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SN95 4FOR5 Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

137
95
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
weld the hole sup and redrill them.
I knew there was something funky about those lower trailing arms and their attachments.
Looks like you have your hands full fixing someon else's problems, but you'll be happy when it's done.
So how did it handle as is?
Hooks up Good from a stop or in the straight. Like crap in the turns, even worse in the esses. I've learned from reading your posts that the solid uppers, quad shocks, those LCA's, plus the sway bar made everything way too stiff.
 

Frank.JD.Perez

FJD Performance
102
116
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Pleasanton/Hayward, CA
take it with a grain of salt, but my rear suspension set up isnt that in depth and the car handles well enough. i have mm hd rlcas with the mm phb, ford racing c springs with a coil cut, eibach rear sway, (finally) new koni single adjustable shocks all the way stiff on rebound and both the factory upper arms. eventually ill do coils and a TA, but i spent a long time with 90% of what i just typed. i was running factory spec 10 year old kybs in back for the longest time
 
137
95
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
take it with a grain of salt, but my rear suspension set up isnt that in depth and the car handles well enough. i have mm hd rlcas with the mm phb, ford racing c springs with a coil cut, eibach rear sway, (finally) new koni single adjustable shocks all the way stiff on rebound and both the factory upper arms. eventually ill do coils and a TA, but i spent a long time with 90% of what i just typed. i was running factory spec 10 year old kybs in back for the longest time
This is great feedback! Thank you!
 
3,800
3,738
take it with a grain of salt, but my rear suspension set up isnt that in depth and the car handles well enough. i have mm hd rlcas with the mm phb, ford racing c springs with a coil cut, eibach rear sway, (finally) new koni single adjustable shocks all the way stiff on rebound and both the factory upper arms. eventually ill do coils and a TA, but i spent a long time with 90% of what i just typed. i was running factory spec 10 year old kybs in back for the longest time
That setup with the PHB and upper links is basically solid. I put one of those PHB on my 4 link and you could literally jack up one side of the car by cranking on the PHB. You're only saving grace was the flexibility of those stock upper trailing arms. NASA in American Iron finally changed the rules to allow "non spec" bushing material. We replaced the bushings on 1 side with styrofoam and installed a PHB. The remaining side was urethane.

You will also find that a huge improvement can be made with the Steeda 2X ball joints, because lowering the front of these cars drops the front roll center below the level of the pavement without them. (and sometimes, even with them)
 
137
95
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
That setup with the PHB and upper links is basically solid. I put one of those PHB on my 4 link and you could literally jack up one side of the car by cranking on the PHB. You're only saving grace was the flexibility of those stock upper trailing arms. NASA in American Iron finally changed the rules to allow "non spec" bushing material. We replaced the bushings on 1 side with styrofoam and installed a PHB. The remaining side was urethane.

You will also find that a huge improvement can be made with the Steeda 2X ball joints, because lowering the front of these cars drops the front roll center below the level of the pavement without them. (and sometimes, even with them)
That setup with the PHB and upper links is basically solid. I put one of those PHB on my 4 link and you could literally jack up one side of the car by cranking on the PHB. You're only saving grace was the flexibility of those stock upper trailing arms. NASA in American Iron finally changed the rules to allow "non spec" bushing material. We replaced the bushings on 1 side with styrofoam and installed a PHB. The remaining side was urethane.

You will also find that a huge improvement can be made with the Steeda 2X ball joints, because lowering the front of these cars drops the front roll center below the level of the pavement without them. (and sometimes, even with them)
I will be using the new LCA‘s with TA, PHB and adjustable sway bar. No uppers or quads.
I will definitely look into the 2x ball joints. Thanks
 
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137
95
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
I started taking inventory of the front arms while I wait for the rear parts to arrive. You may be able to tell from the image that the front bushings are mushroomed out. My suspicion is this is due to very hard braking on track. I don‘t know for sure though. I’m thinking of going to Delrin bushings.

527B96C7-9858-4098-B9E7-8F3B04CC5330.jpeg
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
5,763
4,303
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Like you BS 1 I still have very fond memories of my 97 Cobra and my 99 Cobra. Was running 2nd in FS at the Solo Nationals in 97 with my Cobra and it was only my 5th event of the year. Fell back on day 2 as I really was not used to the car ( first time I has sticky rubber on the car ) but was rewarded by friends who told me over the years the runs made them switch over to a Mustang from a Camaro or Firebird. Crazy to many , but I loved that high revving 4.6 and it was what intrigued me about the Boss and the GT 350 ---- had to get each over time. Fun seeing the builds of the older Mustangs, really glad LudaChris added new categories for the older Stangs , as we all have love of these cars since they are in our communal DNA.
 
137
95
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
I've learned a lot about this chassis. I like the dimension and weight.
The biggest hurdle I'm dealing with is that all the suspension bushings are worn out and the PO used almost all suspension parts and k-member from Granatelli.
According to EVERY supplier I've talked to, they were known to copy other designs and have them made in china. IDK.
None of the bushings are interchangeable with other manufacturers. I can't get anything from Granatelli anymore. Jack Hidley at MM has been really working hard to help me and what I have been able to order from them is a couple of months backordered, so I may have to just push this project into the corner until next year. (on second thought...I'll just move on to the aero stuff and safety for now)
 
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Frank.JD.Perez

FJD Performance
102
116
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Pleasanton/Hayward, CA
id do safety and just wait around for suspension stuff. not like the racetracks are going anywhere. ive got one last hurrah next week until the 2022 season kicks off in march. gonna do some more aero related stuff in the off season. probably gonna do some things with ideas bounced off @_slib and @Fabman
 
137
95
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
while working on the front I noticed the inner tie rods were worn. The rack is great, no leaks or gear slop. You can also see in the image the bent tie rod. Anyone have recommendations on Some Race Quality tie rods?

0FE155D1-33E4-403E-B58D-44D5C5BE627F.jpeg
 
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3,800
3,738
You don't want "race quality" tie rods, they just transfer shock loads to the rack, every mustang team I've worked for had the same issue so we always kept a box of tie rods lying around. Trust me, you don't want to beef up the tie rods, it just causes headaches elsewhere.
 
137
95
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
You don't want "race quality" tie rods, they just transfer shock loads to the rack, every mustang team I've worked for had the same issue so we always kept a box of tie rods lying around. Trust me, you don't want to beef up the tie rods, it just causes headaches elsewhere.
Thanks BS-1. I can find them $17 to $60 online. Do you think there's any difference in quality?
 
3,800
3,738
Thanks BS-1. I can find them $17 to $60 online. Do you think there's any difference in quality?
Well, I've always been a Moog fan, but I think even they are having stuff built in china now, so to be honest, as long as they are moog or TRW or some other name brand, you're prolly OK
 

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