krisk said:

I would have no concerns running the R16/R12 combo on the street from a functionality standpoint. That is what I run for track use, and I take my car on the street when getting work done. The G-Loc track only brakes work perfectly fine on the street with my 6 piston fronts/ 4 piston rears and have a whole lot better braking than any of my other "street" vehicles.

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EricH said:

Yes - used 3M 120-grit sandpaper by hand to refresh existing rotors before pad install

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Junkyard Dog said:

800° v. 1000°

R18 is 2100°

I am a novice, so my Akebono OEM Dark Horse pads were fine. Maybe I am only putting 73° into the pads with my slow, novice driving. I need more seat time before I even worry about pads.

And just for context - I know nothing at all. I am just repeating what it says on the manufacturer's web site. I have never used Gloc pads.

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EricH said:

Yes - used 3M 120-grit sandpaper by hand to refresh existing rotors before pad install

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Junkyard Dog said:

Can you elaborate a little on how you do this? Just go to the hardware store, buy 120 grit, fold it, hold it, and proceed to start scrubbing on the rotor until it looks all smooth?

Did you take the rotor off to do it?

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• amazon purchase - 3M Pro Grade No-Slip Grip Sandpaper, 3-Pack, 120-Grit
• I did not take off the rotors, just removed wheels, then sanded with medium-hand-pressure in one direction at an angle and went around the whole rotor, then sanded at angle in the opposite direction around the whole rotor, then cleaned up rotor with Gunk Brake Cleaner and microfiber towel. Then did same process for other side of the rotor, and other wheels.

Junkyard Dog said:

I wish Ferodo would hurry up and make S650 pads. I have read that their street friendly and track pads can be swapped with no issues. I have not read that about any other manufacturer's pad. E.g., with the GLoc, apparently it is no issue to swap from street to track pad, but you have an issue if you go the other way without preparing the rotor (sanding).

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EricH said:

this was my first brake pad change so I don't claim to be an expert on this by any means but here's what I did before installing the brake pads-

• amazon purchase - 3M Pro Grade No-Slip Grip Sandpaper, 3-Pack, 120-Grit
• I did not take off the rotors, just removed wheels, then sanded with medium-hand-pressure in one direction at an angle and went around the whole rotor, then sanded at angle in the opposite direction around the whole rotor, then cleaned up rotor with Gunk Brake Cleaner and microfiber towel. Then did same process for other side of the rotor, and other wheels.

I did not spend a ton of time on this - roughly 5 minutes per rotor. I also didn't feel like I was removing a lot from the rotor, moreso just felt like I was cleaning up the surface layer a bit if that makes sense.

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Junkyard Dog said:

Can you elaborate a little on how you do this? Just go to the hardware store, buy 120 grit, fold it, hold it, and proceed to start scrubbing on the rotor until it looks all smooth?

Did you take the rotor off to do it?

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Rodpwnz said:

I'm now running DSUNO front and DS2500 rear, but haven't hit the track yet. On the street the DSUNO screams like a banshee, especially as lower speeds and lighter brake modulation. And dusts much more than OEM or DS2500 did.

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bnight said:

That's because you never driven a Gloc pads if you think DSUNO screams wait till you hear GLoc.

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Gunslinger55 said:

*Update on Gloc pads*
I put about 270 miles on it upand down the mountain today. Fronts were making a racket including when not using brakes. Then i felt pads rattling and clunking in caliper. I knew something wasn’t right so I inspected and sure enough the anti rattle /locating spring plates came loose and were dragging on the wheel. One side popped out from behind pin both sides. I put them on again then one popped out again. Then i got it in just right and they seems to be staying put.

Long story short a case of super finicky fitment and operator error putting the plates back in. Pads work fine without plates but the plates definitely keep the clunking down. The terrible squeal/moan/screetch was the clips dragging on the barrel of wheel. Now that i got them to stay in they are quiet and work Great. Just a little squeal as you come to a stop so far.

That was interesting, moral of story be very careful to get spring plate located properly on pins. Seems very finicky

In any case i’m gonna say R16/12 just dandy. Hardly any noise now and grabs like a mother

Didn’t have this issue on my PP1 brembos so not sure if these are a little less forgiving or maybe a slight design difference or i’m stupid lol (Dark horse)

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krisk said:

I had the same issue with the noise and loose brake hardware the first time I replaced the pads. It was installer (me) error. I’ve since replaced the brakes 5 times and never had an issue. It’s easy to think you installed it correctly only to find out the hardware has come loose. When you do it correctly there won’t be any noise other than possibly pad squeal when braking and everything stays tight and in place. My R16/R12 setup doesn’t make much noise at all even when cold. I also keep replacement hardware on hand and use new parts every time I change the pads.

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Gunslinger55 said:

I’ll get new hardware next time i reused the old stuff as it was basically new 2000 miles but if the clip flies off good to have spares

Yeah no noise and cleaned all the streaks and scorching from the old pads on rotor so not sure sanding is really necessary

Glad i’m not the only one and i’m pretty mechanical but i think there is a top and bottom and it’s very minuscule length difference so i would mark them with a sharpie before removing them next time as with naked eye it’s very hard to tell

View attachment 111825

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krisk said:

Is this before or after you fixed it? The reason I ask is the top of your clip is not seated correctly in the picture. It will pop loose the way it is installed in the picture. The top of the clip must wrap fully under the pin while centered in the smaller diameter section of the pin.

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