I am new to the Track Mustang forum and would love to get opinions on what upgrades I can make for the best possible street setup, but later down the line can be used as a dual purpose for HPDE events.

The Bullitt has the following modifications:
-2019 GT350R dampers (had them replaced last year due to the OEM dampers leaking). I didn't have the VDM calibrated to adjust to the Shelby dampers,
-Ford Performance Lowering Springs (M-5300-W)
-Ford Performance Camber Plates
-BMR Cradle Lockout Kit (CB005)
-BMR Rear Cradle Bushing Kit
-Everything else that the PP1 comes with

I've on my mind adding the following:
-GT350R OEM sway bars
-BMR's 2pt Front Chassis Brace
-replacing the RCA bearings. but I am not sure it worth replacing the bearings with my current goals of street driving.
-Wider wheels. Currently on the PP1 wheels, but am interested in a square setup from SVE or Project6GR's line up

I really wish I had learned about the AJ Hartmans Magneride Kit, because I would've gone down that route last year when it came down to replacing the leaking dampers.

I feel like there are many threads with so many opinions on the right setup, and I am not sure if the modifications I want to add is worth it down the line, or if my current setup is fine as is.

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Bill,

I feel much like you when it comes to making decisions on car modifications. We are on nearly identical mods and setups, and seem to have a similar approach, goal and path. I also have almost your exact same factory spec, except 10r80 transmission - I would have bought a bullit if I had wanted the manual! I also now have the AJ hartman coilover kit and am planning on installing it soon - wish I had found out about it earlier too. Lucky for you, I have a friend who is selling his ground control coilover conversion kit similar to AJ's kit for a good deal. He's on these forums so let me know if you'd like me to connect you with him. I would have sold you my AJ kit if I didn't already invest $250 extra into AJ's adapter for my MM camber plates.

BTW, how much did the M-5300-W springs lower your car front and rear?

Since I know exactly how your car feels, I feel I can speak on it with confidence - here is my advice:
Your current setup is actually already very capable on track, and is an ideal street favored dual purpose setup imo. It is indeed a compromise, but not a bad one. Most important of all, you made the right move with the GT350R dampers. I put on GT500 dampers, which should be the same as yours, and for the same reason you did too. Supposedly these upgraded dampers provide around 200% increased damping force per input from the DSC, that's substantial, especially considering how underdamped the PP1 magride felt. With our dampers and springs, the ride is very compliant on street in normal mode yet performs well at track in sport or track mode. The M-5300-W springs are one of the best rates possible in ford spec spring imo - 240 front and around 850 rear iirc. This still leaves the car with significant bodyroll and slower turn initiation at track though, which is the downside of the compromise. While I was deciding which springs to upgrade to, I was debating between M-5300-W and Steeda Magride dual rate comp springs. The comp springs were higher spring rate, and I was concerned that would negatively affect ride quality for street. Looking back, I wonder how those would have felt. I guess I'll know to some degree once I install 400# front springs with the AJ kit LOL.

I have been tracking on our shared setup for years and across dozens of track days. It is more than adequate, and I would highly reccommend you go out there and track it before making anymore mods. That said, there are some important things to consider depending on your driver skill and style. I am very recently an advanced group driver, mostly because I have upgraded the brakes and tires to greatly improve my pace. Also, I personally am relatively easy on the car, brakes, cooling, and tires - I am a smooth track driver. I do not over aggressively saw at the wheel, make dramatic inputs, or push beyond what the car/brakes/tires tells me it can give. With this context, in my experience, the DS2500/OEM PP1 brembo brake pads are generally adequate for beginner level + low intermediate, as are Michelin 4S or equivalent summer tires. As you progress you will want better brake pads at the very least - I would reccomend ferodo DSUNO or DS1.11 up front and DS2500 or OEM pads in the rear once it's time to replace pads. It took me way too long to move onto this improved brake setup, mostly because I couldn't make a decision on which path to take(GLOC, Carbotech, Pagid, Ferodo, etc). I have been running this brake setup on the street and its much dustier and noisier than the DS2500/OEM but still works great - so its up to you if you want to run a street pad setup and swap to a track pad setup when needed. As for camber settings, I had the car at -2.3 front and -1.7 rear for a long while, and had nearly perfectly even wear on 275/40r19 Conti ECS02 with around 10K street miles and 5+ track days. With wheel rotations, I still have 5/32nd tread remaining. The camber improved track performance, and reduced tire sidewall rollover/wear. Make sure toe is near 0 for good tire wear on street miles.

