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S197 Boss 302 in Chile Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

Boss 302 now at 95% track/5% Street. But still has its papers!!

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This is what HAL says.

The 2011–2014 Coyote isn't a fixed-pressure system. It's electronic returnless: the PCM commands a rail pressure target and a Fuel Pump Driver Module varies the pump's duty cycle to hold it. There's no in-tank regulator setting a constant value (AmericanMuscle). ~55 psi is the figure usually quoted as the base target, and I could not verify a factory spec number from a source I'd stand behind, so treat it as approximate rather than a specification.


Why that changes the question. Because pressure is closed-loop, 55 psi is what you get while the pump still has headroom. Once duty saturates at 100%, the commanded pressure stops being achievable and the actual pressure falls — and injector flow falls with the square root of it. That happens at peak rpm and peak load, which is exactly where you don't want it. So the useful number isn't the system's nominal pressure, it's your rail pressure at 7,600 rpm at WOT on E85. That's a measurement, not a spec.


And here's the part I'd take seriously. Converting your own dyno figures to volume at the rail:


fuel massvolume at rail
E85, 527 rwhp388–417 lb/hr225–242 L/hr
same power on 98265–285 lb/hr161–174 L/hr

E85 costs you about 40% more pump for the same horsepower. A single stock Coyote in-tank pump is generally reckoned good for somewhere around 500–550 crank hp on petrol — which translates to roughly 360–390 hp on E85. You're asking it to support ~606.


So one of two things is true: your pump isn't stock, or it's running with essentially no margin.


If it's the second, note that your dyno pull didn't test it. A pull is fifteen seconds at full load with a cold, full tank. A Codegua lap is two minutes with the tank heat-soaking, the level dropping, and sustained lateral g pushing fuel away from the pickup in long corners. A pump that holds pressure on the rollers can give it up on lap four with a quarter tank in a long right-hander — and on an 12:1 engine on E85 at 7,800 rpm, a lean event there is not a slow failure.


Two channels on the next log settle it: FPDC and fuel rail pressure, both at WOT to the limiter. If FPDC is pegged at 100% or rail pressure sags below target near redline, the pump is the answer before anything else on the list
 
Hmmm ok this seems to be the next level up from the BAP:
But Gemini is saying this is only good enough for moderate track days and isn't good enough for enduro. Gemini says you need a full return style fuel system...
 
OK -- here's my log.
You're looking at fuel pump duty cycle, but I'm talking about fuel injector duty cycle.

Fuel injector duty cycle is the percentage of time the injector solenoid has a voltage applied, opening the pintle and spraying fuel. You want have a typical max. duty cycle of 80-85%; going over 90% starts you toward things like the solenoid overheating, too little pintle recovery time, a distorted spray pattern, and loss of metering precision.

I'm guessing that fuel pump duty cycle has to do with the pulse-width modulation (PWM) signal the ECU/PCM sends the fuel pump driver module, which regulates voltage to the fuel pump to maintain fuel rail pressure without a traditional pressure regulator.
 
The DW400 is definitely the easy button.

This article that says the S197 has a 5/16" outlet from the pump hanger, but the S550 uses 3/8" and shows you how to upgrade. The DW400 has different install kits for S197 and S550; I'm guessing they used the S550 kit in the S550 pump hanger, but I'd check with Deatschworks to verify.
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/build-1000hp-fuel-system-2011-2014-mustang

Or you might be able to drill out the factory SAE fitting and replace it with an AN bulkhead fitting and a barb adapter on the inside for the fuel pump line. Or drop the big bucks on a Radium pump hanger assembly.
 
I've spent a lot of time reading about the fuel system from the official Ford books on the subject, so let me just dump some info here to clarify anything you get from HAL.

The S197 Coyote fuel system is, indeed, returnless with a single supply line running from the tank to the engine bay. What this means is that the computer is trying to maintain a target pressure in the fuel rail at all times (55 psi target with a 58 psi in-tank regulator) by powering the fuel pump on demand, rather than a fuel pump that runs all the time at 100% and requires a return line for the unused excess. It also has the benefit of keeping the fuel pump alive for longer and cooler (in scenarios where you're not demanding 100% constantly, of course). It does this via a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) power signal that effectively varies the voltage the pump sees, running it either slower or faster as needed (I won't get into the relationship between the PCM, the Pump, and the Fuel Pump Driver Module unless you want to dive in that deep). The more voltage it gets, the faster it spins, the more fuel you get. Most fuel pump ratings you see will be at 12V. The stock system can show the fuel pump alternator charging voltage (13.5V - 14V), which can technically boost it beyond the rated figure. This is where the Boost-a-Pump comes into play - mostly used for short-sprint drag race scenarios as a cheap way to increase fuel delivery temporarily. The stress and strain it puts on the pump is why it isn't recommended for long duration use and I would also suggest just seeking a larger pump at that point.

