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Engine tick after oil change?

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I was surfing YouTube this morning and stumbled on several videos complaining about engine tick on 5.0 Coyote motors after an oil change. I then Googled it and there are several posts. Just curious if anyone has experienced this. This is the first I heard about it.
 
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No issues here.... I would check to see what type of oil the people with problems are using. The Boss HAS to have 5w50....
 
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adam81 said:
No issues here.... I would check to see what type of oil the people with problems are using. The Boss HAS to have 5w50....

The complaints I see have all been from 2011/2012 5.0 GT people. I have not seen any complaints on the Boss.
 
just got my first oil change and picked up a bad ticking sound in bottom of engine. General concensus is that it is the timing chain. anyone have any experience with this? Dealer knows of two others they have worked on with the same issue. Not Bosses but 5.0 GT's
 
I haven't heard of it until I saw this thread. So far, I have not experienced engine tick everytime I change oil that is why I am not familiar with the issue. Albeit I change oil at home by myself, I haven't experienced that problem. Moreover, after reading the article changing oil is not rocket science, it assured me that changing oil at home is advantageous. Well, I bet engine tick could happen depending upon the oil and type of automobile.
 
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Anyone tried Brad Penn (not sure if they make a full synthetic) or Royal Purple?
I'd be very curious to know if there are any oil gurus out there with engine building on their resume...
 
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It may have nothing to do with oil changes. I just heard a tick for the first time starting mine up while in storage in very cold conditions. I'm thinking it may very well be that the header bolts have loosened a bit and need tightening. Ticking is a typical symptom of this issue. Will report back.
 
Is there a reason not to use the stock oil? It is a bit pricey (2x the price of Mobil 1 I used in my turbo car) but it is still cheap insurance. I know they pick oil based on who gives them a good price, but presumably all the testing was done with that oil so at least you know it meets the requirements. Also, be leery of oils that "exceed" specs rather than meeting them, it is fancy lawyer talk for it doesn't technically meet the reqs. Also the super slick "racing" oils that claim increased HP... I look at those the same way as really fancy brake fluid. I use ATE in my racecar even though it isn't quite as high of temp range as some of the exotic fluids, but it lasts a lot longer than the fancy stuff.
 
CaliMR said:
Is there a reason not to use the stock oil? It is a bit pricey (2x the price of Mobil 1 I used in my turbo car) but it is still cheap insurance. I know they pick oil based on who gives them a good price, but presumably all the testing was done with that oil so at least you know it meets the requirements. Also, be leery of oils that "exceed" specs rather than meeting them, it is fancy lawyer talk for it doesn't technically meet the reqs. Also the super slick "racing" oils that claim increased HP... I look at those the same way as really fancy brake fluid. I use ATE in my racecar even though it isn't quite as high of temp range as some of the exotic fluids, but it lasts a lot longer than the fancy stuff.
I'm running the stock Motorcraft 5W50 and have no plans on switching brands of oil. It's $80 for my local dealer to do the oil change. While the Motorcraft shears earlier than some oils I'm not running it more than probably 3,000 miles or a couple of track days between changes so I'm not worried about it. ATE brake fluid is very popular on this site and is what I'm using. I plan on switching back and fourth between the blue and amber.
 
I will be changing oil after every track day, before if it has been a while. Did it with the Evo, and I do it with the E30 though it is probably overkill on that car. Cheap insurance.

ATE blue is not street legal in FL, not sure if there are any other places, just throwing that out there in case anyone is in FL. It also stains the MC and lines, for anyone who hasn't used it, and it takes a couple flushes with amber to clear it out. Harder to tell at a glance if it is dirty. But it lasts forever.

This is what it looks like after a year of street driving and maybe 14 track days :eek:

ATE.jpg
 
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CaliMR said:
I will be changing oil after every track day, before if it has been a while. Did it with the Evo, and I do it with the E30 though it is probably overkill on that car. Cheap insurance.

ATE blue is not street legal in FL, not sure if there are any other places, just throwing that out there in case anyone is in FL. It also stains the MC and lines, for anyone who hasn't used it, and it takes a couple flushes with amber to clear it out. Harder to tell at a glance if it is dirty. But it lasts forever.

This is what it looks like after a year of street driving and maybe 14 track days :eek:

ATE.jpg

I have used ATE only once in a track-only Porsche & removed it after hearing reports at the track that it can turn jelly-like if overheated and clog calipers, lines, etc. badly.
There are quite a few posts on the ATE subject at the BMW forums (Sorry, I no longer have the links).
 
Ran ATE Super Blue for 18 track days last year in the Boss. Never had a spongy pedal. It's the most bullet proof fluid I've used. I've tried Brembo LCF600 (higher boiling point and double the cost and lasted half as long), Motul and AP racing 5.1. The Super Blue held up better than all of them.
 
Will have to look into the jelly problem. I used it no problem in my Evo and E30, as well as putting it in a couple off road vehicles (going downhill and sliding was killing normal fluid on our cattle ranch to the point the trucks would free roll at the bottom of one particular mountain). Thanks for the heads up.
 
I have not gotten my first oil change yet and have been diligently checking the oil levels every other day. Car now has 700 miles on it and oil level shows just below top hole on dipstick. I am experiencing a tapping/ticking on cold startup. It lasts about 10-15 minutes. I hear it most often when it's in the garage but it is audible outside too. Once warm, the noise appears to go away. It appears to be coming from left side (bank) (if standing in front of car). Any ideas?
 
BossTXB said:
I have not gotten my first oil change yet and have been diligently checking the oil levels every other day. Car now has 700 miles on it and oil level shows just below top hole on dipstick. I am experiencing a tapping/ticking on cold startup. It lasts about 10-15 minutes. I hear it most often when it's in the garage but it is audible outside too. Once warm, the noise appears to go away. It appears to be coming from left side (bank) (if standing in front of car). Any ideas?
Any ideas? It's normal.
 

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