I am new to the Track Mustang forum and would love to get opinions on what upgrades I can make for the best possible street setup, but later down the line can be used as a dual purpose for HPDE events.

The Bullitt has the following modifications:
-2019 GT350R dampers (had them replaced last year due to the OEM dampers leaking). I didn't have the VDM calibrated to adjust to the Shelby dampers,
-Ford Performance Lowering Springs (M-5300-W)
-Ford Performance Camber Plates
-BMR Cradle Lockout Kit (CB005)
-BMR Rear Cradle Bushing Kit
-Everything else that the PP1 comes with

I've on my mind adding the following:
-GT350R OEM sway bars
-BMR's 2pt Front Chassis Brace
-replacing the RCA bearings. but I am not sure it worth replacing the bearings with my current goals of street driving.
-Wider wheels. Currently on the PP1 wheels, but am interested in a square setup from SVE or Project6GR's line up

I really wish I had learned about the AJ Hartmans Magneride Kit, because I would've gone down that route last year when it came down to replacing the leaking dampers.

I feel like there are many threads with so many opinions on the right setup, and I am not sure if the modifications I want to add is worth it down the line, or if my current setup is fine as is.

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Bill,

I feel much like you when it comes to making decisions on car modifications. We are on nearly identical mods and setups, and seem to have a similar approach, goal and path. I also have almost your exact same factory spec, except 10r80 transmission - I would have bought a bullit if I had wanted the manual! I also now have the AJ hartman coilover kit and am planning on installing it soon - wish I had found out about it earlier too. Lucky for you, I have a friend who is selling his ground control coilover conversion kit similar to AJ's kit for a good deal. He's on these forums so let me know if you'd like me to connect you with him. I would have sold you my AJ kit if I didn't already invest $250 extra into AJ's adapter for my MM camber plates.

BTW, how much did the M-5300-W springs lower your car front and rear?

Since I know exactly how your car feels, I feel I can speak on it with confidence - here is my advice:
Your current setup is actually already very capable on track, and is an ideal street favored dual purpose setup imo. It is indeed a compromise, but not a bad one. Most important of all, you made the right move with the GT350R dampers. I put on GT500 dampers, which should be the same as yours, and for the same reason you did too. Supposedly these upgraded dampers provide around 200% increased damping force per input from the DSC, that's substantial, especially considering how underdamped the PP1 magride felt. With our dampers and springs, the ride is very compliant on street in normal mode yet performs well at track in sport or track mode. The M-5300-W springs are one of the best rates possible in ford spec spring imo - 240 front and around 850 rear iirc. This still leaves the car with significant bodyroll and slower turn initiation at track though, which is the downside of the compromise. While I was deciding which springs to upgrade to, I was debating between M-5300-W and Steeda Magride dual rate comp springs. The comp springs were higher spring rate, and I was concerned that would negatively affect ride quality for street. Looking back, I wonder how those would have felt. I guess I'll know to some degree once I install 400# front springs with the AJ kit LOL.

I have been tracking on our shared setup for years and across dozens of track days. It is more than adequate, and I would highly reccommend you go out there and track it before making anymore mods. That said, there are some important things to consider depending on your driver skill and style. I am very recently an advanced group driver, mostly because I have upgraded the brakes and tires to greatly improve my pace. Also, I personally am relatively easy on the car, brakes, cooling, and tires - I am a smooth track driver. I do not over aggressively saw at the wheel, make dramatic inputs, or push beyond what the car/brakes/tires tells me it can give. With this context, in my experience, the DS2500/OEM PP1 brembo brake pads are generally adequate for beginner level + low intermediate, as are Michelin 4S or equivalent summer tires. As you progress you will want better brake pads at the very least - I would reccomend ferodo DSUNO or DS1.11 up front and DS2500 or OEM pads in the rear once it's time to replace pads. It took me way too long to move onto this improved brake setup, mostly because I couldn't make a decision on which path to take(GLOC, Carbotech, Pagid, Ferodo, etc). I have been running this brake setup on the street and its much dustier and noisier than the DS2500/OEM but still works great - so its up to you if you want to run a street pad setup and swap to a track pad setup when needed. As for camber settings, I had the car at -2.3 front and -1.7 rear for a long while, and had nearly perfectly even wear on 275/40r19 Conti ECS02 with around 10K street miles and 5+ track days. With wheel rotations, I still have 5/32nd tread remaining. The camber improved track performance, and reduced tire sidewall rollover/wear. Make sure toe is near 0 for good tire wear on street miles.

I would advise you be very careful with the wheel and tire you choose when going wider on a non shelby/mach1 mustang(We have narrower fenders and less clearance) and with your current lowered ride height. With your current PP1 wheels, the car is setup to understeer and truthfully that doesn't feel great. When I first moved onto a square setup, I felt like I had lost all confidence mid corner because the rear was much more eager to step out. However now after some time, I believe a square setup is a huge improvement, and a huge part of getting the car to handle neutral instead of understeer. If you want to go 19x11 with 305 tires square, you will need -3 front camber minimum, extended studs and a 1 inch spacer. As a compromise, I first went with 19x10 SVE SP2 square to replace the PP1 wheels and to avoid all the extra stuff needed for 19x11. The SVE SP2 are flow formed, so the barrel is very strong and the wheel overall is very light - almost as light as fully forged. I ran those wheels on variations of 275/285 Michelin 4S or Conti ECS02 for years and they have been amazing value and performance. It was the perfect compromised, value oriented, easy, plug and play setup, plus extra longevity/value with wheel rotations. I recently moved onto a 19x11 set of square SVE SP2, same wheels just one inch wider, and put on some 305 AD09 200TW track tires. I am experiencing rubbing on the front tires and have to up the camber to -3.0 or more up front(I'm already at -2.8), and center the subframe/kmember to even out the fender/tires clearances. This is probably because I am lowered, I am under -3.0 front camber, AD09 tires are chunky and my front subframe/kmember is a couple mm off to one side. It may have been better to just stick with the 19x10 square setup and put 200TW endurance tires for street and track instead of chasing and spending money to fix a new problem that I created. Many say that the 305 is a must, but I had been enjoying 19x10's with zero issues on street and track. Since you have the same springs and dampers as me, be warned! Many run the extended studs, 1 inch spacers and 19x11 ET50/52 wheels with no issues what so ever though, so YMMV. Truthfully I would suggest buying Apex wheels when on a big sale like black friday, flow formed or fully forged, either would be great, 19x10 or 19x11. SVE wheels are also a great value play, as long as your get the flow formed ones or forged one. However, keep in mind, the SVE wheels have 2mm less fender clearance and 2mm more inner strut clearance than the Apex wheel due to different offset of ET50 vs ET52.

TL;DR - Just run what you have and upgrade as needed. Let me know if you have any other questions or want to know more.

Your very next mod probably should have been one of your first one and that is a set of wider ( square wheels ) and a set of the better 200 TWR tires. Tires alone are the single best mod and are quite often towards the last things done. When drivers go to track or autocross events and notice the guys dominating said it often is due to the rubber they are running. Also check out the wheels available from Apexwheels.com ( site sponsor ) as they are hub centric and track focused from day one. I recommend the forged ones over the less expensive flow formed as they have knurling on the outside rim's edge and this will help sticky tires from rotation under load. Good luck and I am sure you will enjoy TMO!