I would advise you be very careful with the wheel and tire you choose when going wider on a non shelby/mach1 mustang(We have narrower fenders and less clearance) and with your current lowered ride height. With your current PP1 wheels, the car is setup to understeer and truthfully that doesn't feel great. When I first moved onto a square setup, I felt like I had lost all confidence mid corner because the rear was much more eager to step out. However now after some time, I believe a square setup is a huge improvement, and a huge part of getting the car to handle neutral instead of understeer. If you want to go 19x11 with 305 tires square, you will need -3 front camber minimum, extended studs and a 1 inch spacer. As a compromise, I first went with 19x10 SVE SP2 square to replace the PP1 wheels and to avoid all the extra stuff needed for 19x11. The SVE SP2 are flow formed, so the barrel is very strong and the wheel overall is very light - almost as light as fully forged. I ran those wheels on variations of 275/285 Michelin 4S or Conti ECS02 for years and they have been amazing value and performance. It was the perfect compromised, value oriented, easy, plug and play setup, plus extra longevity/value with wheel rotations. I recently moved onto a 19x11 set of square SVE SP2, same wheels just one inch wider, and put on some 305 AD09 200TW track tires. I am experiencing rubbing on the front tires and have to up the camber to -3.0 or more up front(I'm already at -2.8), and center the subframe/kmember to even out the fender/tires clearances. This is probably because I am lowered, I am under -3.0 front camber, AD09 tires are chunky and my front subframe/kmember is a couple mm off to one side. It may have been better to just stick with the 19x10 square setup and put 200TW endurance tires for street and track instead of chasing and spending money to fix a new problem that I created. Many say that the 305 is a must, but I had been enjoying 19x10's with zero issues on street and track. Since you have the same springs and dampers as me, be warned! Many run the extended studs, 1 inch spacers and 19x11 ET50/52 wheels with no issues what so ever though, so YMMV. Truthfully I would suggest buying Apex wheels when on a big sale like black friday, flow formed or fully forged, either would be great, 19x10 or 19x11. SVE wheels are also a great value play, as long as your get the flow formed ones or forged one. However, keep in mind, the SVE wheels have 2mm less fender clearance and 2mm more inner strut clearance than the Apex wheel due to different offset of ET50 vs ET52.

TL;DR - Just run what you have and upgrade as needed. Let me know if you have any other questions or want to know more.

Your very next mod probably should have been one of your first one and that is a set of wider ( square wheels ) and a set of the better 200 TWR tires. Tires alone are the single best mod and are quite often towards the last things done. When drivers go to track or autocross events and notice the guys dominating said it often is due to the rubber they are running. Also check out the wheels available from Apexwheels.com ( site sponsor ) as they are hub centric and track focused from day one. I recommend the forged ones over the less expensive flow formed as they have knurling on the outside rim's edge and this will help sticky tires from rotation under load. Good luck and I am sure you will enjoy TMO!

Rodpwnz said:

Hi Bill,

I feel much like you when it comes to making decisions on car modifications. We are on nearly identical mods and setups, and seem to have a similar approach, goal and path. I also have almost your exact same factory spec, except 10r80 transmission - I would have bought a bullit if I had wanted the manual! I also now have the AJ hartman coilover kit and am planning on installing it soon - wish I had found out about it earlier too. Lucky for you, I have a friend who is selling his ground control coilover conversion kit similar to AJ's kit for a good deal. He's on these forums so let me know if you'd like me to connect you with him. I would have sold you my AJ kit if I didn't already invest $250 extra into AJ's adapter for my MM camber plates.

BTW, how much did the M-5300-W springs lower your car front and rear?

Since I know exactly how your car feels, I feel I can speak on it with confidence - here is my advice:
Your current setup is actually already very capable on track, and is an ideal street favored dual purpose setup imo. It is indeed a compromise, but not a bad one. Most important of all, you made the right move with the GT350R dampers. I put on GT500 dampers, which should be the same as yours, and for the same reason you did too. Supposedly these upgraded dampers provide around 200% increased damping force per input from the DSC, that's substantial, especially considering how underdamped the PP1 magride felt. With our dampers and springs, the ride is very compliant on street in normal mode yet performs well at track in sport or track mode. The M-5300-W springs are one of the best rates possible in ford spec spring imo - 240 front and around 850 rear iirc. This still leaves the car with significant bodyroll and slower turn initiation at track though, which is the downside of the compromise. While I was deciding which springs to upgrade to, I was debating between M-5300-W and Steeda Magride dual rate comp springs. The comp springs were higher spring rate, and I was concerned that would negatively affect ride quality for street. Looking back, I wonder how those would have felt. I guess I'll know to some degree once I install 400# front springs with the AJ kit LOL.

