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VooDooBOSS said:I asked about that yesterday and they didn't have an answer. Fortunately they use a radial mount which makes removing the caliper about a two minute event vs 20 on our cars.
He was referring to the procedure on the S197 cars. Many of us have stripped or had to clean up the threads on our stock Brembo calipers. My Stoptech spec Mustang kit uses a radial mount like what is on the new GT350. Soooo much better. I wish the rears on the 350 used a radial mount as well.ChopSui said:Pretty sure the spindles are aluminum on the gt350
Would you happen to have a shop manual link that shows this? Torque specs on the bolts?ArizonaBOSS said:This. Two easily-accessible jet-nuts and the caliper is off in a flash. Should be much faster.
Looks like both pad and rotor replacement are easier with that setup than the S197 versions.VooDooBOSS said:The jet nuts are 44 ft lbs on my Stoptechs.
VooDooBOSS said:Yes they are aluminum and I'm sure they use metal studs. The ones on my Stoptech kit look to be SS.
That's my plan but I won't remove them until the first time I need to service the rotors. I think part of their function is to keep water off of them in the rain and I rarely drive mine in the rain, at least not on purpose. :TMSBOSS said:Nice photo. I assume for track prep we will remove the backing plate/dust shield??
ChopSui said:That doesn't look like a nut on the end of that caliper. Looks more like some kind of hex socket bolt. Am I seeing that right?
I was wondering the same thing after posting that photo. No posts like my Stoptech setup which is a shame. I wonder if it can be converted? Not screwing a steel bolt into aluminum (again) would be my preference.ChopSui said:That doesn't look like a nut on the end of that caliper. Looks more like some kind of hex socket bolt. Am I seeing that right?
If it's what I'm thinking, I might need to get a bigger tube of anti-seize.
The recommended torque seemed excessive on the stock calipers but I understand that on a street car where the calipers get removed once every 50k miles it's not an issue. I was also using lower torque and no additional loctite on mine. Please use loctite if you're not checking yours regularly.Black Boss said:Certainly looked like Steel on Aluminum, so more Anti-seize! Even with improved brakes, pads are going to be changed often...
I've been using Anti-seize with 10% lower torque on the Boss for over a year -- no issues loosing torque, and no more striped threads from the loctite! I would't advocate for a daily driver that does't get torque checked frequently.....