Captdistraction's ST2/GTR build thread Build Thread

[captdistraction]

You can also see the factory coolant hoses in that picture as well. Man, I wish my harnesses were that clean, nice spartan engine bay in there.

I didn't look closely at my clutch line, but it looked ok. I had not tracked the car since adding longtubes, so I'm not sure how much an issue that is. I know the starter wiring was pretty roasted, and I will be spending some money in appropriate heat shielding there.

 

[captdistraction]

Today's update:

-I purchased a boss manifold install kit (been running the GT fuel/vapor stuff forever so might as well make it 100%)
-Paid for and picked up my remanufactured mcleod RXT clutch and lightened steel flywheel ( I previously used the factory flywheel which was a mistake with that clutch kit)
-removed the headliner, speakers, and door panels. Only interior panels left are the dash and the left side pillar pod (I'm working on its replacement now, will likely use the watson panel with a few gauges installed)


I'm curious what others have done for the main body harness, have you completely torn it down and removed the unneeded options? Or just remove connectors as necessary and remove fuses from the deprecated systems?

Pictures as always

Clutch rebuild:






Old disc lining vs new:


I hate dynamat, and myself for ever using it:





Should be Front Towards Enemy, but close enough:

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Dynamat residue...yikes!

 

[VoodooBoss]

Chris, who re manufactured your clutch and what material did they use?

 

[captdistraction]

AZ Brake and Clutch was the shop I used, the lining is a copper ceramic that matches the original material.

It did look the same when they showed me the discs before mounting, but after being cut down in the waterjet (they did the faces and the OD of the linings) the material appears much more dark.

 

[captdistraction]

Whoa another update? no weigh:

Got the dash out today, stripped the AC systems out of it, along with the main body harness. I'm trying to de-pin the stereo stuff to be able to sell the nav and AC system as a whole, but we'll see. I might be able to replace that harness from another car that didn't have all of it, but we'll see.

At this point, I might just move forward with the cage install first then re-install the motor. My concern is removing everything may create some headaches when it comes to testing/troubleshooting the motor should there be any issues, but I'll try to get all of that worked out. However, as far apart as the car is, makes sense to gut the doors, pull the glass, and hand it off to the cage builder and let him go to town.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

You're going to want to go through sound-deadening-removal hell before sending it off for cage, because it's gonna be a lot more difficult once the jungle gym is installed.

 

[captdistraction]

oh yeah. Stripping the interior completely (including sound deadening) will come before the cage.

I just mean I might as well wait on the motor and get the cage done

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

oh yeah. Stripping the interior completely (including sound deadening) will come before the cage.

I just mean I might as well wait on the motor and get the cage done

Word. If the car is completed in time to do some shakedown runs during the last couple events of the year in Oct-Dec you should be in good shape for the 2016 season.

 

[captdistraction]

God I hope so. Really once the cage is in, I have a thing that makes the vroom vroom noises, and a couple small bits like fire system and belts, I'm set, or so I hope.

Next trick is getting it to/from events for shakedown. That's a whole different moneypit situation.

 

[Tucson 302]

Next trick is getting it to/from events for shakedown. That's a whole different moneypit situation.

You have no idea, but I went big with the RV...are you putting in a fuel cell or can you get by with the stock gas tank

 

[captdistraction]

stock tank without a doubt. Won't go to plumbing a cell unless rules someday require it.

Today's update: Ordered all the hardware for the heads, new cams, new valveseals, some gaskets, new boss valvesprings (to replace the used boss valvesprings), and a firewall part I managed to break on the steering linkage. Le sigh.

Can anyone speak to whether or not I need the body control module? (dual plug module, black and brown plugs)
Also, does anyone have the part number for the interior main harness for a boss or base GT? I know my all options GT is CR3Z-14401-KA

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

If you mean the one on the tunnel, I kept it. There are fuel pump circuits going in and out of there (only two wires, though). You might try just jumpering them and see if everything works still. Also not sure if you remove that if the car will chime like crazy if it thinks the doors are open or some shiznit.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Maybe call Rehagen and talk to them about this harness? http://rehagenracingproducts.com/2013-COBRA-JET-MUSTANG-CONTROLS-PACK-HARNESS-M-14A006-CJ13.htm

 

[Roadhouse]

In regards to the restraints module, I think Jamie had his removed for awhile and it freaked the car out a little. I know he was having trouble getting the car started and from my understanding after he put I back in everything went back to normal.

 

[captdistraction]

the module I am talking about sits midway into the dash, behind the stereo. Do I also need the airbag/restraint module that sat low on the tunnel under the dash? I kinda sent that one off with the airbags.

 

[Budget Boss]

In regards to the restraints module, I think Jamie had his removed for awhile and it freaked the car out a little. I know he was having trouble getting the car started and from my understanding after he put I back in everything went back to normal.

I was having problems and did put it back in. However, the problems starting the car didn't stop. It turned out to be the Solid state Master cut off switch. There was some resistance in a diode that eventually blew and started a fire in the trunk of the car by the battery. Once all of the solid state cut off switches were replace by the old style kill switches the car starts right up first time every time. That being said the restraint module is still hooked up just hidden under the dash.

I know that Drew kept his restraint module and that the Boss 302R/S kept theirs too. On the wiring diagram it connects to the fuel system. The only thing I could think up with was that Ford did this so that if you were in an accident and the air bags deployed the fuel pump would shut off, but that is just me guessing. As for when the restraint module was removed from my car, once the I could get the car started, the car ran just fine.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

the module I am talking about sits midway into the dash, behind the stereo. Do I also need the airbag/restraint module that sat low on the tunnel under the dash? I kinda sent that one off with the airbags.

Everything electronic behind the dash is gone on my car save for the instrument cluster, and the kick-panel body fuse box on the passenger side.

 

[Budget Boss]

Odyssey Battery and Odyssey hold down kit I have in my car-

http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/pc680mjt-p?pp=12

http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/hk-pc680?pp=12

 

[captdistraction]

Nice stuff guys. Can someone take a picture of the restraint module? Also, just to be clear, its not the module pictured here?



I believe that module to be the body control module, but I'll admit to not studying wiring diagrams yet.