I have been tracking on our shared setup for years and across dozens of track days. It is more than adequate, and I would highly reccommend you go out there and track it before making anymore mods. That said, there are some important things to consider depending on your driver skill and style. I am very recently an advanced group driver, mostly because I have upgraded the brakes and tires to greatly improve my pace. Also, I personally am relatively easy on the car, brakes, cooling, and tires - I am a smooth track driver. I do not over aggressively saw at the wheel, make dramatic inputs, or push beyond what the car/brakes/tires tells me it can give. With this context, in my experience, the DS2500/OEM PP1 brembo brake pads are generally adequate for beginner level + low intermediate, as are Michelin 4S or equivalent summer tires. As you progress you will want better brake pads at the very least - I would reccomend ferodo DSUNO or DS1.11 up front and DS2500 or OEM pads in the rear once it's time to replace pads. It took me way too long to move onto this improved brake setup, mostly because I couldn't make a decision on which path to take(GLOC, Carbotech, Pagid, Ferodo, etc). I have been running this brake setup on the street and its much dustier and noisier than the DS2500/OEM but still works great - so its up to you if you want to run a street pad setup and swap to a track pad setup when needed. As for camber settings, I had the car at -2.3 front and -1.7 rear for a long while, and had nearly perfectly even wear on 275/40r19 Conti ECS02 with around 10K street miles and 5+ track days. With wheel rotations, I still have 5/32nd tread remaining. The camber improved track performance, and reduced tire sidewall rollover/wear. Make sure toe is near 0 for good tire wear on street miles.

I would advise you be very careful with the wheel and tire you choose when going wider on a non shelby/mach1 mustang(We have narrower fenders and less clearance) and with your current lowered ride height. With your current PP1 wheels, the car is setup to understeer and truthfully that doesn't feel great. When I first moved onto a square setup, I felt like I had lost all confidence mid corner because the rear was much more eager to step out. However now after some time, I believe a square setup is a huge improvement, and a huge part of getting the car to handle neutral instead of understeer. If you want to go 19x11 with 305 tires square, you will need -3 front camber minimum, extended studs and a 1 inch spacer. As a compromise, I first went with 19x10 SVE SP2 square to replace the PP1 wheels and to avoid all the extra stuff needed for 19x11. The SVE SP2 are flow formed, so the barrel is very strong and the wheel overall is very light - almost as light as fully forged. I ran those wheels on variations of 275/285 Michelin 4S or Conti ECS02 for years and they have been amazing value and performance. It was the perfect compromised, value oriented, easy, plug and play setup, plus extra longevity/value with wheel rotations. I recently moved onto a 19x11 set of square SVE SP2, same wheels just one inch wider, and put on some 305 AD09 200TW track tires. I am experiencing rubbing on the front tires and have to up the camber to -3.0 or more up front(I'm already at -2.8), and center the subframe/kmember to even out the fender/tires clearances. This is probably because I am lowered, I am under -3.0 front camber, AD09 tires are chunky and my front subframe/kmember is a couple mm off to one side. It may have been better to just stick with the 19x10 square setup and put 200TW endurance tires for street and track instead of chasing and spending money to fix a new problem that I created. Many say that the 305 is a must, but I had been enjoying 19x10's with zero issues on street and track. Since you have the same springs and dampers as me, be warned! Many run the extended studs, 1 inch spacers and 19x11 ET50/52 wheels with no issues what so ever though, so YMMV. Truthfully I would suggest buying Apex wheels when on a big sale like black friday, flow formed or fully forged, either would be great, 19x10 or 19x11. SVE wheels are also a great value play, as long as your get the flow formed ones or forged one. However, keep in mind, the SVE wheels have 2mm less fender clearance and 2mm more inner strut clearance than the Apex wheel due to different offset of ET50 vs ET52.

TL;DR - Just run what you have and upgrade as needed. Let me know if you have any other questions or want to know more.

Click to expand...

Hello! Thank you for the feedback!

