Hey guys, figured I'd add to this thread rather than creating another. My car is still in pieces pending a gauge install, but the oil cooler is in a "done" enough state that I think I can contribute here. I'll update as the project progresses.
I'm writing this more as a brain dump for my install process rather than a whole how-to. This was the first project I took on for my car where I didn't get a kit and a step-by-step guide on installation. So I'm hoping this helps for those who are trying to wrap their heads around what's involved in adding an oil cooler.
I ended up going with a pretty common configuration: deleting the stock boss oil cooler and adding a Setrab 948.
Parts used:- Setrab thermostatic sandwich plate
- 06mach1's 9-series oil cooler mount
- Setrab 948
- Nomex (??) honeycomb (there seems to be a shortage of this stuff during pandemic. Not sure if it's actually Nomex. I used a 15"x14" sized rectangle to cover the 948, including the end tanks)
- Derale 13001 Plastic rod mounting kit (these go in the spaces right next to the tanks of the Setrab cooler to mount the honeycomb. No need to bend fins)
- AL3Z-6890-A (this spud/adapter is what the hollow sandwich plate fastener will thread onto in order to clamp the sandwich plate to the engine's oil filter adapter)
Parts from anhosefittings.com (Raceflux):- 82" of their nylon braided hose (though I'd started with 15 feet!)
- four 90deg hose ends (nice thing about these is that they swivel before tightening, really helpful when mocking up your hose runs)
- four m22x1.5 to 10an ORB fittings (two for the cooler, two for the sandwich plate)
- two "P" shaped hose mounting clamps
- four hose separators (these helped substantially in keeping my hoses well-spaced. see pics.)
Miscellaneous parts/hardware:- 1/8" x 1" steel bar stock for lower oil cooler brackets
- m6 hardware for the lower brackets
- tons of rubber fender washers for damping vibes on the lower brackets
- spray-on truck bed liner to make the brackets look nice
- Tap Magic cutting oil -- prolongs the life of your drill bits!
Job-specific tools:- Vibrant performance 2989 hose cutting shears (not necessary, but highly recommended. Saved my from having to tape my cuts, bust out an angle grinder/etc. and made very clean cuts)
- Earl's 1004ERL Vice Jaws (for holding AN hose securely in your bench vise. Not necessary but highly recommended)
Routing:
I routed my lines on the driver's side just under where the stock horn location is, with the goal being to reduce the length of hose run. 90deg hose ends on the oil cooler side were a given, but I also ended up using 90deg ends on the sandwich plate side as well. I couldn't see a way to use a gentler angle for that. It just clears the front ARB and the harness that runs along the oil pan by a centimeter or more. I had to make another couple of brackets to hold the lines up close to the horns so that they wouldn't foul on the plastic undertray. I'll need to revisit this once I get the car together, as I'm sure additional cutting will be required.
Things of note on parts
Setrab sandwich plate
this was before filing. Forgot to take a pic of the finished product.
I was debating the setrab ($100) vs improved racing's sandwich plate ($250!), and ended up going with the cheaper option. I figured that I could buy a whole 'nother replacement setrab plate and still be under the cost of the improved racing plate. Though the setrab unit's thermostat is serviceable, it's a call-in-to-buy part, vs improved racing who have the rebuild kits readily available on their site. The casting is definitely rough (see pics). It seems like they do a bit to deburr the edges but it leaves a lot to be desired. The rough finish probably doesn't take away anything from function, but just to be sure, I filed down the edges for a smoother transition in and out of the sandwich plate.
Also, this sandwich plate
does work with the bigger CM-6731-FL820 oil filter. The max diameter of the seating surface is 3", and the max diameter of the filter seal is 3", even though the actual body of the filter extends past the seating surface of the sandwich plate.
Lower cooler brackets
I copied the mounting that Black Boss had suggested, by drilling holes in the splitter bracket on the 302s bumper bar. One tip for doing the bends on bar-stock: use blocks of wood on each side of the intended bend and bend over a sturdy 90deg angle (such as the edge of the anvil on a bench vise) to get clean bends. No need for a hammer and blowtorch.
Hose brackets
You can get a nice twist for brackets like these by holding bar stock in a bench vise, and twisting in a uniform motion with pliers.
AN hose fittings
For those who have been putting off an oil cooler because of AN hoses, DON'T! The assembly process is quite straightforward. Just make sure to lubricate the ends/threads of the barbed end of the hose end fitting. It makes assembly much easier and keeps the rubber on the inside of the hose from getting chewed up and compromising the integrity of the hose/end union. Once assembled, make sure your hoses are clear of debris -- this is important if you used a hacksaw or angle grinder to make your cuts. I just ran water through my hoses, and blew out the excess. Small droplets should boil out once the oil gets hot enough.
Resources
That's about it. Hopefully this is helpful for those who are considering adding an oil cooler.
I'll update this post once I get the car buttoned up.