Do you make another version for the S197 or do these fit both?
Edit, found 'em. thanks
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What is everybody using to lift their Mustang off the ground?
- Thread starterJunkyard Dog
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Edit, found 'em. thanks
I make them for the s197 and s550. They are different.
It's good steel, but sheet metal on an edge will bend if you apply the load off-axis. It's a cheap way to keep from screwing up your car.
- Thread starter
- #45
So before you have the jacking rails, you want to install the jacking rails. You lift the car and keep it in the air to install the rails how?
Jackstands on subframes or high wheel cribs.
I’m new to the s197 but this thread pointed me to ZL1’s frame rail pads & I’m happy w them so far. I drive my ‘08 up on these $30/pr. 3” high short ramps & can then get my floor jack under the front crossmember & rear diff to lift it onto jackstands.
I got the zl1 pads set screw on pinch welds one each corner. Then use floor jack with pinch weld adapter lift in middle of door put 2 jack stands on jack pads. Can go do the other side and car is fully up on stands. Did this at track several times. Quick and easy
I was able to install mine just fine with the car on the ground. Maybe a little awkward, but it's just securing a few bolts in existing holes.
As for the jacking rails themselves, I may be in the minority here but I found them to be more annoying when trying to put the car on actual jackstands since the fit inside the jack stand U-groove was sketchy and awkward (at least with the full length version). Now, I just have one of those ZL1 stealth lift pads in the center point of each pinch weld so that I only have to jack once on each side of the car and I find the order of operations to be much faster.
- Thread starter
- #50
So you have the one ZL1 Add Ons stealth lift pad in the center. You jack that side of the car.
Then you put the jack stands where? Don't you still need additional lift pads for the jack stands? Am I asking stupid questions?
It seems you would need six lift pads to do that - one for the jack, and two for the jack stands on each side of the car. 3 x 2 = 6.
I just place jack stands on the factory pinch welds in their marked locations. No additional lift pads. Maybe I use an old rag between the pinch weld and Jack stand but that's not necessary. Once you go through rotating tires and changing brake pads dozens of times you figure out what works best for you.
I also installed my jacking rails with the car on the ground. There's enough room.
TMSBOSS
Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
Exactly what I used on my 350R. Works Great...once you get the holes drilled through the armor plate.....steel ford puts in the pinch welds.
That steel is strong. After installing quite a few of these I've found that starting with a 5/16" pilot point bit helps. Once the.bit stops drilling, then I switch to 1/8" and then work my way up to 5/16.
TMSBOSS
Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
I started with cobalt drill bits which scratched the surface and left a simple. Then I used a die grinder with a round burr bit. Strangely enough, the burr worked well.
Not a bad idea!
Fabman
Dances with Racecars
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Bend Pack and Quick Jacks.
Late to the party here, but as many others - Steeda jacking rails, low profile jack, and jack stands have worked just fine for me. I'd love a QuickJack but being semi-retired now, I just can't justify the expense when the basic setup works good enough for me.
I also must be a more aggresive driver through obstacles than I thought because one look at my beat-up jacking rails confirms they are also great protection for my undercarriage.
I also must be a more aggresive driver through obstacles than I thought because one look at my beat-up jacking rails confirms they are also great protection for my undercarriage.
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