride Height Adjusters
    Cortex #CWL-40-2000 Watts Link.
    Prothane #6314BL Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing.
    Watson Racing 1/2" Sway Bar.

    Brakes,

    Front:
    Ford Racing #M-2353-C Gen 1 Boss 302R\302S ABS Module.
    Brembo 14″ Pro Series Racing Brake Kit.
    Ford Racing 2010 Boss 302R 4" Brake cooling Kit.
    Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
    Pagid Racing Brake Pads:RS29 Yellow-1674.

    Rear:
    Autozone GT Slotted Rear Rotors.
    Ford GT500/Boss 302 Rear Calipers.
    Russels Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
    No Backing Plates.
    Pagid Racing Brake Pads:RS29 Yellow-8113.

    Engine,
    Ford Racing 2014 Aluminator N/A Motor.
    Ford Racing #M-9424-M50BR Boss 302 Intake Manifold.
    Prothane #PT-6505 Urethane Motor Mounts
    Mishimoto 3-core Aluminum Radiator.
    Moroso Aluminum Road Race Oil Pan.
    MMR Rear Head Coolent Cross Over Kit.
    Boss 302 Oil Cooler.
    Mishimoto Thermostatic Sandwich Plate 180*
    Setreb 924 Oil Cooler.

    Transmission,
    Stock Ford MT82.
    Barton Short Throw Shifter.
    Barton 2 Post Rear Trans Mount.
    MGW Shifter Arm Bushings.
    Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch.
    Exedy Lightweight Racing Flywheel.
    Exedy Hydraulic Throwout Bearing/Slave Cylinder.
    Ford 13-14 Shelby Clutch Master Cylinder
    Steeda Clutch Assist Spring
    Ford Racing 3.5 Aluminum Drive Shaft.

    Rear End,
    Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differential.
    Ford OEM 3.73 Gears.

    Exhaust,
    Boss 302 H-pipe W/side pipes.
    Ford Racing GT500 Mufflers.

    Rims and Tires:
    Street: 4 AMR Silver 18x10.
    275-40-18 Nexen N FERA SUR4G.

    Track: 4 Apex EC-7 Silver 18x11
    305-35-18 Nitto NT-01 tires.

    Exterior:
    Tiger Racing Hood.
    4 Watson Racing Hood Pins.
    Ford 2010 White Cobra Jet Grille
    Boss 302R Wing (Grand Sport, Steeda Wing).
    Boss 302 Street Splitter.

    Interior:
    Ford Racing Recaro Seats.
    Ford Racing LS Rear Seat Delete.
    Watson Racing 4 Point Roll Bar.
    Boss 302 Dash.
    Boss 302 Cluster.
    Ford Racing LS Gauge Pod.
    Roush Vent Pod.
    Ford Racing Gauges:
    Water Temp.
    Oil Pressure.
    Oil Temp.
    DPic.
    Crow 5 Point Harness (Driver Only).
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2019
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  3. Bill Pemberton

    Bill Pemberton TMO Addict

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    What part of the Country are you in, and where have you been tracking the Tinkermobile lately?
     
  4. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    The "Tinkermoble" is in California. So Button Willow, Laguna Seca, Sears Point, Thunder Hill, Willow Springs. I have yet to do Auto Club and really want to.
     
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  5. Bill Pemberton

    Bill Pemberton TMO Addict

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    Sounds like you need to hook up with the ton of members we have in your State. Have you considered running with NASA, since you could run everything from HPDEs, to Time Trials , to eventually door to door again ( if you wanted too)?

    I have run Buttonwillow and Thunderhill , and though far away the other three are on my " bucket list," for running sometime in my lifetime.
     
  6. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    As much as I miss Door to door. The body repair bills as I remember was high. But time trials might be fun. I did the Silver State classic back in the 80's and had a blast. I have more time now, sadly. So you never know. If I go door to door, I will not be with this one. Will build another car.
     
  7. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

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    @Tri-bar has been to a TMO track day at LS. He's a true gear head.

    I've always wanted to do the Silver State 100

    https://sscc.us/
     
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  8. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    Why thank you, that's so nice of you to say.
     
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  9. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    So here my take on the H&R RSS Club sports Struts and shocks. Keep in mind that I have run and tested damn near every thing out there. KW/Roush, Koni, Bilstein, Tockico D-Specs, Ford Racing Shachs coil overs for the Boss 302S, KW v3's and last the JRI's singles. I bought the H&R kit with the 630/515 spring set new for around $1400+. Once the box came, I unboxed it all. It's very well packaged with no chance of damage. The build on the struts and shocks are top notch. The main strut body is a custom built one from H&R. Polished stainless steel housing, not paint. With the inverted strut sourced from Bilstein. H&R reworks it to fit their adjustable piston rod. It is one solid unit. Side by side the H&R unit is shorter than the JRI unit. 20190402_125204[1].jpg

    As you can see side by side. The H&R is much shorter. Once it's on the car when you raise it off the ground, there is very little drop. The adjuster is on the bottom. Not the easiest to work with but one turn of the wheel gives you access to the adjuster. I had to set my adjustment range to match because it didn't seem set from the factory as even. Playing with them for 40 min got them evened out to match. Once set, I adjusted them from soft 6 clicks or 50% dampening.

