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DSS v. Dynotech Driveshaft

pufferfish said:
just be prepared for the possibility of needing adjustable UCA or LCA's...even with the DSS. both have documented cases of vibrations. both have been able to be solved with proper pinion angle adjustments or sometimes just clocking the driveshaft 180 degrees. theres no magic bullet to bolt in a 1-piece driveshaft in place of a 2-piece. there's a reason ford put it in there. think about it. if CV's were vibration slayers, why didn't ford put in a 1-piece just like the DSS? it has to be cheaper than that 2-piece with a carrier bearing. the 2-piece is in there because only a 2-piece can make up for poor factory geometry.

since we are on that, my theory is that moving from a 4link to a 3link got ford better traction, but more drivetrain noise. so, they loosened up the bubber compound in the bushings to make them ultra-compliant and reduce noise. this is why the s197's have issues with using a 1-piece driveshaft. the "loosey goosey" factory 3rd link can't control pinion angle. thats my conspiracy theory anyhow.

again, i am not trying to sell anyone on the Dynotech shaft or steer anyone away from DSS. i just want people to be informed. i would want to know if an item i was buying had even a 1% chance of not working as is.

I can deal with the 1%. If I have to make an adjustment from the start then I'm not to comfortable with that. I still need to educate myself on this before I take the next step. This is uncharted territory for me and I'm not ready to jump in to it yet. It would be different if I had someone with experience to check my work. I'm not a fan of going to a mechanic, I'm sure there are good one's around here, but it's like blind faith until I do, and I lack that. I normally do things myself, or take to a dealer if I cant do it. I'll post on the club forum I belong too, maybe there is a do-it-yourself shop with a mechanic on standby around here and, I'll see what happens.
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
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Your mod list doesn't include any suspension lowering bits, so if you are riding at the stock height, the install is pretty straight forward. I believe Justin even posted a how-to thread on this. As with most jobs that require ramps or jacks stands, this job is best done with an extra set of hands.
 
ace72ace said:
Your mod list doesn't include any suspension lowering bits, so if you are riding at the stock height, the install is pretty straight forward. I believe Justin even posted a how-to thread on this. As with most jobs that require ramps or jacks stands, this job is best done with an extra set of hands.

I agree, I'll get my brother in-law to help me and he has a lift , it's a frame lift but we could set it down on blocks to check the measurement. I still need to find out more on this, don't want to damage my baby. So any input is welcome. Thanks
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
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Sounds like a plan. This is one of those hard to quantify mods, but I swear it just feels snappier and never, ever get the 2 piece 'clunk' noise when shifting at low speeds. If you are near the Virginia area, I'm sure Justin could help you out for the normal fee of a good meal and a cooler of beer! ;D
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Really an easy install, just clean the pinion mating flange with scotch rite or fine sandpaper and use Loctite on all the bolts. It is a worthwhile mod if only to save the weight. The driveline inertia reduction is a side benefit that is not easy to quantify but has some effect.
Steve
 
ace72ace said:
Sounds like a plan. This is one of those hard to quantify mods, but I swear it just feels snappier and never, ever get the 2 piece 'clunk' noise when shifting at low speeds. If you are near the Virginia area, I'm sure Justin could help you out for the normal fee of a good meal and a cooler of beer! ;D

Sounds good too me. My cousins husband is stationed at Norfolk, that would be a good time to visit. Lol
 
steveespo said:
Really an easy install, just clean the pinion mating flange with scotch rite or fine sandpaper and use Loctite on all the bolts. It is a worthwhile mod if only to save the weight. The driveline inertia reduction is a side benefit that is not easy to quantify but has some effect.
Steve

I can see how it would feel more responsive with less weight and no carrier bearing. Has anyone that you know of that has done this had a bad measurement, and if so what was the fix? Do you shim it if it's to short? Saw a piece off if it to long? :)
 
They found my rental 2013 GT had a torn boot at the carrier bearing when they put it on the lift to replace the hub. It's the same place on my buddy's GT and I had the torn boot at the pinion. Look like upgrading the DS is a good idea for many reasons.
 
Just ordered the DSS aluminum from Lethal today during their President's Day sale at 10% off for $675 shipped. Has anyone that's installed the one-piece weighed it and the stocker to determine the total weight savings?
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
1,242
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Seems like history is repeating itself with the 10% off sale from Lethal. For those who can't swing the purchase for the current sale, this same deal should be available in a few months for their Memorial Day (weekend) sale. That's when I got mine last year, w/shipping to NH it was I think $683. Also there are 2 group buy threads here on BMO for the alum or CF shaft.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
racered302 said:
I can see how it would feel more responsive with less weight and no carrier bearing. Has anyone that you know of that has done this had a bad measurement, and if so what was the fix? Do you shim it if it's to short? Saw a piece off if it to long? :)
mine was longer then what was on the sheet so I called them and told them the measurement and he said I was fine. I have yet to have any vibrations from the DSS 1 piece in my boss and its been on the car for quite some time. I dont have adjustable control arms on my car.

I trust the DSS unit over the stock one half the joints that can fail on the DSS vs the stock 2 piece.
 
steveespo said:
Gary
It is a 21.8 lb weight savings with the aluminum DSS shaft.
Steve

I ordered the DSS 3 1/4" carbon fiber shaft and am really happy with it. I shift at 7000 to 7500 regularly and just came back from a 600 mile road trip with no issues.

The DSS unit is so much quieter and much more vibration free than the 2 piece stock steel unit and weighs a little less than the aluminum shaft which sounds like is a great piece as well.

With over 20 pounds of less rotating mass to get going there is no doubt that I have a small gain in performance over the stock drive shaft.

;)
 

BOSS343

Theory of 1
ace72ace said:
Mine was installed in a driveway on jack stands with a jack under the diff 'pumpkin'. If you follow the instructions and then measure for fitment after the car is back on the ground you should find that you are within the required spec.

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not to nit pick here. but it looks like you squashed one of your cats just a lil bit. just curious.
 
That's not the cat and that pipe comes that way from the factory. The cat's at the other end of the H-pipe.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The cats are at the bottom of this pic:

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BOSS343

Theory of 1
cloud9 said:
That's not the cat and that pipe comes that way from the factory. The cat's at the other end of the H-pipe.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The cats are at the bottom of this pic:

20130211094336.jpg

Gary....

That was SO just a test :p Thanks by the way...I swear I'm not dumb. Seriously wasn't paying attention when I looked at those pics. Upon actually looking. yup. Wish I could blame alcohol, sleep deprivation, ...can't. plain and simple thought it was the front of the car for no known reason. Prolly the layout of the driveway and thats the way my head faces when I change oil on the ranger...I dunno. Thanks for the correction. From now on I promise I won't talk.
 
I thought they were dented cat's the first time I saw them while taking the restrictor plates out, then I assumed they were resonators because I didn't see any O2 sensors.
 

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