Honestly there is a lot I wished I had done differently for the suspension, knowing now the Magneride works on the different S550 models.

In retrospect I wish I had gone with the stock OEM Magneride dampers that came with the Bullitt, instead of the GT350R ones. Since completing the installation I've been paranoid that the suspension isn't working to it's fullest potential because it doesn't have the 350/R VDM. So I am hoping that regardless of the mismatched dampers, they're still operating with the PP1 calibration. Did you have any issues when you went ahead with the GT500 dampers? I read your thread on the 6G forums, and that put me at ease with my suspension choices, albeit it still in the back of my mind. It's funny but your post on trying to confirm the correct part numbers for the struts/shocks was exactly me last year haha. Ride quality was an improvement over the stock dampers. Definitely much more stiffer, but I will say the rear end still has a somewhat floating, up and down feeling when hitting any irregularities on the road in normal mode. Sport mode lessens those effects, but that bouncy feeling in the rear is still there when hitting bumps. I reached out to AJ Hartman and he recommended adding RLCA bearings, and vertical links to lessen that rear end feeling. I am not sure if that would be overkill for a dual setup. I've noticed on a lot of the build threads, not that many people have them. Once the current dampers eventually leak again, I am definitely going to pursue the AJ Hartman kit. He recommended a 325F/1000R spring rate for a dual purpose car, leaning more towards a daily for the moment. So I'll be interested in hearing your opinions on your experience with them!


I've been thinking of ordering the M-5300-M kit just for the VDM flash model and sway bars. At the same time I am wondering if it would be useless. My logic is that the VDM flash is for the PP1 models that have the underdamped struts and shocks, so the re-flash will aid them with the stiffer spring rates of the M-5300-W. But since I've the GT350R dampers, those are already made to work with the heavier spring rates of the M-5300-W, so the flash wouldn't be necessary? What are your thoughts.

Unfortunately I did not take before and after measurements of the drop before and after the lowering springs. I can upload a pic of what it loos like now. But I would say it was 1/2" to 3/4" drop. I am leaning more towards 3/4" because the gap in the wheel well on the stock springs was huge, that from a looks point of view it just looked bad.

I am working on wheels at the moment, leaning more towards a 19X11 setup. Really wish there was some manufacturer that made wheels that looked like classic torq thrust wheels to keep the Bullitt look. I'll have to upgrade the Ford Performance Camber Plates (another mistake, was installed at the same time with the 350R dampers and FP springs) to the Vorshlag ones.

Rodpwnz said:

I recently moved onto a 19x11 set of square SVE SP2, same wheels just one inch wider, and put on some 305 AD09 200TW track tires. I am experiencing rubbing on the front tires and have to up the camber to -3.0 or more up front(I'm already at -2.8), and center the subframe/kmember to even out the fender/tires clearances. This is probably because I am lowered, I am under -3.0 front camber, AD09 tires are chunky and my front subframe/kmember is a couple mm off to one side.

Click to expand...

That one side is it the Right one ? I'm having a similar issue where I need -3.28 camber on the Right when I only need -3.1 on the Lef side to put 295/35/19 A052 infront. I honestly think 305 Yoko will be too wide for a PP1 Mustang as they are more like a 315 wide.
Also do yourself a favor and switch to A052s.

AirBiscuit said:

Hello! Thank you for the feedback!

Honestly there is a lot I wished I had done differently for the suspension, knowing now the Magneride works on the different S550 models.

In retrospect I wish I had gone with the stock OEM Magneride dampers that came with the Bullitt, instead of the GT350R ones. Since completing the installation I've been paranoid that the suspension isn't working to it's fullest potential because it doesn't have the 350/R VDM. So I am hoping that regardless of the mismatched dampers, they're still operating with the PP1 calibration. Did you have any issues when you went ahead with the GT500 dampers? I read your thread on the 6G forums, and that put me at ease with my suspension choices, albeit it still in the back of my mind. It's funny but your post on trying to confirm the correct part numbers for the struts/shocks was exactly me last year haha. Ride quality was an improvement over the stock dampers. Definitely much more stiffer, but I will say the rear end still has a somewhat floating, up and down feeling when hitting any irregularities on the road in normal mode. Sport mode lessens those effects, but that bouncy feeling in the rear is still there when hitting bumps. I reached out to AJ Hartman and he recommended adding RLCA bearings, and vertical links to lessen that rear end feeling. I am not sure if that would be overkill for a dual setup. I've noticed on a lot of the build threads, not that many people have them. Once the current dampers eventually leak again, I am definitely going to pursue the AJ Hartman kit. He recommended a 325F/1000R spring rate for a dual purpose car, leaning more towards a daily for the moment. So I'll be interested in hearing your opinions on your experience with them!