The stock fuel pump running 12V @ 60psi has been measured to produce 217 liters-per-hour of fuel while using 10.6 amps. The same pressure target running 13.5V is 268 LPH while using 11.5 amps.
Stock2011FlowAndAmpRatings.PNG

One note about fuel pump selection. If you retain the factory returnless system configuration with the FPDM, make sure the fuel pump you choose works with PWM power signals. The Deatschwerks ones being suggested have a turbine impeller like the factory one, so they work great. If you retain the factory system and don't want to do any wiring or add additional modules, it's also easiest to stick with one larger pump rather than going twin pumps.

If you find the DW400 meets your flow needs, the install kit specific to the S197 Coyote is 9-401-1046
You can find an install video here as well.

One thing to think about with this, and any pump, is that the S197 Coyote FPDM power delivery wire is 12 gauge. It was 10 gauge on the Shelby 5.4L GT500. That power delivery wire runs from the fuse box to the very back of the trunk where the FPDM is, so when you're measuring a wire's ability to carry certain amps over distance make sure you don't stop at the rear seat area if you're keeping the module. According to the amp handling charts I have, it should be sufficient to run the DW400 but not with much overhead (which is why they recommend 10 gauge on the website).
Additionally, the fuel pump fuse #13 supplies power to both the fuel pump and the fuel injectors. At 60 psi, the DW400 is rated to consume 17.7 amps, which will likely blow the stock 20 amp fuse in that location. Additionally, the ISO 280 Micro relay that runs the fuel pump and injectors is only technically rated for about 20 amps continuous duty as well (though it should be noted that the Shelby 5.4L GT500 used the same relay with a 25 amp fuse providing power to two Coyote fuel pumps, which together draw about 20 amps, and the fuel injector load was on that same circuit for the 5.4L as well). Better to think ahead than have your fuel pump and injectors turn off the first time you ask for WOT fuel delivery ;). You could try to run a 25amp fuse in #13. I know the Boost-a-Pump instructions will just tell you to slap a 30amp fuse in there, so if the micro relay was running into issues I bet they wouldn't advise that (however, once again, the Micro 280 ISO relay is supposedly rated for a much higher momentary capacity which would be okay for the 10 seconds during a drag racing pass - not a continuous endurance racing scenario). I'd still keep a spare relay in the trailer, just in case.

The S550 changed it so the fuel pump runs on its own larger capacity (30amp continuous) relay and is no longer saddled with also providing fuel injector power, so make sure to be clear where information is coming from and if it applies to you. I hope this rant helps at least a little, good luck.
 
@Mad Hatter -- it looks like something like this is what is recommended for your situation:
I know very little about this stuff -- researching what'd be best for my situation so I looked for solutions for yours as well. Looks like a complicated mod!

@Fabman's build sheet says:
Weldon Pump, filter and return style fuel system with MMR fuel rails and LU47 injectors on e85. I'm sure he can give some good advice on this stuff.
 
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I am thinking about the DW400 pump in one of these....

Fuel Pump Hangers​

https://www.radiumauto.com/products/fuel-pump-hanger-2011-ford-mustang-shelby
Plus looking at the wiring and relay upgrades. No wonder these coyotes are so sensitive to alternator problems!! Dropping even to 12V would leave you short of fuel.
Yeah I was wondering about that too. I wonder if the 200 AMP alternator is in order for this stuff? Or is the Boss one enough. I hear you have to upgrade the electrical lines to use one of these.
 
@Mad Hatter -- it looks like something like this is what is recommended for your situation:
I know very little about this stuff -- researching what'd be best for my situation so I looked for solutions for yours as well. Looks like a complicated mod!

@Fabman's build sheet says:
Weldon Pump, filter and return style fuel system with MMR fuel rails and LU47 injectors on e85. I'm sure he can give some good advice on this stuff.
I got a lot of reading to do!!
 

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