Callmejnasty94 said:

I would love to know where you got this front splitter.

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C2aero.com Gt500 splitter. I got it from DaveW, when he switched aero packages.

Some pictures from the 5/28/23 STL event.

Been awhile since I made an update. Life has been bumping. Swamped with overtime at work, taking a promotion, and buying a house.

Coilovers are waiting to be installed on the car when I can find the time. At least the stang has a new place to sleep now. No more laying in a dirt and gravel driveway to install parts.So many things on my to-do list now.

-Guy owned the house since ~1970 and has not been inhabited for the last two years. Family was just using the pool. So electrical needs updated, interior needs a face-lift, appliances to buy.

-I need to buy a cheap gas saving car for work. New drive is 66miles a day. 93octane and 4.10s are thirsty.

Well, it has been awhile since I posted. Car is almost ready for the season. Making the move to coil-over front suspension with Vorshlag rear height adjuster setup. Rebuilt axle housing, Moser axles, 3.31s, and a whiteline setup will be coming from Dave @ SPS. Most likely will have him align/corner balance after the upgrades.
Then I will have to decide what tires I want to run this season. Ran RT660s up to ~190 runs before I corded them with some road driving also.

Tis the season. Major surgery on the car. Swapped rear axle assembly. Went from 4.10s/ pnahard bar/ StreetPro setup to 3.31s / watts link / coil overs 450/175 springs!

Unfortunately, I think I busted a rear shock already. That's my luck. So I'll probably swap the StreetPro rear shocks back in so I can send these to be fixed.

If that's a Whiteline Watts linkage set up you have on it you should inspect the bell crank part on the diff. Not sure if that's the correct description. Its the part the two rods connect to on the diff cover, some call it a propeller. Anyway, the "pins" that those two arms ride on have next to nothing for a weld holding them to the prop/bell crank. The pins are only welded on the back side and then the welds are ground off flush. The pins are a tight fit and no bevel on either piece for decent weld penetration. I autocross my car, no curb hitting or hopping. I replaced it with a new piece from Whiteline, doesn't look any better then the old one. Going to have a local welder fix the old one. A little beveling will get better penetration, possibly make new pins to get a solid post in the hole, there id no need for the retaining bolt hole to pass all the way thru the pin, a blind hole would be fine. I'm sure Whiteline did the thru hole for ease of manufacturing.

IIRC, the Whiteline Watts link that Grassroots Motorsports used on their CAM Mustang autocros car also broke at the bellcrank / propeller. There really ought to be another bellcrank plate on the outside, so the pivot and arm bolts are in double shear. And in a perfect world, a fixed plate outside that which connects back to the diff, so the pivot bolt is completely in double shear. The BMR Watts is chassis-mount rather than diff-mount, but this pic shows what I'm talking about --

.........just another example of why Blacksheep 1 does not like a Watts Link , hehe!

Dave_W said:

IIRC, the Whiteline Watts link that Grassroots Motorsports used on their CAM Mustang autocros car also broke at the bellcrank / propeller. There really ought to be another bellcrank plate on the outside, so the pivot and arm bolts are in double shear. And in a perfect world, a fixed plate outside that which connects back to the diff, so the pivot bolt is completely in double shear. The BMR Watts is chassis-mount rather than diff-mount, but this pic shows what I'm talking about --
View attachment 94155

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I thought about reworking the set up for double shear, that's a future project. For now a decent weld will do.

Awe, come on guys. At least let me get an autocross or two in with it before you make me paranoid. Lol.

xr7 said:

I thought about reworking the set up for double shear, that's a future project. For now a decent weld will do.

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Does whiteline still make replacement parts or are we on our own if it does break?

Panhard bars are cheap.....

blacksheep-1 said:

Panhard bars are cheap.....

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I have a whiteline adjustable bar on standby.

Dave_W said:

IIRC, the Whiteline Watts link that Grassroots Motorsports used on their CAM Mustang autocros car also broke at the bellcrank / propeller. There really ought to be another bellcrank plate on the outside, so the pivot and arm bolts are in double shear. And in a perfect world, a fixed plate outside that which connects back to the diff, so the pivot bolt is completely in double shear. The BMR Watts is chassis-mount rather than diff-mount, but this pic shows what I'm talking about --
View attachment 94155

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Tagging @LIGISTX - he modified the Whiteline Watts recently.

Proto said:

Does whiteline still make replacement parts or are we on our own if it does break?

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Parts are still available, Whiteline has a warehouse in Cali, IIRC. They were very nice to deal with and got the part fast.

for those scoring at home, here's a little history. you can post over there and not ruin this guys thread.

Proto said:

Well, it has been awhile since I posted. Car is almost ready for the season. Making the move to coil-over front suspension with Vorshlag rear height adjuster setup. Rebuilt axle housing, Moser axles, 3.31s, and a whiteline setup will be coming from Dave @ SPS. Most likely will have him align/corner balance after the upgrades.
Then I will have to decide what tires I want to run this season. Ran RT660s up to ~190 runs before I corded them with some road driving also.

View attachment 93336

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I have enjoyed the Nankang CR-S much more than the RT660's for track use. Be sure to get the revised compound CR-S if you do.

Both excellent choices for the track, but for those running 19s the Falkens have a better range of tire sizes in my estimation. Nankang goes from a too skinny ( imho ) size of 275 directly to a 325 ( too large for many Mustangs ). In the 18s there is a great range with both tires giving one two solid choices on tires that both are good for autocrossing and each brand seems to have a longer track life than the killer Bridgestone RE71RS and the Yokohama A052 ( both still considered by most as the two top dogs for cone crushing and careening ).

I was going to try the Nankang's but apparently Nankang has a problem with customs, shipping containers are being sent back to the manufacturer. I choose to buy another set of Falken's. I am bumping up to 315/30-18s.
Quote from Phil's Tires:
UPDATE: There is an ongoing situation with all incoming containers of Nankang AR-1 and CR-S v2. This affects ALL dealers in the US. Containers have been turned away and are being sent back to Nankang by request of the NHTSA while the situation is being resolved. It is unclear when they will be sent back to the US. Nankang is doing everything possible to address the issue.
We are extremely frustrated by this and all we can do is wait. Thank you for understanding.
We have sufficient inventory in many sizes of Nankang AR-1, CR-S v2, and CR-S v1. We are doing our best to update our inventory on the website on a daily basis.

Interesting update and I am sure everyone is appreciative. Nankangs are made in Taiwan and not mainland China so one wonders about the issue? Super good info as this could cause some sanctioning bodies ( like SCCA or NASA ) to not allow Nankangs for competition due to lack of inventory. Most likely with SCCA as this has happened in the past, and if one checks TireRack it does show " Limited Availability " with many sizes.