I have a 2013 GHIG Boss 302 that has high miles and some issues. Motor, Trans, Rear End… all of drive train problem free and very strong.
BUT… car has 135,000 miles. I know it’s cliché, but it’s “Hwy Miles”, mileage is from a 50,000+ mile a year highway commute back and forth for a couple of years. I went a mile and a half, got on Interstate 95 and went for 125 miles, got off of interstate and drove two blocks.
ISSUES: Paint on hood bubbling and peeling in spots; Hit a snow bank and took off splitter and splash guard under motor; Front plastic bumper has flaws, small split; Rear bumper was hit from behind, not horrible, but has noticeable small gap issue where it buts up to driver side body (hit and run by a guy driving a 2022 Aston Martin Vantage… stolen you think???); Needs brake job, probably rotors, calipers, obviously pads; I bought car in 2007 with 24k on it, I’ve had every part of the A/C repaired/replace at some time or the other on five separate occasions… the A/C, since I’ve owned the car, has probably worked 60 days in total… and the effin’ A/C still doesn’t work; Wheels have some curb rash; Needs new set of tires; A few months ago the electric power steering went out… which also resulted in my TRAC control and ABS warning lights coming on.
Steering issue could be as simple as a plug, connection getting wet and corroded (because splash shield is missing), fuse, relay, etc. or as complicated as replacing the electric power steering assist rack. I have not tried to trouble shoot this nor have I had it looked at… that happened a couple of months ago and I just put it into storage.
The good… power train has zero issues. MT-82 was rebuilt and hefted up at 20K miles. Differential “exploded on me” at about 40K miles. Restoration/build shop put a completely new everything that is in, on, or near the diff with a unit they use in cars that produce 1000+ HP (it’s still a 3.73).
The car is stock (except for stronger differential) and has never been tracked and was driven “normal” 95% of the time. It’s probably been red-lined two or three times in seven years.
The body has no dents, rust, scratches etc. (except the plastic bumper covers and Ford POS hood).
The car has the Base 302 seats with no torsion… But it does have the factory (or dealer) original programmed Red Key.
So… I’m thinking a 2013 Boss 302 in really good shape with 135,000 miles would sale for low to mid twenties (not many/any comps).
Then deduct $1,500 for bumper covers, splitter and splash shield; $1,000 for brakes; $500 curb-rash wheels; $1,000 for tires; $200 to $2,000 to fix steering; $500 for A/C; $3500 to paint hood and bumpers……
FIXING CAR and selling: I’m at about $8K to $10K to fix it… and sell for maybe $23K to $25K… netting between $13K and $17K.
SELLING CAR: $12 to $15K net ($2000 discount from my “fix it” price, because now the buyer would have the hassle of fixing it).
SELLING TO A BUILDER: Maybe get $20K as-is from someone just looking for a solid platform to build a track car?
Any of the above would probably make my car the lowest priced 2013 Boss in the country with a clean title.
PARTING OUT: a thorough part-out, motor to nuts and bolts… will net me at least twice as much. But I hate to murder a Boss.
Any thoughts? Has anyone ever seen or heard of a high mileage Boss with comparable issue to mine selling?
Any other ideas or suggestions?
BUT… car has 135,000 miles. I know it’s cliché, but it’s “Hwy Miles”, mileage is from a 50,000+ mile a year highway commute back and forth for a couple of years. I went a mile and a half, got on Interstate 95 and went for 125 miles, got off of interstate and drove two blocks.
ISSUES: Paint on hood bubbling and peeling in spots; Hit a snow bank and took off splitter and splash guard under motor; Front plastic bumper has flaws, small split; Rear bumper was hit from behind, not horrible, but has noticeable small gap issue where it buts up to driver side body (hit and run by a guy driving a 2022 Aston Martin Vantage… stolen you think???); Needs brake job, probably rotors, calipers, obviously pads; I bought car in 2007 with 24k on it, I’ve had every part of the A/C repaired/replace at some time or the other on five separate occasions… the A/C, since I’ve owned the car, has probably worked 60 days in total… and the effin’ A/C still doesn’t work; Wheels have some curb rash; Needs new set of tires; A few months ago the electric power steering went out… which also resulted in my TRAC control and ABS warning lights coming on.
Steering issue could be as simple as a plug, connection getting wet and corroded (because splash shield is missing), fuse, relay, etc. or as complicated as replacing the electric power steering assist rack. I have not tried to trouble shoot this nor have I had it looked at… that happened a couple of months ago and I just put it into storage.
The good… power train has zero issues. MT-82 was rebuilt and hefted up at 20K miles. Differential “exploded on me” at about 40K miles. Restoration/build shop put a completely new everything that is in, on, or near the diff with a unit they use in cars that produce 1000+ HP (it’s still a 3.73).
The car is stock (except for stronger differential) and has never been tracked and was driven “normal” 95% of the time. It’s probably been red-lined two or three times in seven years.
The body has no dents, rust, scratches etc. (except the plastic bumper covers and Ford POS hood).
The car has the Base 302 seats with no torsion… But it does have the factory (or dealer) original programmed Red Key.
So… I’m thinking a 2013 Boss 302 in really good shape with 135,000 miles would sale for low to mid twenties (not many/any comps).
Then deduct $1,500 for bumper covers, splitter and splash shield; $1,000 for brakes; $500 curb-rash wheels; $1,000 for tires; $200 to $2,000 to fix steering; $500 for A/C; $3500 to paint hood and bumpers……
FIXING CAR and selling: I’m at about $8K to $10K to fix it… and sell for maybe $23K to $25K… netting between $13K and $17K.
SELLING CAR: $12 to $15K net ($2000 discount from my “fix it” price, because now the buyer would have the hassle of fixing it).
SELLING TO A BUILDER: Maybe get $20K as-is from someone just looking for a solid platform to build a track car?
Any of the above would probably make my car the lowest priced 2013 Boss in the country with a clean title.
PARTING OUT: a thorough part-out, motor to nuts and bolts… will net me at least twice as much. But I hate to murder a Boss.
Any thoughts? Has anyone ever seen or heard of a high mileage Boss with comparable issue to mine selling?
Any other ideas or suggestions?
Last edited:
