OK, so it's a similar rate, but this will be a different part # with two counterwound rear springs. The Mach 1 only used the ~650 #/in rate on the passive car.
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Advice on setup for street and track!
- Thread starterRodpwnz
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...or a little more applicable around here, @cjatrains.
The 268# GT500 front with this rear looks like the best combo around using FoMoCo springs on a MR car.
That's not really how it works. The springs are what they are. Damping forces are varied based on all sorts of different inputs. The response of the electronics have improved, but they were already faster than the physical damper architecture can support, so a marginal gain. I know they worked with Multimatic on the damper tuning, so there will be improvements in that regard.
If you're ever ridden a motorcycle, you've driven a dog box. It's no big deal. You'll be fine.
Let me improve your braking performance for the rest of your life...brake with your right foot. There's no need for you to try to relearn braking along with everything else. The advantage of left-footing a GT car is minimal at best and it encourages a lot of bad habits which then have to unlearned. Just stick with what you know. Twist your foot to the right to blip the throttle on the way down through the box. It's 3 downshifts max and the braking zones are a mile and a half long. There's no rush. You're going to have plenty on your plate without trying to fundamentally change how you drive.
Done very well, left-foot braking opens up some options to manipulate the car dynamically, but only after a lot of training. Anyone starting after the age of 40 is too late. Anyone doing it for speed needs to be faster than Ben Keating before worrying about it.
TeeLewism #65: A man's left foot is the second slowest learning appendage on a his body.
Yeah agreed but it’s never too late to learn new tricks. Being abifootadextrus can’t hurt but i agree been driving around town with left foot braking and it’s terrible lol. The new car has a damn roller accelerator so it to might be difficult to heel toe downshift but all that can be fixed. And not getting in a rush a good idea for sure it will be a slow process
On another note i love how howe racing gives you and instruction book on car setup. Factory cars are a little harder to adjust…..As this thread will attest too
On another note i love how howe racing gives you and instruction book on car setup. Factory cars are a little harder to adjust…..As this thread will attest too
@cjatrains
what day and operator were you with? I was there July 1 and 2 with Chin. Intermediate group. Is that when you were there? If so we were on track together. I was driving my C7 Grand Sport blue #77. Traffic was intense but better the second day as usual. It was HOT. My car had no trouble but the track was greasy. With redesigned and faster bus stop my times were better than ever mostly 2:15 with one 2:14. My buddy in a C6 got a new PB 2:12.
My FR500S was in the shop that day. I will be back at WGI this coming Tuesday with Trackmasters and the Mustang.
I was driving with SCDA, Monday & Tuesday 7/13 - 7/14, the INT2, Intermediate Lvl2 group. I need to go and research the best way to add Actual Coolant and Oil Temp sensors and Gauge(s) to this car. Frankly it infuriates me for what I paid for a brand new 22 Mach 1 with the Recaros, Handling Package etc. I am only provided CHT with no way to truly know what oil temps I am running. I spoke to 4 other drivers while I was there in GM vehicles, Cadillacs and C7 Corvettes that were reporting oil temps 285 - 295. That's hot IMHO if you're running the motor to, or near redline lap after lap, for 25 minutes.
TMSBOSS
Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
I added oil temp, low pressure and water temp gauges to my Mustang when I started tracking it. I knew before I bought what was there and what was not then planned accordingly. I added Auto Meter Elite series gauges so I could have accurate temps along with programable alerts. They work great. I get green flashing alert when temps are low during warm up and red alerts when she is hot. I’m fairly sure corvettes and caddies don't have that either.
Have you considered the GT350/500 center gauge cluster ? I added it to my factory stock car and even though it uses data from algorithms, it is plug and play. I just ran Road America during hot & humid weather 4th of July, 25 minute sessions and my oil temps got to 230*. The digital center gauges (CHT, rear diff & oil pressure) are were well within acceptable range.
I have considered it several times since purchasing the car Nov 2022. I really don't want to rely on calculated or algorithmic values that I have no idea how they're calculated. I am glad it's working for you, just not a solution I am willing to pursue.