    The rear shocks are in custom, polished stainless steel housings. Compression valving is set super stiff. I got blisters on my palms from trying to compress them. The are under pressure so the rebound comes back swiftly. Setting them side by side with other shocks really showed how short they are. They are even shorter than the Roush/KW shocks mounting point to mounting point, that was a shocker! The rear shock are not adjustable.

    When I first installed them, I only installed the fronts and used the JRI's in the rear. Set ride height, from ground to fender lip 27 inches. That placed the spring really high up there. 20190402_201632[1].jpg

    Spring rate is 630lbs. You might think that is stiff. You would be wrong. As it turns out, it was dead perfect. With my front Strano sway bar on full stiff and the 50% dampening it turns out right on the money. The spring has a working range on maybe 3 inches. The rest are dead coils that act as a helper spring. Using the JRI rear coil overs with 225lbs springs, The beast was very well behaved. After that I installed the H&R rear set up, The Shocks and the 515lbs rear springs. It wasn't too bad. Just a tad of overseer on power, exit of the corners. Pulled it all out, put the JRI's back in and ran that for a few days. It was damned smooth, ate up bumps like they didn't even exist. Life was good.

    UNTIL I went to put on my newly gotten Apex 18x11 wheels with 305-35-18 NT-01 tires. That's when the set up ran afoul. The Wheel hit the coil over adjuster at drop. So what to do. I ordered Maximum Motorsports rear adjustable spring seats. Moved the springs inboard, up the rate to 300lbs. Added 10 clicks the JRI's. Now also at 50% dampening. 30 clicks out of 60 and was all good. The beast rode smooth over the bumps. Had good grip into and out of the corners. For a what the hell moment, I put on the rear H&R shocks on. Well, they are staying on. The ride is a tad firmer but well controlled over the rough stuff. bumps do not upset the rear at all, it just eats them up. When the street tires on the car, grip into and out of the corners is well like a race car, fast in fast out. Then I test drove the new wheel and tire combo. It is GOD like, grip for days and might give you change back at the end of the day. I can power on so much earlier at the apex it's scary.

    H&R claims their strut and shocks have dynamic dampening. They really seem to. With the fronts set to 50% dampening and the rears set to whatever the factory sets them at, they just works. Freeway speeds you feel the uneven stuff as any car would. but if you hit a bump, it goes over it with no fan fair. I now hit bumps the would upset the car with other strut/shock setups, even the JRI's and acts like they aren't even there. It was very nice to see that. The claim is big but I have to say, for my car. H&R has the best setup I have ever tried. There are cons however. Don't use the rear springs. They are just to dang stiff. It's not that it's a bad ride. Better than a lot of setups. They add over-steer to the car. I run a small rear bar, 1/2 inch small and the 515lbs springs are to much. Drop down to a lighter spring, I picked 300lbs and it worked out great. The other con is the adjuster on the front strut is on the bottom. You hjave to turn the wheel to gain access, then you get dirty on the ground adjusting them. Not a fan. The good is set it up once and forget it, I don't think you will ever need to change it.

    There is my $0.02 worth. It is a surprise that something at that value point can be so damned good. I might have to buy another set just to keep as a back up.
     
  10. Boone

    Boone TMO Advanced

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    I have the H&R Street Sports on my car, but I run 200TW classes, so they do all right. I have eyed the RSS, and I'm glad to hear your experience is positive. One question, the picture of your JRI coilover from Cortex appears to have the offset on them. The RSS doesn't appear to. How did you fit the 18x11 rims on them? I assume the rims are ET52 offset. I would think you'd need at least a 25mm spacer, and you'd have a good bit of poke unless you are running -3 degrees of camber.

    Thanks for all the excellent information you have provided on your thread. Subscribing. Educate me.
     
  11. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    I use the Kohr 3/4 spacer. With the ET52 offset, there is about 1/8 of a inch stick out at the top give or take, with -2.8 to -3 degrees camber. It looks very clean. The front to rear stick out is very even. Not a big fan of the tires sticking out passed the wheel arch. With the 18x11's it doesn't upset me at all.
    RR-1006-19-e1492526392289.jpg
     
  12. neema

    neema TMO Race

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    Pictures are worth a thousand words... post up the new wheels on the car!
     
  13. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    I will as soon as I put them back on.
     
  14. Boone

    Boone TMO Advanced

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    Neema beat me to it. I also want to know your strut clearance. I'm feeling like I settled when I committed to 19x10 ET40. I'm a little salty.
     
  15. Tri-bar

    Tri-bar TMO Race

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    Here are the requested photos.
    20190517_212635.jpg 20190517_212735.jpg 20190517_212833.jpg 20190517_212845.jpg 20190517_212918.jpg 20190517_213057.jpg 20190517_233322.jpg 20190517_233328.jpg 20190517_233401.jpg 20190517_233408.jpg
     
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  16. Bill Pemberton

    Bill Pemberton TMO Addict

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    Off the subject a bit , but it seems your front fascia, mine, and many others have that same fitment up front --- just not quite flush at the seam, ha?!

    Nice rims , by the way.
     
  17. TymeSlayer

    TymeSlayer Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...

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    Amazing to me how easy it is to see a relatively small negative camber like 2-3 degrees. With a 25mm spacer and -2.6 camber on my front 19x11 Apex wheels, my view is quite similar. I'm left with 4-5mm clearance and the protrusion front the front wheel well is quite similar to @Tri-bar
     
  18. Boone

    Boone TMO Advanced

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    Thanks for following up. I feel like I left some rim width on the table. I'll just spend my time optimizing my stuff.
     

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