Who can do that? Is there a way to make it super aggressive and shift ONLY when you pull the paddles (nothing automatic).Second, less conventional solution: Talk to your tuner. Yes, tuner. Now I haven't been doing tuning for ages, and that was with the ancient 4R70W, but the same stuff applies. Look at the lock-up strategy/tables or however they're programmed now. Lock it up as soon or as much as possible. Heat mainly comes from the converter and the more you lock it, the more direct power you put down and the less you shear/work the fluid in the converter. Less of that equals less heat generated and energy wasted.
A tuner can make it shift firmer. I'm not sure about the 10R80 but the SCT X4 tuner provides options for the 6R80 to let you adjust the shift pressure and mph.Who can do that? Is there a way to make it super aggressive and shift ONLY when you pull the paddles (nothing automatic).
WOW!!! Thanks for this post!!!! Ordered the AN8 nuts and male male adapters. 37deg flare right?View attachment 9045
So here’s what I have done up to this point and it seems to be working very well!
I used Derale 40 row stacked coolers. One for the trans and the other for the oil. I used a setrab oil filter sandwich plate with a 180* thermostat. I liked this plate as it would bleed a bit before the therm opened up to warm the oil in the cooler rather than cooler oil shocking the system. Both of these coolers hold a quart of fluid which to me is helpful. Any increase in capacity will help with temps. I used -10 AN fittings and lines on the oil side. Lots of people said I should have went -12 but the coolers and sandwich plates use -10’o ring ports so that seemed to be the bottle neck in the system so I made the decision I did based off of that. On the trans side I used -8 as the hard line on the factory cooler is half inch. I spliced into the hardline with AN tube nuts and sleeves after flaring the hard line with a AN glaring tool. Then I used the -8 male/male unions which allowed me to hook in the AN lines and hose ends I put together.
I mounted the cooler setup to the crash bar much like an intercooler would.
I knew I would need more air flow to the coolers so I chose a cervinis c series grill delete setup. This opens up the lower grill a lot and I feel it helps. I am worried about lift and an looking into hood vents but the jury is out this far.
I wanted a slick brake cooling setup but no one makes anything for the 18+ bumper as far as inlets go that I think looks good as no one makes a commercially available magnaride backing plate for these spindles so I decided to make something up. I had a buddy 3d print me an inlet. I originally wanted the entire area to be a scupper but I git only half the inlet. So them to block off the open area as to not get air into the fender well area. I used kydex to accomplish this task and get a plastic of similar color and texture as the factory plastics.
The entire set up is working very well. Last weekend at the Mustang Club of America event at Heartland Motorsports Park in Topeka Kansas we had ambient air temps between 97-101 degrees. The trans temps during 20 minute sessions would hold steady at 210-215! To me this is great. Before in the middle of a session it would creep up to 240 and at 230 it starts delaying shifts etc. I don’t have to have a mandatory cool down lap or two in the middle of sessions any more.
I don’t have an oil temp gauge so I can’t say much about that but my coolant temps run straight up so I think not having the factory tranny cooler wedged between the condenser and radiator helps not heat soak the upper radiator and not running coolant through the oil filter housing has to release some taxing heat soak on the coolant side as well.
This is my findings up to this point. Any critiques and criticisms are welcomed!