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boss 302 brake fluid bleeding procedure

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Just purchased some new dot 4 brake fluid and want to change the fluid before my first de date this saturday. Anyone have a link or could tell me the proper procedure.....also on the brembo brakes where I would bleed the fluid do I need to torque those down or just tighten them...as well as the ford ones on the back..

Maybe a stupid question, but why did ford not put the brembo's on the back too, the ford calipers and pads look awfully small.

thanks for the help
John
 
The rear caliper is small because if you ran something bigger the pads would slap the rear rotors, you would have to do a full floating rear conversion, not worth it. You don't ha e to torque the bleeders, you just have to remove the reservoir cap and cover it so nothing gets in, pump the brakes a few times to build pressure, hold the peddle down as you loosen the bleeder and keep pressure on the brake peddle. When no more fluid comes out you tighten the bleeder down, no real torque just tight, and not too tight since they are very small. Then check the reservoir level level and top off as needed, never want to the whole reservoir drain since it will introduce air into the system. Just do this a few times for all calipers and you're done.
 
Google brake bleeding and as long as you have someone to help pump the pedal the old fashioned way still works well. These torque specs are in In. Lbs.

Front bleeder screw 156 in lbs 11 mm
Rear bleeder screw 89 in lbs 11 mm
 
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Success! All went well. I flushed with the ATE Super blue. Started in the PR, DR, PF, DF. Basically did it the manual two person job. Had my twelve year old son, pump brakes a few times, then had him push on it while I opened and bleeded the lines, hadto do this like 15 times in the rear. Maybe half that for the front bleeders. The blue fluid worked well as I could see when it was through the lines.

Now time to learn how to change brake pads. Thanks for helpimg the newbie.
 
Pads are 100 times easier, for the front at least since you pop the pin and pull the pads and then slide new ones in. Rears need the special caliper press otherwise I think you can ruin the parking brake.
 
johna said:
Success! All went well. I flushed with the ATE Super blue. Started in the PR, DR, PF, DF. Basically did it the manual two person job. Had my twelve year old son, pump brakes a few times, then had him push on it while I opened and bleeded the lines, hadto do this like 15 times in the rear. Maybe half that for the front bleeders. The blue fluid worked well as I could see when it was through the lines.

Now time to learn how to change brake pads. Thanks for helpimg the newbie.
John - Here is a link to swapping the front pads in our How-To section: https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2362.0

There's a good writeup of the backs here at Team Shelby: http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51062 Note that it's easier to compress the piston if you only remove one bolt from the caliper.

There's also a good writeup on a complete brake job in the How-To section here: https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=4834.0
 

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