I've been thinking of ordering the M-5300-M kit just for the VDM flash model and sway bars. At the same time I am wondering if it would be useless. My logic is that the VDM flash is for the PP1 models that have the underdamped struts and shocks, so the re-flash will aid them with the stiffer spring rates of the M-5300-W. But since I've the GT350R dampers, those are already made to work with the heavier spring rates of the M-5300-W, so the flash wouldn't be necessary? What are your thoughts.

Unfortunately I did not take before and after measurements of the drop before and after the lowering springs. I can upload a pic of what it loos like now. But I would say it was 1/2" to 3/4" drop. I am leaning more towards 3/4" because the gap in the wheel well on the stock springs was huge, that from a looks point of view it just looked bad.

I am working on wheels at the moment, leaning more towards a 19X11 setup. Really wish there was some manufacturer that made wheels that looked like classic torq thrust wheels to keep the Bullitt look. I'll have to upgrade the Ford Performance Camber Plates (another mistake, was installed at the same time with the 350R dampers and FP springs) to the Vorshlag ones.

Click to expand...

I am really enjoying the GT500/350R dampers, I think damping wise they are mostly the same in normal mode in the street but in sport and track mode the difference can be more noticable. It's hard for me to truly quantify how much of the difference dampers made because I swapped to M-5300-W springs at the same time, but with canyon roads or track driving, the difference was noticable. I do not have a VDM flash, but could always buy a steeda DSC or original DSC unit. The beauty of either DSC is that you can easily swap between those and OEM VDM - takes 10 minutes in the trunk after the first time you learn, and/or you could sell them at a small loss worst case. I need to do more driving and testing on track with other mods before I give a DSC a try.

I would suggest everyone swap to the GT500/GT350R dampers once their factory magride dampers fail, especially considering they cost almost the same.

Actually, I'm tagging a suspension expert @TeeLew to maybe share his thoughts.

bnight said:

That one side is it the Right one ? I'm having a similar issue where I need -3.28 camber on the Right when I only need -3.1 on the Lef side to put 295/35/19 A052 infront. I honestly think 305 Yoko will be too wide for a PP1 Mustang as they are more like a 315 wide.
Also do yourself a favor and switch to A052s.

Click to expand...

My driver side wheel sticks out about 4-5mm, my mustang specialist put the car on a lift and measured the front subframe/Kmember tolerances side to side and confirmed the misalignment. He said we would have to prop up the k member, loosen all the bolts for it, realign it properly and then torque everything back down.

Unfortunately, I already bought the AD09 set and yeah they are wide ASF. I'll probably try to get -3.5 front camber if possible to fit the AD09 but dial camber back to -3.0 or something when I throw on a new set of V730 I have waiting in the garage. I will have to cut open my strut tower holes and modify my MM camber plates to allow more camber adjustment.

It also doesn't help that with the FP 5300 springs I have, the front is lowered nearly an inch. I think once I install the AJ hartman kit, and lift the front up a bit, the tires will be able to tuck in more during compression without hitting the fender.

Rodpwnz said:

Unfortunately, I already bought the AD09 set and yeah they are wide ASF. I'll probably try to get -3.5 front camber if possible to fit the AD09 but dial camber back to -3.0 or something when I throw on a new set of V730 I have waiting in the garage. I will have to cut open my strut tower holes and modify my MM camber plates to allow more camber adjustment.

It also doesn't help that with the FP 5300 springs I have, the front is lowered nearly an inch. I think once I install the AJ hartman kit, and lift the front up a bit, the tires will be able to tuck in more during compression without hitting the fender.

Click to expand...

Raising the front will give you less static camber than if it's lowered. I'm not sure with that much camber you will have the inner side clearance needed to tuck such a big tire. But worth the shot.

bnight said:

Raising the front will give you less static camber than if it's lowered. I'm not sure with that much camber you will have the inner side clearance needed to tuck such a big tire. But worth the shot.

Click to expand...

True - I also have 19x11 ET50 wheels, which are 2mm less outside fender clearance than 19x11 ET52 apex wheels. When we’re pushing this much tire, every mm counts.

