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Coyote engine noise

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Yes and they are $60 a set versus $400 for a set of 32 from Livernois or Pac.
Yep, absolutely. I think they're the matching choice for a stock cam car especially at that price. Just wanted to make sure you didn't order only one by accident and go 'what the heck' when the bag only had 16 inside. ;)
 
Figured out the noise -- it's piston slap aka the BBQ tick. I'm not gonna worry about it. One thing though -- when we first built the car my mechanic used Mobil 1 5W-50 for the first oil change. I didn't notice the noise at this time. More recently I did an oil change using Motorcraft 5W-50. Not long after I noticed the noise. Gonna try going back to the Mobil 1 and see what happens.
 
I generally stay clear of oil threads.
But if you've got a car under warranty and you lunch a motor you better be prepared to prove to the stealer that the oil and other parts you had in it comply with the standard that Ford specifies. If you can't then get ready for a battle.

For that reason alone I get my oil changes done at the dealer and I insist they follow the book with regard to the oil spec, weight and change interval for a track use car as per the car manual or Ford's service manual.

I also insist on only Motorcraft service parts.
They know my car sees track duty and they are to service it according to the manual which sets out the service schedule for track use. Hopefully I'm wasting my money on dealer service and parts costs, but I like to hedge my bets.
 
I generally stay clear of oil threads.
But if you've got a car under warranty and you lunch a motor you better be prepared to prove to the stealer that the oil and other parts you had in it comply with the standard that Ford specifies. If you can't then get ready for a battle.

For that reason alone I get my oil changes done at the dealer and I insist they follow the book with regard to the oil spec, weight and change interval for a track use car as per the car manual or Ford's service manual.

I also insist on only Motorcraft service parts.
They know my car sees track duty and they are to service it according to the manual which sets out the service schedule for track use. Hopefully I'm wasting my money on dealer service and parts costs, but I like to hedge my bets.
Agree! But my car is a boneyard frankenstein of a BOSS 302 restoration project! I'd be lucky if a dealer would even touch it lol. I even had a local Mustang tuner refuse to work on it!
It really is in excellent shape though, and in reality it is very close to stock BOSS 302 form! Damn that VIN on in the doorwell!

I'm planning on doing most oil changes myself so I can take frequent looks at the oil and underside of the car.
 
Figured out the noise -- it's piston slap aka the BBQ tick. I'm not gonna worry about it. One thing though -- when we first built the car my mechanic used Mobil 1 5W-50 for the first oil change. I didn't notice the noise at this time. More recently I did an oil change using Motorcraft 5W-50. Not long after I noticed the noise. Gonna try going back to the Mobil 1 and see what happens.
I thought the going theory on the bbq tick was that it was the big rod ends bumping into each other? Either way, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. There are endless noise complaints on these engines and most seem to just ignore it.

I just dumped the old Castrol 5w40 and replaced it with 0w40 mobil 1 api sp. It may be quieter. Too early to tell.
 
I thought the going theory on the bbq tick was that it was the big rod ends bumping into each other? Either way, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. There are endless noise complaints on these engines and most seem to just ignore it.

I just dumped the old Castrol 5w40 and replaced it with 0w40 mobil 1 api sp. It may be quieter. Too early to tell.
I could have the nicknames mixed up, but in my case the sound is intermittent and barely noticeable. From my understanding of rod knock you can't miss it.

If the Mobil 1 works I may try a lighter oil as well...
 
I always default back to the Grand Am days.
.020 over bore
Manley rods
Roush valve springs
Later you could run better gears in the oil pump.
I don't remember on the oil pan
That's all we could do, meanwhile the LS engines were popping like popcorn until a dry sump was made legal.
 
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So the feedback on the 0w40 is the noise might be louder. Very distinctive, tapping at low throttle 2-3k. Tipping into the throttle makes it go away. The warmer the oil, the quieter.

I am going with the cam phasers. To check my thought is to pull the plug on the solenoid and see if it goes away. I am guessing the cam will go to full advance or retard similar if the solenoid failed. Other than the CEL, any reason this is a bad idea?
 
Pulled the Vct solenoid plugs and there was zero effect. Actually, without checking my scanner I would not have been able to tell they were disconnected.

Either way the noise persisted. So it’s either a timing chain type issue or I am starting to think piston slap. I never really noticed it until ambient temps dropped below 60*. It’s way more apparent on a cold morning start cycle. And it takes some time for the noise to diminish. It does not track with water temp but more oil and core temp of the engine.
 
Honestly it could be totally normal. Only reason I noticed it going into this fall is I have a much quieter exhaust than last year.

As far as oil, I will run the 0w40 for this winter and maybe the first couple early events next year. Then I will switch to a 5w50, or maybe a 5w40 on the heavy side.

I pulled an oil sample from the last change, I will see what kind of wear metals are in that. If it’s low, I will just roll with it.
 
Why don't you call Phoenix Performance and ask for Andrew. Tell them I sent you.
Whatever their recomendations are, I would follow.
0 weight oil just makes my brain hurt.
 
Yes- 0wt is saving the earth by increasing engine wear.

My 16 GT350 got a bit of the slappy piston noises but none of my other coyotes (17 Voodoo, 21 Predator and 17 Coyote) have had it.
Pretty sure that's it. Watched some vids on Voodoo piston slap and mine sounds similar. Never really noticed until start up temps went below 60*. Once fully warmed, noise is gone.

0W is only for startup protection for the cold months. Knowing what I do now, I will dump it for a 50wt before any events.
 

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