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S197 2011 Mustang V6 Performance Pack: Building the wrong car for D Street Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

blacksheep-1

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Maybe so, it depends on how thoroughly they tech. IMO, it's the other competitors that do most of the teching, there are such a myriad of cars that are allowed to run, that the organization can't possibly be on top of every little nuance of every model and sub model, the competitors call out the cheaters, and then the SCCA looks it over. I think again, IMO, that's why certain areas get away with things, all the competitors are getting away with what's called a "cheater's handshake" , then when they run a national event, they get nailed.
It's not just the SCCA either....local short tracks have a claim rule, $750 and you get the winner's engine in the econo-mod class. The thing is, everyone is sort of interpreting the rules kind of liberally, so when you get claimed, the claimer has to give you his engine, which is as illegal as yours is, so no one ever gets claimed.
 

drj2k1

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Wow, didn't expect to see so many responses in here. Very grateful for the knowledgeable input about resolving the rear ride/wheelspin issue. Got some time to work on the car last weekend and dialed the shocks back to a quarter turn off full soft in addition to adjusting the Strano bar to the softest setting. Happy to report that most of the "nervousness" has been dialed out of the rear end over rough roads. Played around with the car on some back roads and the car felt much better, can't wait to get the freshened up parts on the front end and see how the car responds.

Finally got some pictures of the front bumpstops from RE suspension as I hope that these will play a significant role in tuning the setup for D street (as they did last year in my H street civic). For those not familiar with SCCA street rules you can ONLY change one swaybar, shocks/struts, cat back exhaust, drop-in filter, bump stops (must be stock height), brake pads, maximized factory camber adjustment and whatever size tire you can stuff onto factory width wheels (+/- 7mm offset). As seen on Miatas (E street), the soft spring rates of most factory cars means that they spend a lot of time on the bump stops in an autocross setting. By tuning the bump stops, there is some advantage to be gained in affecting the overall spring rate of the car which can positively influence the handling dynamics.

Quick recap: I sent RE suspension a front factory bump stop as well as a front Ford Performance bump stop (from the jounce kit). Surprisingly, on their dyno they were essentially identical in rate. They went through their inventory and set me up with a bump stop identical to the factory height but with a quicker ramp up rate as well as stiffer overall rate. My theory behind using these in the front is to help mitigate brake dive with the stock springs and hopefully help control the Mac Struts camber curve in the front end. AFAIK the V6 PP got the same front springs as the 2011 GT ~122lb/in (the rear part #'s are identical ~154lb/in), but I've read that they may have been a shorter or different front spring due to the lighter V6 (any insight on this would be greatly appreciated). Below I've got some pictures of the front brake dive from the end of last season (with 17's and short leftover tires from the Civic would literally scrape the air dam under hard braking, the dyno chart from RE, and a line up of the bump stops.
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If anyone needs any bump stop tuning done, Donny at RE suspension is amazing. I don't think we would've been half as successful as we were last year on the SCCA tour without the bump stop tuning, we beat many cars on MCS shocks/custom valved Koni's using RE bumpstops in conjunction with OTS Koni's.
 
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drj2k1

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Minor update as I procrastinate grading papers this morning:

Preventative maintenance being done on the car over the past couple week. Cooling system refreshed with factory parts and threw in some new plugs, nothing exciting. Ordered up some BG trans fluid from OP Mustang to throw in the tranny as I've read good things on here. Still debating pulling the trak-lok diff for a rebuild, really waiting to see what the season schedule is going to look like (the earliest confirmed autocross dates are in September...).

Front Koni's have been assembled with factory springs, RE bumpstops, and ford top hats; just waiting to get an alignment date. Anyone have any experience slotting front strut bolt holes per the FSM?

Not sure the best way to go about it, but if the rulebook allows it to get more negative camber then we are doing it!
 

Mad Hatter

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FSM?? Slotting for more camber? Really don't feel comfortable with slotting the front struts, but camber bolts work fine without getting the rat tail file out. I have MMS camber plates which get me to -2.5 camber and upper and lower BMR camber bolts get me all the way to -4.5.

If thats not what you are talking about.....Please ignore me!!
 

Grant 302

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I assume ‘Factory Service Manual’ but Factory Stock might be for the class rules.

I’d be surprised if this is allowed.

But if it is, I’d use a diamond bit like used on misc rotary tools like Dremel. Increase the width of the hole inboard as much as you are allowed per class rules.
 

drj2k1

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Thanks for the insight on strut slotting, I think I misspoke as the more appropriate term might be enlarging the lower strut mounting hole. This isn't something that I've dabbled in before but Ford offers autocrossers some "support" by writing some language/procedure into the Factory Service Manual. Usually these provisions are created by the factory to help cars which were in accidents back into alignment spec, but in the SCCA Solo rules this is used to maximize alignment specs.

SCCA Solo rulebook language: "If offered by the manufacturer for a particular model and year, the use of shims, special bolts, removal of material to enlarge mounting holes, and similar methods are allowed and the resulting alignment settings are permitted even if outside the normal specification or range of specifications recommended by the manufacturer. If enlarging mounting holes is specifically authorized but no material removal limits are specified, material removal is restricted to the amount necessary to achieve the maximum factory alignment specification."