If it comes to it, I’m considering having a machine shop put my 25mm spacers on a lathe and trim them down 2-4mm or to just order some custom spacers at 21mm or 22mm.

AirBiscuit said:

Hello! Thank you for the feedback!

Honestly there is a lot I wished I had done differently for the suspension, knowing now the Magneride works on the different S550 models.

In retrospect I wish I had gone with the stock OEM Magneride dampers that came with the Bullitt, instead of the GT350R ones. Since completing the installation I've been paranoid that the suspension isn't working to it's fullest potential because it doesn't have the 350/R VDM. So I am hoping that regardless of the mismatched dampers, they're still operating with the PP1 calibration. Did you have any issues when you went ahead with the GT500 dampers?

Click to expand...

You've got the best combo you're likely to get with the Mag suspension/dampers. It's not a 'mismatch'. It's just not what they delivered the car on. You're looking for a magic bullet. There are none.

It breaks down like this:

GT Magneride dampers/PP1 VDM: Low force dampers & higher force VDM settings (very underdamped)
GT350R-500-M1 dampers (all the same) / GT350R-500-M1 VDM: High force dampers & lower force VDM settings (somewhat underdamped)
GT350R-500-M1 dampers / PP1 VDM: Higher force dampers & higher force VDM settings (reasonable damping)

If you flash your VDM with the Shelby calibration, you're going to take a bunch of damping OUT of the car.

TeeLew said:

You've got the best combo you're likely to get with the Mag suspension/dampers. It's not a 'mismatch'. It's just not what they delivered the car on. You're looking for a magic bullet. There are none.

It breaks down like this:

GT Magneride dampers/PP1 VDM: Low force dampers & higher force VDM settings (very underdamped)
GT350R-500-M1 dampers (all the same) / GT350R-500-M1 VDM: High force dampers & lower force VDM settings (somewhat underdamped)
GT350R-500-M1 dampers / PP1 VDM: Higher force dampers & higher force VDM settings (reasonable damping)

If you flash your VDM with the Shelby calibration, you're going to take a bunch of damping OUT of the car.

Click to expand...

Thank you! This issue has been driving me crazy, that your response has put me at ease. Also saves me from spending money on the FP Kit. Now I am just going to go ahead and purchase either the BMR or FP sway bar kit. Leaning more towards BMR since the FP bars have a long lead time.

For a Mustangs that’s only going to see track duty twice a year, do you still recommend installing the RCLA and FLCA bearings? I was going to upgrade the sway bar end links from AJ Hartmans shop, and I noticed he also fabricates both bearings.

For me, replacing the RLCA bush makes the car predictable, stable and more enjoyable to hustle around. I think this is well worth the effort. The FLCA gives better steering response, precision and camber control. The front is a performance thing, but it doesn't make the car any more 'fun' to drive. I think the rear is more beneficial & I'm a little agnostic on the front. If you care about lap time, yes. If you don't care about lap time (HPDE), it's less of a gain.

While you're doing the RLCA, do the rear toe-link as well. It won't necessarily make the car faster, but it feels better to not have the camber *or* toe wiggling around on you as it goes through the corner. I don't think either bearing is meaningful in terms of NVH.

The stock Ford anti-roll bar links are known to fail with stiffer anti-roll bars, so it's not a bad idea to get or fab up a better set. If they're adjustable, then it will allow you to zero out the preload in the anti-roll bars with driver weight in the car and setup fuel as well, which is a nice touch.

AirBiscuit said:

Thank you! This issue has been driving me crazy, that your response has put me at ease. Also saves me from spending money on the FP Kit. Now I am just going to go ahead and purchase either the BMR or FP sway bar kit. Leaning more towards BMR since the FP bars have a long lead time.

For a Mustangs that’s only going to see track duty twice a year, do you still recommend installing the RCLA and FLCA bearings? I was going to upgrade the sway bar end links from AJ Hartmans shop, and I noticed he also fabricates both bearings.

Click to expand...

Do yourself a favor and buy the Steeda Competition unit it has the highest rates of anything in the market. Pair it with an OEM PP1 rear bar installing it on the second hole from full soft.

While you're doing the RLCA, do the rear toe-link as well. It won't necessarily make the car faster, but it feels better to not have the camber *or* toe wiggling around on you as it goes through the corner. I don't think either bearing is meaningful in terms of NVH.

Click to expand...

FP knuckle-to-toe-link bearings a must as well.