Kinda expensive but top of the line at $3,464.60 !!
I went through my saved web sites that explained digital displays. I figured if Ford engineers used digital, they had the correct sensors to relay that data to the PCM, to show us the values. So I’m comfortable with the digital data.
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www.veethree.co.nzMy concern isn't whether digital gauges can be made to great accuracy. I trust the that the Thermister that's measuring the temperature of the Aluminum cylinder head is quite accurate. My question is there's at least 2 factors (variables) contributing the metal cylinder head temperature, Oil Temperature and Coolant Temperature, if one isn't measuring one of those quantitatively, I don't see how the numbers extrapolated for both parameters can be 100% trusted. I imagine there are multiple combinations of coolant and oil temperature that result in the same CHT.
So CHT is not a sensor, either? It is a computer calculated value???
My understanding is that CHT is an actual value measuring the temperature of the Aluminum Cylinder head via a sensor technology called a Thermistor. So it is measuring and recording the actual temperature of the aluminum. The benefit is that even if the coolant system had air pockets, boiling, leakage etc in which case the coolant sensor wouldn't function accurately, as it can only measure liquid, the Thermistor is accurate all the time as it's measuring metal temperature.
So I am good with CHT, but I want Oil Temperature actual, as well, so I know if I am in danger of initial Thermal Degradation of the motor oil which can start around 275 to 305 degrees depending on the exact specs of the oil we're using.
So I am good with CHT, but I want Oil Temperature actual, as well, so I know if I am in danger of initial Thermal Degradation of the motor oil which can start around 275 to 305 degrees depending on the exact specs of the oil we're using.
Why bother with real gauges just keep CHT on dash and don't let it go past 245F. Problem solved and no gauges needed. In practice the ECU pulls timing at anything over 219F so keeping it below that will be ideal. Providing you are with OEM ECU mapping the engine will protect itself anyway.
The GT500 water pump seems to have been a big help for our M1. That and closing up any air leak paths around the radiator if you’re struggling with temp issues.
Thanks for the heads up on the Water Pump from a GT500. I did remove the bumper cover and sealed up all the gaps on both sides and the bottom of the radiator. At the same time I installed the Dewitts 70 mm thick aluminum radiator, and the Reischle 170 degree thermostat. The number and size of the air leaks around the radiator on my Mach 1 was really pathetic, and definitely not confidence inspiring !
The gap along the entire Driver's side I could put my fingers through, and then both top sides between the AC condenser and the radiator had huge gaps for air to escape.
Reduced the A/F to Distilled water concentration to 30%/70% and added one bottle of Red Line Water Wetter, and if I wasn't short shifting I would still have hit 240 CHT. Ambient temps day two at the Glen were low to mid 90's
Is this a part that required a lot of fabrication to install?
Was it custom made?
How much effect did this change alone have on your temperatures?
So not custom made.
Yes because I have an A10, I had to make modifications to hang the stock ATF heat exchanger on it, sandwiched between the condenser and the radiator. I ended up cutting aluminum blocks, drilling and tapping them and JB Welding them to the aluminum tank. The quotes I got for welding them on were ridiculous and the ATF cooler doesn't weigh much.
Can't honestly tell you that I have seen significant temperature reductions, on track, where it counts. It does recover pretty fast, but I expected better results. I also installed an MP concepts front hood with the large Shelby Style vent in the center of the hood. Obviously driving to and from the track, CHT never gets over 190, but that wasn't a problem before.
My assumption is that in spite of sealing all the air leaks and adding the hood and the thermostat, I am still not moving enough air through this radiator. The next modification will likely be to open up more holes in the fan shroud. I don't have a link handy, but Ford actually issued a TSB to drill a dozen or more holes in the Dark Horse fan shroud due to reports of that car experiencing high temps on track.. So glad they really tested all that out before selling it to customers for track use, Nice !
Conclusion I can't recommend it. Maybe should have gone the 3 row, Triple Pass option from Fluidyne.
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