Service Manual for enlarging lower strut hole: http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=726&f=Camber Adjustment - Front.pdf&p=2

Ford also offers these "Crash Bolts" that make it easier to get max alignment specs (although at 140 bucks I'm sure traditional camber bolts would be cheaper if they were allowed): https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-lower-control-arm-adjust-bolt-4r3z3b236ab

I'll be using both the strut hole enlargement and the factory camber bolts above to maximize negative camber and hopefully help with tire wear. Unfortunately the koni's don't have the etching for the enlargement like the factory struts, so I'll have to make a template and have the extra careful. Just wanted to see what tools others have used for this type of work

Thanks again for the insight,
-J
 

drj2k1

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Things are still moving forward very slowly here in NY, so no racing updates just a little more maintenance/autox prep.

This weekend flushed the tranny and filled with BG Syncroshift II from OP Mustang, trans definitely felt smoother after a couple miles. Not that we had any trans issues, but I'll have to wait until winter to see if it helps with the cold weather stubbornness of the MT-82.
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Finally got the Bridgestone RE71R's mounted up to the Enkei's and test fit them on the car. 265s on an 18x8.5, but drastically lighter than the factory 19's. They certainly feel the wheel well up more than the stock setup, but nothing like most of y'all are running on here with 18x11's. Alignment tentatively scheduled for the 27th, praying for some racing action in July.
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Not too much going on, but I guess some progress is good progress
 

Bill Pemberton

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Sticky ole Bridgerocks, mean and nasty Black Enkeis, you are so wrong , because you got one of the best mods available , completed ------ the serious tire and rim intimidation factor.

Congrats , you just gained two seconds per Coniferous Timed Track!
 

drj2k1

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Finally got to run the mustang on for the first time this season yesterday with NNJR SCCA, and had a blast co-driving with my father. First I want to shout out NNJR for putting on a great event with a pretty fast/flowing ~40 second course. It was really awesome to see 99 people come together and follow the Covid guidelines/restrictions so we all could scratch the racing itch in the safest way possible.

Prepping the car was the typical last minute affair (as it always seems to be for the first event of the season), I installed the front Koni's on Friday afternoon and had the car dropped off at El Gato Engineering for an impromptu alignment Saturday morning. Steve & Teddy were very helpful in getting the car dialed in and I appreciated that they were able to get me out the door with plenty of time to get the rest of our equipment together for the race on Sunday. Unfortunately we weren't able to get as much camber up front as I wanted given the time constraints, but I'll be back to get a touch-up on the alignment in the near futures.

I've been curious about the weight of my mustang and the guys at El Gato were kind enough to throw her up on the scales. The car is essentially stock with no weight reduction (I didn't even take my helmet out or classroom supplies from the trunk lol), but I was happy to see she was sub 3500lbs with the 50 mile gas light on. Keep in mind my car has the glass roof option and premium package/leather.
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On Sunday we arrived at Metlife Stadium early, got the car setup for the day, and prayed that the rain would hold off for our first event with the updated setup. Our competition for the day in D street consisted of an Evo X, a couple Focus RS', a FRS, a Camaro 1LE turbo, and two BMW's. In the morning we came out of the gate a little too reserved as we tried to get the "rust off" while simultaneously learning the increased limits of the car. The car was definitely much more composed, and the levels of grip were significantly higher with the new setup. When the morning 4 runs were all said and done I was sitting 3rd place in class and my old man was sitting in 7th out of 9 cars.

In the afternoon I came out faster than I had in the AM, but wasn't happy with my driving. Comparing solo storm logs from the morning I was definitely overdriving some sections and underdriving others (especially the high speed slalom), I never trusted the car enough to really push the limits in the slalom. Temperatures continued to rise all afternoon and definitely favored those cars running Rivals/Yokos (especially the co-driven cars). Although we were faster in the afternoon and feeling more comfortable, I slipped to 4th in class (.178 behind a Focus RS) which was disappointing but didn't really damper the ecstasy of being back on track. The margin between 1st/2nd (Evo & Camaro respective) and 3rd/4th was larger than I care to admit, so it's clear we have a lot of work to do if we want to make the class veterans uncomfortable.

Out of 99 cars (23 of which were Pro's), I placed 55th in overall PAX. A lot of room for improvement moving forward I've got a lot to learn about driving this car well. Snapped a few pics of the car on course below and will eventually get around to uploading some solo storm overalled GoPro videos of the car on course (still learning the new software update). Next event looks like its July 11th and I can't wait to get back out there!

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drj2k1

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Finally got a chance to play around with the GoPro videos and we were able to figure out the new solo storm update for overlaying data. A little father/son video comparison in the V6 pony:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Its pretty clear that I over overdrove the finish (LOOOOOSE!) and I'd say I was too wide from the cones on the left hander before the big sweeper which cost some distance/time. My father's having a hard time adjusting to the size and "power" of the mustang coming from his NA Miata, especially in the slaloms. Always entertaining to look at the nuances between our driving styles/inputs, but would love to hear some feedback from some of the TMO cone chaser conglomerate.

Hope everyone had a safe holiday weekend,
J
 

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